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Old 04-02-2010, 11:36 PM   #1
Datchew
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Default solder-less copper bits and solder types

I do the 3-tier keggle all-grain gravity thing with the cornys and the fridge. Been there done that but I'm planning to make some hardware changes and despite this being mashed out heaps of times, I can't seem to find the topic.

Somewhere I read where folks assembled their internal pickup tubes made of copper bits but they did not solder them together. For disassembly and cleaning purposes I think.

Well, i'm about to get soldering and I was thinking about skipping it.

Anybody just stack them up and if so, any complaints?



Also, I'm putting a T-fitting in my MLT for a stainless braided loop. It's 0.5" copper T-fitting and I can't find any braided line that is true 3/4 ,or 5/8 or whatever it is. None of them will fit on the t-fitting. Where do I get the large braided stainless?

THanks.

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Old 04-02-2010, 11:58 PM   #2
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If you're going to skip the solder, you might squeeze the pipe ends in a vice or big channel locks just enough so it takes some force to slide the pieces together. The last thing you want is to be stirring your mash and see a copper elbow float by.

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Old 04-03-2010, 01:07 AM   #3
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The least bit of leak in a siphon tube will allow air in and will break the siphon.
If you are just talking about a siphon tube... I'd solder it. If you are using a false bottom, you can use a compression fitting to attach the siphon tube so it can be removed.

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Old 04-03-2010, 01:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Datchew View Post
Where do I get the large braided stainless?

THanks.
Water heater supply line is a pretty large braid and would easily fit on 1/2 copper. Available at most large home centers...HD or Lowes.

+1 above, your syphon tube in a kettle or mash tun needs to be leak proof to get the final runnings. For a MT, if the tubing is already on the bottom of the tun, then no big deal.
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Old 04-03-2010, 01:54 AM   #5
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Yes, a true siphon without breaks is a wonderful thing to smote the dead space factor. A siphon with a mashout makes me so happy I almost giggle (in a very manly non-girly manner.)
I drained 8.2 gallons of sparge water through 22 lbs of grain last night in under 6 minutes and had a big dumb grin on my face. (batch sparger with stainless braid... a small, old, beat up one)

Guess i'll go ahead and solder it and stop being lazy.

Thanks for letting me bounce the thoughts off you guys.

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Old 04-03-2010, 01:19 PM   #6
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Yeah I totally think you should solder diptubes, make sure its completely water/air tight.
As for returns, I configured some copper pieces for whirlpooling, and did not solder, but as mentioned tightened the fittings enough that they would slip in and out. This way I can attach longer or shorter fittings according to my batch size and/or water level. They work great this way.

So in other words, solder it if its outbound to the pump. Don't (or do if ya want) if its inbound to the kettle.

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Old 04-04-2010, 02:33 AM   #7
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A 5/8" compression fitting fits standard 1/2" copper pipe. That's what I used for easy disassembly and tight fitting results. Soldered up a pickup tube from standard 1/2 pipe and fittings for the MLT.

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Old 04-04-2010, 02:40 AM   #8
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I have copper pickup tubes, unsoldered, and have not had any problems draining the MLT and Boil Kettle. Maybe I'm just lucky. I like them unsoldered cuz it makes them easy to disassemble and clean.

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