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Old 11-24-2011, 08:03 PM   #1101
beefeater
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First brew with malt crushed on my new mill yesterday. A Crankandstein 2S.
I milled on the factory setting and had a suspicion this might be too fine but I gave it a go.

I was right.. Got veeery slow cirkulation. Had to pause and stir two times when I got channelling and small eruptions.

BUT, I got my highest mash-efficciency to date; 92.3%.
Did another thing for the first time too, a decoction where I pulled 6 liters of thick mash and boiled it for 30 minutes.

So it's hard to decide if the high efficciency can be attributed to the fine crush, the decoction or a new mash-schedule I never tried before. Probably a combination.

Anyone found a perfect gap on a two-roller mill for the Braumeister?

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Old 11-25-2011, 01:55 AM   #1102
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so great news i was able to talk my wife into allowing me to purchase a 20L BM. I do have a few questions for you guys if you wouldn't mind answering. i read the first portion of this thread as i was very interested in the BM but was not able to keep up after my wife first decline my efforts in purchasing one, so please excuse me if these questions have been answered already.

Im in CT. USA where would be the best place for me to order one? i know a few people ordered directly from a specific person and others have ordered from morebeer.

any big difference between the 20L and 50L other than size? i believe at one point i read that the 20L was having a hard time getting a good rolling boil

What is exactly included when the item is purchased? Chiller included? etc...

Are the BM's that are selling now, fixed the previous issues people have had with them? filter screen problems? pickup tube problems? and i believe some people had pump issues?

If you could do it all over again would you purchase the BM or a DIY electrical brew system?

issues i should look for or be aware of when using my BM? Positives to look forward to when using my BM?

I would like to thank you all in advance. i just want to be sure I'm making the right decision when I'm spending this kind of money.

cheers
ed

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Old 11-25-2011, 07:52 AM   #1103
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Originally Posted by forcabrew View Post
any big difference between the 20L and 50L other than size? i believe at one point i read that the 20L was having a hard time getting a good rolling boil

cheers
ed
Hi Ed,

Not a BM expert, but the 50L requires a 15 amp power outlet where the 20L does not. You can get a smaller malt pipe as an option, that will allow you to brew a smaller batch if using the 50L Model. Some people have gone with the 50L as it allows them more flexibility to do smaller or larger batches, and seems to suit those doing higher gravity beers as they end up with more finished product.

A number of those that have purchased the 20L version like these as they can brew more beers more often with smaller batch sizes.

I have seen the 'less than good' rolling boil - the unit I saw went from 98 - 99 degrees C (admittedly, the lid was off). Apparently this is by design, and not a fault of the unit. I guess it would not have been too hard to put a more powerful element into this when originally designing the unit if a stronger boil was what the manufacturer was seeking. The hood is supposed to assist the boil, as well as the jacket, though I know of some that have purchased the jacket, but then have not found it necessary to use this.

While on the topic of boil, I dont think the manufacturer would change the element to a stronger one in any case, as it would then mean conistency between BM's with old & new elements would not be maintained.

Matt
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:16 PM   #1104
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Had a brewday yesterday, and did this recipe for a Tripel from a couple of pages back:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/spei...ml#post3507029

The water volumes changed a bit as did the mash schedule, went with something like this:

Mash Schedule: Braumeister-20L,Farmhouse, Saison
Total Grain Weight: 14.75 lb
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 27.00 l of water and heat to 100.4 100.4 F 20 min
Beta-Protein Heat to 113.0 F over 7 min 113.0 F 30 min
Maltose Rest Heat to 131.0 F over 10 min 131.0 F 15 min
Saccarification Heat to 144.0 F over 7 min 144.0 F 30 min
Dextrine Rest Heat to 154.0 F over 6 min 154.0 F 15 min
Mash Out Heat to 165.0 F over 6 min 165.0 F 10 min

Sparge: Fly sparge with 1.25 gal water at 168.0 F
-

I malt conditioned all the grain, but it wasn't enough, by the time the mash was halfway through conversion the lack of flow was obvious. I paused the program, lifted the maltpipe to the first set of pegs from the top, and stirred the grain (stirred = stab and twist). This helped till the next pump rest, when it began to compact again. The use of rice hulls is a requirement when mashing 40% or more raw grain. It has been mentioned in this thread already, adding them could have gained me at least 10 more points. The gravity on the first 4L of sparge was over 1.055. I collected about 3gl sparge, one went back to the wort, the other 2 will be used for Speise, starters and yeast culturing. Lesson learned.

It was still an enjoyable brewday, I can't wait for the next one.
A few photos for your enjoyment:

Mash-In, 14.25lbs grain.

Start of Phase 1.


End of Phase 1.


End of Mash-Out.

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Old 11-28-2011, 05:48 PM   #1105
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...the lack of flow was obvious...
Pushing the system to the max with an insanely amount of malt and water. Me personally won't be taking the risk of seeing the pump packing it in...following the experiment with interest though.
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:02 PM   #1106
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I won't be doing that everytime but it is good to push the envelope. It was fortunate the mash didn't experience geysers as others have mentioned. I'm looking forward to tweaking the recipe and method till everything jives as best it can.

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Old 11-29-2011, 01:49 PM   #1107
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Originally Posted by beefeater View Post
Anyone found a perfect gap on a two-roller mill for the Braumeister?
Bumping this in hopes of getting this question answered... and my BM hasn't even arrived yet! Think I'm excited?
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:44 AM   #1108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Getafix View Post
Had a brewday yesterday, and did this recipe for a Tripel from a couple of pages back:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/spei...ml#post3507029

The water volumes changed a bit as did the mash schedule, went with something like this:

Mash Schedule: Braumeister-20L,Farmhouse, Saison
Total Grain Weight: 14.75 lb
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Mash In Add 27.00 l of water and heat to 100.4 100.4 F 20 min
Beta-Protein Heat to 113.0 F over 7 min 113.0 F 30 min
Maltose Rest Heat to 131.0 F over 10 min 131.0 F 15 min
Saccarification Heat to 144.0 F over 7 min 144.0 F 30 min
Dextrine Rest Heat to 154.0 F over 6 min 154.0 F 15 min
Mash Out Heat to 165.0 F over 6 min 165.0 F 10 min

Sparge: Fly sparge with 1.25 gal water at 168.0 F
-

I malt conditioned all the grain, but it wasn't enough, by the time the mash was halfway through conversion the lack of flow was obvious. I paused the program, lifted the maltpipe to the first set of pegs from the top, and stirred the grain (stirred = stab and twist). This helped till the next pump rest, when it began to compact again. The use of rice hulls is a requirement when mashing 40% or more raw grain. It has been mentioned in this thread already, adding them could have gained me at least 10 more points. The gravity on the first 4L of sparge was over 1.055. I collected about 3gl sparge, one went back to the wort, the other 2 will be used for Speise, starters and yeast culturing. Lesson learned.

It was still an enjoyable brewday, I can't wait for the next one.
A few photos for your enjoyment:

Mash-In, 14.25lbs grain.

Start of Phase 1.


End of Phase 1.


End of Mash-Out.
Looks pretty gnarly but I love the idea of using a lot of raw adjuncts in a farmhouse ale. I just finished reading Markowski's book. While I don't think any of his examples included quite this much raw grain, I'm still intrigued. When I (finally) receive my BM, I'd love to do a few side-by-side brews with you (virtually, of course) with 1 variable between the two of us (aside from the sourced water) to see what we can come up with.
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:25 PM   #1109
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Great thread. I'm considering purchasing a 20L in the near future and have a couple of questions. I seem to recall some discussion earlier about whole hops but this thread has gotten so long I can't find what I'm looking for. So I apologize for any repeated questions.

1. Has anyone tried using the malt tube to boil whole hops in and if so how did it work out?

2. I know this setup doesn't require a brew stand in the conventional sense but I like seeing the ingenuity people have in devising their setups. I've seen a lot already but anybody got some great pics of how they setup pumps to a plate chiller, aeration stones, transfer systems to the fermenter, sparging etc. This system seems to redefine the conventional setups and I'm trying to get my head around it as I design my brewery.

Thanks

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Old 11-30-2011, 02:22 PM   #1110
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Great thread. I'm considering purchasing a 20L in the near future and have a couple of questions. I seem to recall some discussion earlier about whole hops but this thread has gotten so long I can't find what I'm looking for. So I apologize for any repeated questions.

1. Has anyone tried using the malt tube to boil whole hops in and if so how did it work out?

2. I know this setup doesn't require a brew stand in the conventional sense but I like seeing the ingenuity people have in devising their setups. I've seen a lot already but anybody got some great pics of how they setup pumps to a plate chiller, aeration stones, transfer systems to the fermenter, sparging etc. This system seems to redefine the conventional setups and I'm trying to get my head around it as I design my brewery.

Thanks
RE: #1= Wow. What a great idea. I don't see how it wouldn't work, i.e., how the boil could harm the malt tube. I hasten to add that I don't own a Braumeister (yet) and have no practical knowledge of using the unit.
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