Newest Threads

clasley · 10-21-2011, 12:27 AM

Just checked my notes. The gravity at the end of the first mash was 8.6 brix. The gravity after the second mash was 17.4 brix. Again I split the 16 lb grain bill into two 8 lb mashes and didn't sparge so looking at the numbers I would say both mashes contributed roughly equally.

-Chris

bullsneck · 10-21-2011, 10:45 AM

Has anyone here measured their Braumeisters with a ruler with water in it? So they can ascertain how much water they have by simply chucking a stainless steel ruler in and taking a reading. My old kettle used to be 1.13cm to the litre but I have no idea what a Braumeister 20L is per litre.

**Yambor44** · 10-21-2011, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clasley

Just checked my notes. The gravity at the end of the first mash was 8.6 brix. The gravity after the second mash was 17.4 brix. Again I split the 16 lb grain bill into two 8 lb mashes and didn't sparge so looking at the numbers I would say both mashes contributed roughly equally.

-Chris

Good to know Chris since I may end up with a 20 before long.

beefeater · 10-22-2011, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bullsneck

Has anyone here measured their Braumeisters with a ruler with water in it? So they can ascertain how much water they have by simply chucking a stainless steel ruler in and taking a reading. My old kettle used to be 1.13cm to the litre but I have no idea what a Braumeister 20L is per litre.

Close enough to 1 liter pr cm. I just use a metering stick when measuring the contents of it. Dumped exactly 10 liters in there and measured once. Don't remember exactly what the reading was but I figured it was close enough. As long as I allways use the stick it'll be consistent anyways.

bach · 10-22-2011, 01:53 PM

I am thinking about brewing lager with no sparge technique.
So, I probably can't do a true no sparge mash on BM ?
Because of recirculation ?
Or does it matter? Would it still leach tannins, etc
I have never done no sparge mash - lot of brewers recommend it
to obtain the true malty flavor.

Have you guys done experiments with no sparge on BM ?
And if I try that I need to use more water.
For my last version of Czech lager I use 4.3kg of malt.
If the grain absorbs roughly 4l of water, I would need to use
about 29l of water to end up with preboil 25l and post boil 22l.
Is it too much water? Is it over the top of malt pipe ? The malt pipe is 36cm tall..

Bach

bullsneck · 10-23-2011, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beefeater

Close enough to 1 liter pr cm. I just use a metering stick when measuring the contents of it. Dumped exactly 10 liters in there and measured once. Don't remember exactly what the reading was but I figured it was close enough. As long as I allways use the stick it'll be consistent anyways.

Yeah, did a quick check and got 1.1cm per litre.

DeGarre · 10-23-2011, 09:05 AM

Finally putting up some BM brewing vids in youtube, linking them to my boring recipe log blog -

http://tavastlandbrewing.wordpress.com/2011/10/23/fumbling-my-way-through-a-brewday/

Boring stuff, nothing like Rob's. If nothing else, at least you'll see what the footprint is

**Yambor44** · 10-24-2011, 11:04 AM

Awesome videos! Thanks fr taking the time to put these up. I noticed your hops in the bag looked a little full or tight. I have noticed when I bag mine up too tight when they swell the wort doesn't move as freely around them all and my utilization is lower.

Great job on the gravity. I thought I heard you mention you were chilling to 21c. If so, by the time you took your sample of wort for the reading, it could have been 70-71 degrees which would have given you one more point to 1.055.

And last but not least....I gotta get me one of those oven mits in the second video!

Thanks again!!

Rob

**limulus** · 10-24-2011, 12:45 PM

Very nice videos. Do you guys know if they have made any improvements to their packaging? I know that all the damaged parts were replaced, but I hate to drop $2k on something only to have it damaged when I receive it. It would not be so bad if you did not have to wait a month to receive it and then a couple of additional weeks for replacement parts.

I will be removing a wall in my basement in February and adding a bar. This is still the system I want.

**Yambor44** · 10-24-2011, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clasley

I did a reiterated mash this past weekend on my SBM20L. The total grain bill was around 16 lbs split into two 8 lb mashes. I manually controlled the SBM and did a single infusion for both mashes. At the end of the first mash I emptied the malt tube, rinsed it off and started the second mash using the runoff from the first. I had more issues with the second mash with some grain getting into the pump and a geyser but worked it out. It didn't add much time to my day and was quite a bit easier than I expected.

On the copper hood - I've used it the past few sessions and have to say I like it. I get a much better boil and a consistent 10%/hour boil-off using it. My only remaining concern is DMS. Oh and fermcap-s and hop bags are pretty much a necessity to prevent foaming and boil overs.

-Chris

Chris,

When you manually control the BM, does the unit do an automatic pump rest or did you do that manually as well? If so what was your time frame to rest and for how long?

Thanks,

Rob