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Old 09-24-2009, 08:39 PM   #31
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Gas heat is also easy to wire for control via PID. In fact I would argue it is just as easy aselectric, now that I've figured it out. For $190 you can wire up a PID controlled automatic firing control system for your existing burner.

Standing Pilot light burner with control $192.74
HONEYWELL VR8200A2124 24 Vac Dual Standing Pilot Gas Valve $61.99
1/4" OD Aluminum Pilot Tubing $10.00 Local Hardware 5'
Pilot bracket assembly - Honeywell Q314A6094 B Bracket $16.16
Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2” probe, M16 Thread $29.95
M16 flanged nut $3.69 McMaster-Carr 91005A039
Universal 1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller $41.95
3-way red LED Selector switch (burner ON/OFF/AUTO) $29.00
This is intriguing. So you install a pilot light and honeywell valve, and this connects to the PID. Then the RTD sensor is installed in the mashtun and connected to the PID. You set the temperature you want on the PID and as the temp fluctuates in the mash (as detected by the sensor), it automatically opens the valve on the honeywell and the burner fires up. Is that essentially correct? Also, how is the strength of the flame adjusted in this system? thanks!
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Old 09-25-2009, 12:43 AM   #32
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This is intriguing. So you install a pilot light and honeywell valve, and this connects to the PID. Then the RTD sensor is installed in the mashtun and connected to the PID. You set the temperature you want on the PID and as the temp fluctuates in the mash (as detected by the sensor), it automatically opens the valve on the honeywell and the burner fires up. Is that essentially correct? Also, how is the strength of the flame adjusted in this system? thanks!
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/gas-...ummies-116632/
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:10 AM   #33
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Sawdust, once again....you rock!

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Old 09-25-2009, 02:13 AM   #34
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This is intriguing. So you install a pilot light and honeywell valve, and this connects to the PID. Then the RTD sensor is installed in the mashtun and connected to the PID. You set the temperature you want on the PID and as the temp fluctuates in the mash (as detected by the sensor), it automatically opens the valve on the honeywell and the burner fires up. Is that essentially correct? Also, how is the strength of the flame adjusted in this system? thanks!
Manually with a valve.
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:15 PM   #35
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Manually with a valve.
Hmmm, sounds good up to that point. If the whole idea is to have this system automated, adjusting flame strength with a manual valve seems kind of counter productive. I guess as long as you keep the flame always on a lower setting it would be fine. I would be concerned about scorching while your away pouring a beer or doing whatever other preps.
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:16 PM   #36
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Thanks a bunch!
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:18 PM   #37
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I am not yet setup with this. But I will have my burners adjusted and never have to change them. Basically, HLT full blast : MLT lowest possible : BK dialed in for a nice rolling boil, likely close to full blast.

I see no need to adjust those settings, I don't with my system now, I just have to bend down and manually fire up the burners and I have no PID control.

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Old 09-25-2009, 02:25 PM   #38
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I am not yet setup with this. But I will have my burners adjusted and never have to change them. Basically, HLT full blast : MLT lowest possible : BK dialed in for a nice rolling boil, likely close to full blast.

I see no need to adjust those settings, I don't with my system now, I just have to bend down and manually fire up the burners and I have no PID control.
Got ya. that makes sense. sorry if I seem dense; this is my first attempt at putting together a rig and I am not real familiar with gas systems like this.
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:36 PM   #39
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No no no. It is way better to ask tons of questions and have a good handle on things. Ask away!!!

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Old 09-25-2009, 07:00 PM   #40
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Thanks! It would be helpful to see an image or brief description of how to hook the honeywell valve up to the existing burner (i.e, what fittings etc.). In my case, I am only planning on being automated for the MLT to do a direct fire RIMS, the HLT I'll control manually. To start with I would just pump strike water from the HLT to the MT, and then be able to set the PID and let it recirculate and heat (as appropriate) the mash while I go do other stuff. I could then come back and heat the sparge water up in the HLT to whatever I need and switch the pump to batch sparge (something I have never done BTW, I've been a fly sparger for 12 years now)

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