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Old 12-07-2010, 04:54 PM   #21
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+1 Is there a reason why nobody makes an affordable self priming magnetic drive pump?
Its mostly because with a mag-drive, when you make it into a self primer then you are in essence making the pump into a suction pump instead of a transfer pump. In a mag-drive pump, when operating properly, the impeller spins on its shaft in a neutral position between the rear housing and the front housing. When you create a restriction on the inlet side of the pump the impeller gets sucked forward against its thrust washer. Depending on how bad the restriction is it can operate in this fashion for ever...or more often then not the impeller starts cutting into the thrust washer and will either wear it out and start contact the front housing....wear the front of the impeller out...or will jam itself and decouple the mag-drive system. There's just too many problems for most mfg's to deal with when a positive displacement pump will outperform us in these fields....

-Walter
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Old 12-07-2010, 04:59 PM   #22
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I have all ready recieved two calls today from people who said they saw these postings on this forum Glad i could help you guys...Not sure if they were memebers of the forum or not and I'm sorry but i forgot the one that gave me his name and i forgot to ask the other for his name, but it was nice talking with the two of you

-Walter

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Old 04-04-2011, 02:20 PM   #23
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Whats the best way to clean these march pumps? After a brew day.

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Old 04-04-2011, 02:30 PM   #24
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Whats the best way to clean these march pumps? After a brew day.
Well, i would imagine you guys are sanitizing them after your brew sessions to keep "stuff" from growing inside between brewrings??? But the very minimum i would run the pumps on a batch of warm clean water for about 5min to make sure yo get all the sugars out from between the shaft and impeller.

-Walter
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:36 PM   #25
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I circulate a PBW mixture through the pump for a few minutes and then follow with warm water.

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Old 04-04-2011, 09:16 PM   #26
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If you are getting cavitation then its usually cause by a couple things:
1. you have a restriction on the inlet side of the pump...either the line is too small or the fittings/elbows/valves etc are restricting the flow rate to the pump.
2. you have air trapped inside the pump. Turn the pump off for a second and let gravity try and purge any air in the pump head out...make sure the outlet is the highest point of the pump.
3. you may be sucking air either from a vortex being created inside your tank or a loose connection of the supply line.[/COLOR]

-Walter
Hi Walter. Very cool that you're doing some Q&A.

I have an 809 and have been having trouble pumping boiling water. It works fine otherwise. I've had some people on the forum tell me that it was likely cavitation causing my problem. If that's true, I suspect this is due to the restriction caused by my dip tube. I plan to do a test run without it, so.....

Asuming the pump is primed, there is no restriction to flow, and the pump is not sucking "air" anywhere, it should be able to pump 212F water right? What if the water is at a state of rolling boil and water vapor is bubbling up pretty rapidly inside the vessel being pumped out? Could this perharps cause water vapor to get trapped in the pump head since I am not using a pressurized system? If I have the pump oriented correctly and water vapor does make it into the pump head while in operation, will the vapor continue up and out of the pump head or does the pump need to be shut off for this to happen? Lastly, you mentioned that higher temps adversely affect the magnets on the drive. Although I'm sure that I will never exceed the 250F ceiling, will repeated / prolonged exposures to boiling temperatures reduce the life and or efficiency of the magnets? If the magnets do get "damaged" can just the magnet drives be replaced (part number would be great) or does the whole pump head need replaced at that point?

Thanks in Advance.....again it's very cool of you to help us out with these issues.
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:44 PM   #27
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the reason why I asked what to use to clean the pumps was because what i really want to know is, is PBW safe to run through the pumps. Obviously some of you do it but is there any long term effects from using it?

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Old 04-05-2011, 12:46 PM   #28
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Forgot to ask my question, i have 2 new march pumps and I'm about to install them. Is there a preferred orientation of how i should place the inlet or outlet?

Or will installing them in any direction do just as good?

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Old 04-05-2011, 03:12 PM   #29
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@pola0502ds here ya go ...

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Originally Posted by WalterAtMarchPump View Post
As far as priming the pumps go, basic rule is this: Keep the pump below the liquid level and when you open the supply valve the fluid should flood the pump naturally with just gravity. The discharge of the pump should be at the highest point of the pump if possible. If you have the pump mounted horizontally, then the inlet will be on your left and outlet will be on your right when you are facing the pump. If mounted vertically then the outlet pointing to the ceiling is the best way.
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:36 PM   #30
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Hi Walter. Very cool that you're doing some Q&A.

I have an 809 and have been having trouble pumping boiling water. It works fine otherwise. I've had some people on the forum tell me that it was likely cavitation causing my problem. If that's true, I suspect this is due to the restriction caused by my dip tube. I plan to do a test run without it, so.....

Asuming the pump is primed, there is no restriction to flow, and the pump is not sucking "air" anywhere, it should be able to pump 212F water right? What if the water is at a state of rolling boil and water vapor is bubbling up pretty rapidly inside the vessel being pumped out? Could this perharps cause water vapor to get trapped in the pump head since I am not using a pressurized system? If I have the pump oriented correctly and water vapor does make it into the pump head while in operation, will the vapor continue up and out of the pump head or does the pump need to be shut off for this to happen? Lastly, you mentioned that higher temps adversely affect the magnets on the drive. Although I'm sure that I will never exceed the 250F ceiling, will repeated / prolonged exposures to boiling temperatures reduce the life and or efficiency of the magnets? If the magnets do get "damaged" can just the magnet drives be replaced (part number would be great) or does the whole pump head need replaced at that point?

Thanks in Advance.....again it's very cool of you to help us out with these issues.
If you are trying to pump liquid at a rolling boil then you may run into problems with air getting trapped in the pump head during the pumping phase. I would turn off your burners and let the liquid settle down so you dont have any more bubbling. The pumps can handle liquids up to 250*F but not with air in them. Passing air through the pump during operation would be a hit or miss thing depending on how big the air pocket is the pump is trying to pass. The magnets dont start seeing any kind of damage till 250*+ They start to loose magnetizem and each time you do that the magnets loose about 10-15% of their magnetic properties which doesnt come back. If you were to damage the magents i would replace them both as you cant tell how strong the magnets are unless to have a way of doing torque testing on them.


-Walter
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