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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Peristaltic pumps
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Old 04-27-2009, 05:44 AM   #21
WBC
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What would you use for the fence? I was thinking of rolling flat stock (steel) in a half round and use 3 rollers. The half round would be solidly mounted on a back plate and the rollers would be mounted on a round disc on the end of the driven shaft. The pulley ratio (motor to shaft) would be 10 to 15 to 1 using pulleys or tooth driven pulleys so that a 1725 motor would rotate at 172.5 or 115 rpm to near zero using a speed control. That's 2.875 or 1.92 rounds per second. Double tubes could be used for synchronous displacement of 2 fluid transfers such as a sparge operation.

What are your thoughts on this?

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Old 04-27-2009, 01:52 PM   #22
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By the looks of this one, a fence might not necessary: Greylor Company | Model 200 | Pump manufacture and Distributor It looks like the hose is simply wound tightly around the rollers. If it is wound tightly enough, then the rollers act as the pinch point, but it might not work as well for thicker walled tubing. I don't think construction tolerances would be as much of an issue with this design (much easier for DIY)

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Old 04-27-2009, 02:11 PM   #23
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What would you use for the fence? I was thinking of rolling flat stock (steel) in a half round and use 3 rollers. The half round would be solidly mounted on a back plate and the rollers would be mounted on a round disc on the end of the driven shaft. The pulley ratio (motor to shaft) would be 10 to 15 to 1 using pulleys or tooth driven pulleys so that a 1725 motor would rotate at 172.5 or 115 rpm to near zero using a speed control. That's 2.875 or 1.92 rounds per second. Double tubes could be used for synchronous displacement of 2 fluid transfers such as a sparge operation.

What are your thoughts on this?
That's a pretty good idea. I was thinking of taking a a block of wood, cut a circle into it. Then take and cut half of the circle away. Cut a hole in the center of the circle and place a windshield wiper motor behind it. Then cut 2 discs of derlin or even hardwood with 3 even spaced holes on it's edge and sandwich small wheels between the layers.

The inside of the circle would need to be sanded really well to keep from damaging the tubing. But for a prototype I think it would work great. Then a bigger stronger model could be made later out of better materials.
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Current Rig
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Old 04-27-2009, 02:51 PM   #24
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This is what i'm thinking for a base. It could be cut out of a piece of 2x12.

pumpbase.jpg  
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Old 04-27-2009, 04:48 PM   #25
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The tubing and roller diameter will dictate the force needed to compress the tubing. The ends of the half round will need a lead radius at entry and exit of the half round so you don't cut the hose. As a second thought I was thinking of 2024 aluminum for my pump and half inch ID hose.
A gearmotor would be very easy to use for this but are somewhat expensive. I could anodize the aluminum once the design was finalized.

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Fermentor 1: Bill's House Ale II, Fermentor 2: German Helles, Fermentor 3: Bill's Schworzbier (Black Bier)
Tap 1: Bill's House Ale II, Tap 2: German Hefewizen, Tap 3: Nut Brown Ale
Future Brews: Stone IPA Clone, Blonde Ale, Budvar Clone, Newcastle Clone
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Old 04-27-2009, 04:53 PM   #26
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Yeah I rounded out the entries and exits to keep the tubing safe. I think I am going to give this a whirl, it may be a cheaper and more effective solution than another march pump for my setup.

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Current Rig
4.5KW E-HLT
5.5KW E-Kettle
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Old 04-27-2009, 06:35 PM   #27
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Hey, with half a dozen peeps all doing research work then this peristaltic thing may fly!

All these ideas seem OK to me. As long as a second roller gets onto the wall before the earlier one leaves, then pumping should flow nicely. Running two or more pipes on the same wall is fine as the pipe can run dry so if a pipe is unused then no problems. I am going the wood route with skateboard wheels to prove the concept, but one of you lot might just beat me to it at this rate.

I don't like the look of having no wall at all, as the tube has to bend a whole lot more, but given that some production units work this way, then it must be a reliable method.

I am making my wall with side walls to help retain the tube under the rollers. This may not be needed.

It is the surface speed of the rollers and the internal diameter of the tube that gives the flow rate, so the bigger the circumference that the rollers are on , the slower the motor needs to rotate, so within reason you can choose a size that suits the revs of your motor. I am thinking that if the wall is more of a full circle then the side loads on the drive shaft may be lessened a fair bit. Three rollers on a half circle wall will put a side load on the shaft, but if the circle is increased to nearer a full circle and there are more than 4 rollers, then the forces caused by the tube will cancel out and the shaft will not see sideways forces as a roller traverses fresh air, but more rollers makes it more complex, and pummels the tube more often .....Does this make sense or am I talkin drivel again.

Geared windshield wiper motors should be up to the job, and are everywhere, and free if you search around!

Smaller versions of geared motors like the windshield wiper motors can be found in cars that have powered steering wheel placement systems. I am thinking of using one of these nice small motors to power an Archemedes screw system to slowly deliver grain to my grain mill rollers. Not actually needed, but much more elegant than dumping it in a hopper and having the grain fighting to find space between the rollers! (Someone at work then suggested I go the whole hog, and feed the grain mill one grain at a time using tweezers, but I ignored him!)

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Old 05-01-2009, 04:37 PM   #28
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Update....

I am looking at using the inside surface of an alloy wheel as the wall that the tube goes on! The advantage of this is it already has an accurate concentric ring in the center of the wheel that can be used to mount some sort of home made bearing carrier for the motor shaft, or bearings for a shaft that then connects via a drive coupling to your motor. I have a feeling in my brewery water that this is going to work !

I have a spare 14" Mazda Miata wheel that should do fine for initial experiments, and access to much bigger Jaguar ones if I need to go bigger. The 14" wheel gives two different sized surfaces that can be used that are about what I think I need to get over the 2 GPM target flow rate.

For those experimenting with a wood or MDF wall, a smooth final surface can be made by fitting thin metal shim onto the surface.

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Old 05-04-2009, 04:19 PM   #29
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I love the idea of a peristaltic pump and instantly thought of brewing applications the second I laid eyes on one. You can count me in as an experimenter. I'll make sure to post back with any failures or successes.

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Old 05-04-2009, 04:48 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverbrewer View Post
Update....

I am looking at using the inside surface of an alloy wheel as the wall that the tube goes on! The advantage of this is it already has an accurate concentric ring in the center of the wheel that can be used to mount some sort of home made bearing carrier for the motor shaft, or bearings for a shaft that then connects via a drive coupling to your motor. I have a feeling in my brewery water that this is going to work !

I have a spare 14" Mazda Miata wheel that should do fine for initial experiments, and access to much bigger Jaguar ones if I need to go bigger. The 14" wheel gives two different sized surfaces that can be used that are about what I think I need to get over the 2 GPM target flow rate.

For those experimenting with a wood or MDF wall, a smooth final surface can be made by fitting thin metal shim onto the surface.
Will you be using a gasoline engine to run this thing? It seems to be getting kinda large.
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