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Old 04-20-2007, 06:57 PM   #1
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Default Parts list for keggle fitting...

Ok.. I have a friend who works at a plumbing supply store.. he told me if i get him a parts list, he can get me those parts next to nothing...

So if someone out there has a parts list for this:



that would be awesome...

thanks!

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Old 04-20-2007, 07:05 PM   #2
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Left to right:

1/2" female NPT stainless coupler
7/8" stainless washer
-116 food grade silicone o-ring
1/2" NPT brass lock nut
1/2" male NPT stainless nipple
1/2" full port stainless 2-piece ball valve
1/2" male NPT stainless barbed hose fitting

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Old 04-20-2007, 07:15 PM   #3
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I would refer to those as follows.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuri_Rage
Left to right:

1/2" stainless female NPT coupler
3/4" stainless washer
-18 food grade silicone o-ring
1/2" NPT brass lock nut
1/2" nipple (I don't remember how long of one you need, probably 1" or 1.5")
1/2" full port stainless 2-piece ball valve
1/2" NPT to barb fitting
Also, I use a slightly longer nipple through the keggle wall and have a washer and high-temp O-ring on both the inside and outside. It's easier to get everything to seal right that way.
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Old 04-20-2007, 07:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Sparky
I would refer to those as follows.
It was a work in progress...it's all fixed now, and I changed the o-ring and washer sizes.

Here are the McMaster-Carr part numbers (you can get most of this stuff WAY cheaper):
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:01 PM   #5
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hmm... so that parts list is certainly the ideal way to do it.
However could you cut some corners by having most of the parts copper?brass?
If so which ones? Could you simply use a brass nipple/brass lock nut/on the inside and the O ring/brass or copper ball valve with a brass or copper barb fitting on the outside?

You would need some way to attach whatever kind of hopstopper/false bottom/bazooka tube you want on the inside but you could do that a couple of ways i'd think.

I'm glad this came up as I was going to go nuts and get it all from northwest brewer once I started looking at the total from McMaster-carr and want to get a pump anyhow... but now i've started thinking many things won't be necessary. For instance I see no need to put a female coupler inside the HLT if there isn't going to be anything on it and I can do the same thing with a lock nut. I was going to get a brewmometer for all three kegs untill Yuri pointed out he doesn't like his and then I thought... wait why do I even need one for the brew pot? and it would be better to have a digital probe for the mashtun so that I can see what its like at different points in the mash bed...and if I go to a rims/herms i'll likely just put the temp probe on the output before the return to the mashtun anyhow... hmm... I'll bring up RIM/HERM debate in another thread.

anyhow, my point is that it seems like we could do this all a little cheaper and wiser so as to avoid the "must have stainless fittings, site/temp on everything!" factor. While I know i'd like that... I get carried away and I won't have anything left to get grain

oh and it seems to be impossible to get stainless parts off the shelf in Seattle by the way. What is up with that? is it just so uncommon a demand that they don't bother? LAME! perhaps if it really is necessary to get them a few of us in the Seattle area that are putting things together could get it all bulk and take care of shipping together at least (and besides I have at least one extra keg as of right now).

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Old 04-20-2007, 08:45 PM   #6
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Sure, you could go cheaper. The ones I've got are a combination of SS, copper, and brass.

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Old 04-20-2007, 09:11 PM   #7
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Even better: spend $30 at a local welding shop and skip buying all that hardware.

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Old 04-20-2007, 10:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuri_Rage
Even better: spend $30 at a local welding shop and skip buying all that hardware.
don't you just hate it when someone comes along and makes sense
but would you just get a female coupler welded in or a nipple? I'm guessing nipples
and of course you'd still have to get the ball valves no matter what.
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seawort
don't you just hate it when someone comes along and makes sense
but would you just get a female coupler welded in or a nipple? I'm guessing nipples
and of course you'd still have to get the ball valves no matter what.
A female coupler is the way to go, I think. They weld nicer, and you have the option of putting fittings both inside (false bottom/hop screen) and outside (ball valve) your kettle.
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Sparky
Sure, you could go cheaper. The ones I've got are a combination of SS, copper, and brass.
so... no problem with brass in the pot then?
expansion/contraction issues with the copper/brass?
I think yuri is right a stainless coupler welded in is the way to go... but it really doesn't save that much if you can use other types of parts as you can easily get the weldless parts you'd need for less than 10 bucks total. Different strokes I guess, unless you can weld your own in which case it makes no sense at all to go weldless.
Good to know all the part numbers and such, as well as knowing that the metal types don't really mater.
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Last edited by seawort; 04-20-2007 at 11:15 PM.
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