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-   -   Questions about March Pumps answered by the Factory! (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/questions-about-march-pumps-answered-factory-210199/)

pola0502ds 04-12-2011 12:18 PM

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I do not have the center outlet design. For the march pump the inlet and outlet on the pump cover are horizontal with one on each side. For the pump I bought from sabco both inlet and outlets are on the right side pointing up at a 45 degree angle. I dont like this pump as much but it does not produce anywhere near as much noise as the march pump. I used some elbows and other fittings to do what I did.

I think it's the hose bending and kinking because once I pick up the hose with my hand and move it a certain way the bubbles go away.

How can something like that cause air bubbles when there's no air in the lines to begin with?

What does cavitating the pump mean?

here is a pic of my pumps.


pola0502ds 04-14-2011 11:54 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by kickflip_mj View Post
Im looking for a triclover head on a 809, were can i get one?
This is what I did to add tri-clover fittings. See pictures. You can find male and female adapters. Thats what I did and I like the setup. But, from what we are just reading, I may have to remove some fittings or change it up a bit. You can mount a female triclover adapter directly to the pump head.

Warning, it does not take much to seal up whatever fitting you add to your pump head. No need to crank on it to get a good seal, learn from me. I was cranking on it and broke the threads completely off. The threads were stuck in the fitting that broke off and I couldn't get them out. So I just used JB Weld to glue it back on and it works just fine.

pola0502ds 04-14-2011 11:54 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by kickflip_mj View Post
Im looking for a triclover head on a 809, were can i get one?
This is what I did to add tri-clover fittings. See pictures. You can find male and female adapters. Thats what I did and I like the setup. But, from what we are just reading, I may have to remove some fittings or change it up a bit. You can mount a female triclover adapter directly to the pump head.

Warning, it does not take much to seal up whatever fitting you add to your pump head. No need to crank on it to get a good seal, learn from me. I was cranking on it and broke the threads completely off. The threads were stuck in the fitting that broke off and I couldn't get them out. So I just used JB Weld to glue it back on and it works just fine.

pola0502ds 04-18-2011 01:48 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Guys, now that I am doing more tested I am really running into problems with the pump not priming. Can you guys look at my pictures in this thread and critique my build? I would also like it if someone can provide info on how to add a priming fixture/valve assemble to each pump. Maybe some threads that exist?

Just so you know the front left keg is my BK, the front right is my mash tun, the back right is my HLT, and the back left is my keg to create steam which will be used to sanitize my therminator, run through the lines to clean, and to prep my fermenter. The keg that creates steam is what I will be fermenting in. Kill 2 birds with one stone.


pola0502ds 04-18-2011 01:48 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Guys, now that I am doing more tested I am really running into problems with the pump not priming. Can you guys look at my pictures in this thread and critique my build? I would also like it if someone can provide info on how to add a priming fixture/valve assemble to each pump. Maybe some threads that exist?

Just so you know the front left keg is my BK, the front right is my mash tun, the back right is my HLT, and the back left is my keg to create steam which will be used to sanitize my therminator, run through the lines to clean, and to prep my fermenter. The keg that creates steam is what I will be fermenting in. Kill 2 birds with one stone.


pola0502ds 04-20-2011 12:12 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by pola0502ds View Post
Walter, I will post pictures tomorrow morning. I didn't get your request until now and I need to take more pics.
Here are the pictures.

1 pump transfers water from the HLT to the mash. That same pump recirculates wort through a RIMS tube and it also transfers water from the HLT to the mash while sparging and at the same time the 2nd pump transfers wort from the mash to the bk during sparging and it also pulls wort through a trub filter and into a therminator.

I would like to know what the best way is to add a priming fixture. Can anyone post pics of what they did to be able to prime their pumps?

pola0502ds 04-20-2011 12:12 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by pola0502ds View Post
Walter, I will post pictures tomorrow morning. I didn't get your request until now and I need to take more pics.
Here are the pictures.

1 pump transfers water from the HLT to the mash. That same pump recirculates wort through a RIMS tube and it also transfers water from the HLT to the mash while sparging and at the same time the 2nd pump transfers wort from the mash to the bk during sparging and it also pulls wort through a trub filter and into a therminator.

I would like to know what the best way is to add a priming fixture. Can anyone post pics of what they did to be able to prime their pumps?

WalterAtMarchPump 03-30-2012 05:50 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ekjohns View Post
Walter,

I am looking to mount my pump in a tool box and was wondering about exactly the best way to do this. I have seen people do it different ways:

1. the connecting bracket (part 11 on diagram below) is bolted to the toolbox wall between the bracket and motor,

2. The pump head is free floating in the hole and the base of the motor is mounted to the floor of the tool box.

3. The connecting bracket is mounted to the toolbox between the bracket and the pump head.

1 and 3 would require moving the drive magnet (14) further from the motor. Is this fine and what is the best way of doing it? Also if I choose 1 or 3 would it be fine to leave the motor not secured, or would the weight of the motor put strain on the system?

I think the easiest way would be to take the pump head off the motor bracket (the 4 philips screws) and place the motor/bracket inside the box and line it up against the box side and mark where it hits. From that point i would cut a 3" hole and you should be able to get the first half of the motor bracket in and through that hole. The bracket is actually 3-9/32" in dia but the main bracket body is closer to 2-3/4".....so you should be able to get the mounting ears through.......you will have a gap around it but that would be cosmetic at that point.
If you wanted to make it look perfect, as i'm sure some people do, you would need to take the motor bracket off and remove the drive magnet. Just note how it sits on the shaft of the motor. Place the motor into the box and mark there the shaft hit the side. At that point you drill a hole 1/4" pilot hole....then print out the attachment below and drill the restof the holes.....you need a 2-1/8" hole saw and then 4 9/64" holes for the screws. When you have it all done you put the magnet back on the shaft and offset it by how thick your plastic box is. Then assemble the bracket back on the motor and eyeball the magnet as close to center as possible. Put the pump head back on and plumb it up with some water. Turn it on ans see if you get any rubbing. If you do then loosen the flat haed screws and tap the bracket around till its nice and quiet again. And you should be in business.

I made this template for you guys...it should be full size so you should be able just to tape it on the box and drill away

WalterAtMarchPump 04-18-2012 02:33 PM

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Is the shaft tight in the pump head when you took it apart? And does the impeller spin freely on the shaft? How's the teflon thrust washer looking? Should be either black or white and sit on the shaft between the impeller and the front housing.

From the vid it sounds like the impeller is too loose inside the pump head for some reason. but hard to say without having it in front of me to see first hand.


WalterAtMarchPump 04-27-2012 05:59 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by l3asturd View Post
By the way, I got some thrust washers, and they seem to have helped, but I also reduced flow when approaching boiling temps to help with cavitation.

On another note, placing the pump motor below the pump head, in a vertical configuration, seems like a really bad idea to me. Unless you protected the motor, every drop falling from the head would be getting dangerously close to dripping inside the motor itself.

Unlikely anyone would want to mount the pump vertically though.
Mounting it with the motor on top is the first thought people have when mounting them verticaly...problem is you get an air pocket trapped in the rear housing and even though the pump head is pumping the back end is running dry. this cut away shows the pump head position if it was under the motor...


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