I would think that a wire brush on a corded drill would be better than 100 grit! Wouldn't a wire brush be perfect for this... Maybe a scotch brite pad if you don't have a drill.
Only if the wire in that brush is stainless and that would be really expensive. A plain steel wirebrush embeds particals in the stainless that will rust forever.These grinder pads are the cat's ass. They have ones that are a little bit more abrassive if you need to do some heavy cleaning but for most kegs, the blue gator grits seem fine. Believe it or not, stainless is hard enough that 100 grit doesn't do that much damage. I wouldn't recommend it though.
Only if the wire in that brush is stainless and that would be really expensive. A plain steel wirebrush embeds particals in the stainless that will rust forever.These grinder pads are the cat's ass. They have ones that are a little bit more abrassive if you need to do some heavy cleaning but for most kegs, the blue gator grits seem fine. Believe it or not, stainless is hard enough that 100 grit doesn't do that much damage. I wouldn't recommend it though.
Also any grinding/polishing tools used on steel should not be used on ss afterwards, as the same thing wil happen.
These grinder pads are the cat's ass. They have ones that are a little bit more abrassive if you need to do some heavy cleaning but for most kegs, the blue gator grits seem fine. Believe it or not, stainless is hard enough that 100 grit doesn't do that much damage. I wouldn't recommend it though.
I got the heavy, medium, and fine pads and the heavy did a real good job knocking down the bad stuff. Then just reworked them with the medium and then did the whole thing in fine, havent polished it yet though. project for this weekend.
However..... Did you have a problem with the backing material melting onto the keg and leaving scuffs?
Also, I could not get that damn angle grinder backer to fit on my arbor with the pad. Ended up using a cut off wheel that was ground down a bit.
Oh and a smooth polished surface radiates less heat than a rough surface
I had to take the large backing washer off the arbor before threading the backer pad on. The annoyance for me is that the spanner wrench for my grinder didn't fit the holes on the nut that came with the kit. I have to hand tighten and let the torque do the rest.
The trick I found to stop melting the pad's under surface was to not use too much edge. Try to lay it as flat as possible to keep from wearing it down too much. Also give it some time to cool every 10 minutes or so. Once the pad starts wearing down, you just have to move on to the new pad. I know, it's $9 for two but I'm finding it's going to take me exactly two pads of the finishing ones and two polishing pads per keg. Oh, the price for glamour!
I'm not so sure I'm going to have the energy or enthusiasm to do all three kegs. I might do just the top of the MLT because I plan to insulate to some degree anyway.
I'm not so sure I'm going to have the energy or enthusiasm to do all three kegs. I might do just the top of the MLT because I plan to insulate to some degree anyway.
Thanks man, I will give that a try.
I would go ahead and polish the whole thing. Some one on the v6 f150 forum I am on was a thermagorapher and showed images of a polished intake manifold and a regular one and I was amazed at the difference in radiant heat between the two.
Nice job man.
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