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#2 | |
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Circle City Brewing
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Quote:
Are you using it for temp. control? If so, yes, should be fine. No manual mode necessary. Last edited by The Pol; 02-09-2010 at 12:35 PM. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 116
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Yeah that was my concern...I guess the Auber ones are probably the cheapest with manual mode, but by the time I buy 2 of those it is almost worth going the extra mile for one of the BCS-460s.
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
For boiling couldn't you just set the temperature to say, 213F maybe higher and let it run? Or not? |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 116
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I have seen this discussed before and I think the basic reasoning why this wouldn't work is that above 212 the liquid becomes a gas. So the PID will always keep the element on trying to reach 213 and just keep boiling harder and harder. Then if you set it to 212 it will hit boiling then shut off until the boil stops and then cycle back on, but I have not tried it so I am only going off of some other threads.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
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Ok what about this one? It mentions manual control in the description. Or are we now paying as much as for the Auber stuff that we #1 know works and #2 know will show up in a timely fashion? ![]() |
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#7 |
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Death by Magumba!
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For those prices just buy one from Auber and get a cheap chinese SSR and type K thermocouple.
__________________
Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config |
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#8 |
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Circle City Brewing
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#9 |
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Senior Member
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 116
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+1 on the Auber PID and Ebay SSR being a better deal than the Ebay PIDs with manual mode. Oh well...At least I didn't pull the trigger on one of the one without manual mode. Thinking I might go brewtroller or bcs-460 so I can eventually control pumps and valves with it.
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