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Old 04-13-2011, 11:46 PM   #101
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Yambor44, congrats on your new Braumeister. Before mine was delivered I contacted Speidel with some questions and they quickly got back to me. The truly seem like a very reputable company and I'm sure they'll take care of any of your issues. Apparently you got you plug wired. If you are using a range/oven 4 prong outlet and plug you will find a black hot wire, a red hot wire, a white neutral and a bare ground. The black and red wires each carry 120volts. Because they are out of phase each acts as the others neutral. The white neutral acts in tandem with the supplied 120 volts to supply just 120volts to run things such as a clock, timer, electronic controls etc. To wire the Speidel cord you do not use the white neutral. It's important that the yellow/green wire in the Speidel cord is wired to the bare copper ground. The other 2 wires in the Speidel cord get wire to the 120 volt lines. You can test your cord with a volt meter. With one probe in the bottom slot of the Speidel plug place the other probe in one of the top slots. You should get 120 volts. Move to the other top slot and you should still get 120 Volts. If you place both probes in one each of the top slots you should get 240 volts. The Speidel plug looks similar to a computer/printer plug but is a little different design made of high output heating appliances. It is more heat resistant. It will fit in a computer power inlet however a computer plug will not fit into the power inlet on the Braumeister. That's interesting that you get fabric screens while I got stainless. Why not all the same? I believe a GFCI needs both a neutral and a ground to sense the short. You could always put a GFCI circuit breaker in the box, but they are quite expensive. I'm not using one. I might change my mind after that first 240 volt jolt, if I survive. My heating elements move up and down quite a bit. You might not have any problems getting a tube between them. Post how everything works out. Good luck

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Old 04-14-2011, 12:51 AM   #102
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hfk2,

I actually just have the stove plug. As Wyzazz suggested I wired the green/yellow to the top (ground) prong and the blue and black to each side. I removed the bottom prong and left it out altogether.


I do have a GFCI breaker and not outlet. I am bring some water (about 6 gallons) up to 149 (65* C). Water started at 25 c and is now at 55 c in 14 minutes. Pumps kicked on and off as they are supposed to to purge the air. MAN, how quiet!! Not sure yet how to cancel this once it gets to temp as I don't plan on mashing tonight. Also, if I only want to mash at 152 for 60 minutes, can't I do that? Manual?? I am still reading! Jumped the gun to try this out as I was expecting it to trip the breaker. But maybe everyone thought I had a GFCI outlet and not breaker? Thats why I ended up with one of these...no electrical knowledge!

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Old 04-14-2011, 12:53 AM   #103
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WOW again! I just realized the pump(s) is running while the water is heating. I couldn't even hear it!! Decided to put the crooked lid on to see if that helps the temps climb faster!! Whoop, its beeping at me! 77 to 149 in 19 minutes with the lid off for 18!

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Old 04-14-2011, 12:55 AM   #104
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Ahh, figured out how to abort. Press up/down arrows simultaneously and then abort. Pump(s) is off, water is hot. Granted it's only 6 or so gallons but I am HAPPY so far with the efficiency.

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Old 04-14-2011, 01:20 AM   #105
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Well, the only challenge I can see thus far is that the 50L model leaves about 3 gallons of water behind. I'm afraid to fashion one of the diptubes like hfk2 did as my elements are running just at the spouts hole. I could split them apart but I'm afraid it may hit at some point and there goes the element.

hfk2's


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Old 04-14-2011, 01:33 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yambor44 View Post
Well, the only challenge I can see thus far is that the 50L model leaves about 3 gallons of water behind. I'm afraid to fashion one of the diptubes like hfk2 did as my elements are running just at the spouts hole. I could split them apart but I'm afraid it may hit at some point and there goes the element.
Maybe you could fashion a diptube like hfk2's and then put some silicone tubing over it so no metal is touching the heating elements? Maybe it's not even needed? I'd drop them a line to see if it's going to cause any issues.

Glad you've got it running and like it so far! I can't wait to build something similar using some of the parts you sent to me.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 04-14-2011, 01:47 AM   #107
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yambor44, Great you have the plug right and you figured it out, up and down arrows to cancel. Hold down arrow to enter manual mode. In program mode program first phase 152 degrees and time for 60 minutes, for the rest of the phases enter 0 for time. Kettle will heat up to temp, then beep to tell you to insert malt pipe, screens and malt. During mashing the pump shuts down for a little while and the display indicate it's resting. At end of mash it beeps to tell you to remove malt pipe to clarify. You'll notice that while waiting for you to raise malt pipe to drain the pump shut off but the heater maintains temperature. To see if you can fashion a drain pipe see if you can insert a 1/2" dowel or 1/2" copper pipe above that heating coil into the hole. You have way more coils than me, and mine don't come up to the drain hole. At least you got up and working, now brew something.

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Old 04-14-2011, 02:58 AM   #108
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Quote:
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yambor44, Great you have the plug right and you figured it out, up and down arrows to cancel. Hold down arrow to enter manual mode. In program mode program first phase 152 degrees and time for 60 minutes, for the rest of the phases enter 0 for time. Kettle will heat up to temp, then beep to tell you to insert malt pipe, screens and malt. During mashing the pump shuts down for a little while and the display indicate it's resting. At end of mash it beeps to tell you to remove malt pipe to clarify. You'll notice that while waiting for you to raise malt pipe to drain the pump shut off but the heater maintains temperature. To see if you can fashion a drain pipe see if you can insert a 1/2" dowel or 1/2" copper pipe above that heating coil into the hole. You have way more coils than me, and mine don't come up to the drain hole. At least you got up and working, now brew something.
Did you just slip a half inch copper into your?
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:24 AM   #109
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Or you could forget the bulkhead/diptube combo and try to T off of the pump lines and drain from that side/bottom drain, just a thought.

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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 04-14-2011, 12:19 PM   #110
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Or you could forget the bulkhead/diptube combo and try to T off of the pump lines and drain from that side/bottom drain, just a thought.
Now there's an idea.
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