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Old 07-29-2008, 02:54 PM   #21
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Bobby, those seals aren't round o-rings. There kind of flat sleeves that fit in there and seal around the plug. I don't know if round o-rings would work or not. I kind of doubt they would work as intended.

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Old 07-29-2008, 04:25 PM   #22
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Bobby, it's not for the high flow rate that I would consider those more expensive QDs. It's for the same reason that jcryan2 mentioned in post #13.

I have a thermowell in a 1/2 inch pipe T that I want to connect to the mash tun valve via QD. It can't be attached to a barb, obviously. If the barb on the female socket will unscrew and if the fitting is 3/8th or 1/2 inch NPT or NPST, then I can adapt it to the temperature probe pipe T fitting.

If the barb won't unscrew and/or the threads aren't NPT or NPST, then I'd be forced to use an incompatible QD on the mash tun valve, and I'd rather avoid that.

I may have a solution anyway. These fittings are supposed to be compatible with Parker Moldmate also, just like the compatible ones that MC sells, but they are a lot more expensive: Industrial Mold Coolant Quick Disconnects - they have male and female plugs and they have sockets with and without barbs. They are more expensive, but I'd only need some of the female plugs that MC doesn't sell, and one of the female pipe thread sockets.

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Old 07-29-2008, 05:03 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Lil' Sparky View Post
Bobby, those seals aren't round o-rings. There kind of flat sleeves that fit in there and seal around the plug. I don't know if round o-rings would work or not. I kind of doubt they would work as intended.
When I initially looked at these, I thought that the seal was made on the face of the male plug. I'm not saying I know an Oring would work, but it's probably worth a try since they're readily available.
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Old 07-29-2008, 05:07 PM   #24
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Stupid question: I see a lot of discussion about using quick disconnects, but I don't see where I would use them in my own brewing setup. Everyone raves about them. What are they for?

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Old 07-29-2008, 06:26 PM   #25
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They are used to make quick connections between valves and pumps and plate chillers, etc., on an advanced brew rig. Search for one of the Brutus 10 threads and check out the pictures and you'll see. Korndog, Bobby M, Chimone, Mrbowenz, and quite a few other people have posted pics in threads and in their galleries that will help clarify the use of these quick disconnects. Once you see what they can do for you, you'll want them too. Also, look at the moer advanced commercially available brew rigs like the ones that More Beer and Sabco sell for more examples.

Here is a good thread -- Brutus Ten ???? -- You'll have to go through quite a few pages to get to the pics. But it's worth it.

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Old 07-29-2008, 07:02 PM   #26
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For me it's about using a single pump and pair of hose to pump liquids from any vessel or apparatus to any other.

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Old 07-30-2008, 02:09 AM   #27
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Marco Rubber might be able to help you with those Moldmate seals Sparky if you give them a call.

Did either of you have a chance to look at one of your coollant sockets and see if the barb is removable?
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:32 AM   #28
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Thanks for another possible source. I'll check it out.

The barb on the female sleeve is removable. I'm not certain on the thread size, but I think it's 3/8 NPT.

BTW - McMaster has sleeves with threaded connections. Check out part #6536K23 or 6536K22.

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Old 07-30-2008, 02:49 AM   #29
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Thanks for another possible source. I'll check it out.

The barb on the female sleeve is removable. I'm not certain on the thread size, but I think it's 3/8 NPT. I can swing by the h/w store tomorrow and check for sure.
No need to check on that Sparky. Thank you. Now that I know it is removable I'm practically certain I can adapt it. It's unlikely to be a non-standard thread size. Now I'll just go ahead and order the parts from McMaster and save myself a bunch of money over the high flow series.
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:11 AM   #30
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When I initially looked at these, I thought that the seal was made on the face of the male plug. I'm not saying I know an Oring would work, but it's probably worth a try since they're readily available.
Yep, I think you're right about how it seals. This is what the seals look like though. I doubt an o-ring would work. If I can't find a replacement, I can probably make this one work by just turning it around. This side is fine, so it should seal OK. The other side is really buggered up. I wish I knew how it happened so I can avoid it. If turning it around doesn't work, stuffing several o-rings in there may do the job.

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