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Old 11-02-2011, 01:05 PM   #1031
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Originally Posted by j3r3my View Post
Is it possible to run a breumeister off a 110 to 220 Converter?. I have no access to 220 where I live.

Thanks.
I would strongly recommend against it for a couple of reasons.

First, as is stated in the product descriptions which you linked "Caution:
(1) This voltage converter may not work properly [...] some items with heating element such as coffeemakers, espresso/capuccino makers, percolators, heating pads, toasters, toaster ovens, rice cookers, tea kettles, hot plates, cloth irons, steamers etc."

...which is exactly what the braumeister is, a large hot plate essentially. So basically these would not be guaranteed to work in the first place.

Furthermore, you would need to buy a unit that is at LEAST 2000W, since that is the power requirement of just the heating element. If they can be used continuously at 80% you are looking at needing a 3000W supply. The money you spend on this unit plus the extra power you would be using might help offset the cost of hiring an electrician to add a 220v circuit and outlet to your residence.

No dryer in your place? No way to perhaps make an extension cord?
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:21 PM   #1032
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Originally Posted by Redstag View Post
The european 220 wire is quite small in diameter and the US 220 plug is made to accept a much larger gauge wire.
So I figured I would need to beef up the euro wire so the US plug could be attached and secured safely.
Wow, that was much more involved than what I did! Mine came with a rubber grommet that I just fed the braumeister wire through. I like the pictures and description; it will be useful for anyone who hasn't done the conversion before.
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:15 PM   #1033
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Default No sparge brewing with Braumeister

Just an update for those of you interested:
Even though I do not think that BM can do a true no sparge mash becuase of
recirculation, I tried to avoid sparge:
I brewed Schwartzbier.
I found, that I can fill the kettle with 27-28L - that is about max you can
do to avoid the level outside the malt pipe overflow.
My grain bill was 5kg.
I did a step mash with double decoction - first decoction between 131-144 and second between 144-158dg.
The mash was thin about 5:1.
The preboil volume was only about 23L(the grain held about 5L of H2O), so I actually sparged with just 2L to get to preboil ~25L and post boil about 21L
My efficiency was 84% -- too high for no sparge
I ended up with 14Plato - and had to dilute down to 12P.
will see how the beer comes out.

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Old 11-02-2011, 03:22 PM   #1034
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Wow... a few things--

-You did sparge, when you added the 2L post mash, so your post title is a bit odd/puzzling. If you did not add the 2L post mash, you would have achieved your no sparge brew!

-The Braumeister is indeed a no-sparge system as it comes out of the box. You can choose to sparge, but it is not necessary.

-Recirculation is not sparging, it is exactly as it states-- moving (recirculating) the wort/liquor that is already present-- that is it.

-When a brewer does a decoction mash, higher efficiency is generally achieved.

But, good on you. Are you doing a true lager Scharwzbier, or using an ale yeast? If Lager yeast, how are you managing fermentation temps?

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Old 11-02-2011, 04:07 PM   #1035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3r3my View Post
Is it possible to run a breumeister off a 110 to 220 Converter?. I have no access to 220 where I live.

Thanks.
Buy/build a welder extension cord and adapt the Braumeister cord to connect to it. Your dryer should be 220v.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:40 PM   #1036
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I don't see anyone mention the possibility of using the stove outlet rather than a dryer outlet? I would prefer to brew in the kitchen and pulled out the electric stove to find an outlet that looked just the same as the one used for my dryer in the basement.

Thoughts?

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Old 11-02-2011, 07:49 PM   #1037
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Default no sparge ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberbackpacker View Post
Wow... a few things--

-You did sparge, when you added the 2L post mash, so your post title is a bit odd/puzzling. If you did not add the 2L post mash, you would have achieved your no sparge brew!

-The Braumeister is indeed a no-sparge system as it comes out of the box. You can choose to sparge, but it is not necessary.

-Recirculation is not sparging, it is exactly as it states-- moving (recirculating) the wort/liquor that is already present-- that is it.

-When a brewer does a decoction mash, higher efficiency is generally achieved.

But, good on you. Are you doing a true lager Scharwzbier, or using an ale yeast? If Lager yeast, how are you managing fermentation temps?

Your point well taken.
My point of view was this:
So how different is wart flow through the grain as opposed to water flow through the grain and is there any data on difference in extraction of tannins?
Gordon Strong, Jamil and others recommend no sparge in order to achieve really malty beer.
What I am concerned about is that the recirculation causes flow through the grain bed, which may extract also more tannins.

But, you are right, as an experiment, it was not conducted well:
1. I should not have sparged
2. I should have only diluted

I am typically using WY 2124 for my Schwartz
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:52 PM   #1038
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Originally Posted by NWMushroom View Post
I don't see anyone mention the possibility of using the stove outlet rather than a dryer outlet? I would prefer to brew in the kitchen and pulled out the electric stove to find an outlet that looked just the same as the one used for my dryer in the basement.

Thoughts?
It'll work just fine, no worries.
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:21 PM   #1039
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Bumping up to say I look forward to see and hear RobMeister's review on the new 20 litre baby. I am having now Aventinus Weizen Eisbock 12%...peace baby...

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Old 11-05-2011, 01:20 AM   #1040
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So how different is wart flow through the grain as opposed to water flow through the grain and is there any data on difference in extraction of tannins?
Gordon Strong, Jamil and others recommend no sparge in order to achieve really malty beer.
What I am concerned about is that the recirculation causes flow through the grain bed, which may extract also more tannins.
First, as a bit of an anecdote. It is a matter of common practice that professional and home brewers stir the mash... you are doing the same thing with the mash liquor in recirculation (for all intents and purposes) as happens to the mash liquor from stirring.

Very (VERY) simply, the big difference between recirculation with wort versus (fly) sparging with water is that when you are recirculating your mash is that your starch/sugar levels are equalized throughout the mash and the pH remains (essentially) constant. When you start to (fly) sparge, your sugar/water ratio starts to drastically change, and your pH level begins to increase. That is why it is essential to monitor pH and/or gravity when fly sparging so you do not extract tannins.

You may have noticed, that I indicated fly-sparging above. Batch sparging does not (in general) risk the extraction of tannins that could happen with fly-sparging if you sparge too much while fly sparging because again of the measured volumes of sparge water and equalization of the mash.

Lastly, you are correct that many people suggest a no-sparge (full volume no sparge that is) for enhanced maltiness, and I agree.

The threat of any extraction of tannins through recirculation is just not an issue.

Gut luck!

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