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Old 09-19-2008, 04:48 PM   #1
sleepystevenson
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Default One Barrel Single Tier System Build

After many months of saving and scrounging parts, the one barrel system my brother and I have been working on is finally coming together. Many thanks to everyone here who has given me help so far....

I ponied up for the membership, so this will be my first post attempt with pics! Please bear with me.

Ok, the heart of the one barrel system are these sweet one barrel kegs. The first pic shows the stand and one of the kegs. The second pic is for size reference between a 1/2 barrel keg and a full barrel keg. The 3rd pic is the whole shootin' match at it's current stage.

The stand is made of 2"x2"x16 ga. galvanized tubing.

stand.jpg   kegcomparison.jpg   currentprogress.jpg  
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Old 09-19-2008, 05:07 PM   #2
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Dang, where did you find barrel kegs? I want some of those.

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Old 09-19-2008, 05:09 PM   #3
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That is awesome! Great beer Pron. Where did you get the barrels? I never even thought about full barrels but I am sure the bars have access to them through distributors. Just great!

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Old 09-19-2008, 05:10 PM   #4
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WOW! Those are some massive keggles!

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Old 09-19-2008, 05:11 PM   #5
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I didn't even think they made those anymore...

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Old 09-19-2008, 06:44 PM   #6
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Thankfully, I have a family member who collects stainless stuff like some people collect stamps.... retirement fund, I guess. I don't believe that any distributor, at least in PA, sells full barrel kegs. Maybe elsewhere??

We were gonna go w/ stainless 55 gal. drums for the HLT/MLT/BK, but figured that rarely would we actually use that much capacity. Also the kegs are MUCH heavier steel than the 55 gal. drums, which are only 20 gauge. The single barrels are at least 14 gauge.

Now the fermenter is 2 barrels. That way, if we ever want to do a double batch of the same recipe, we could mash a second batch while the first was boiling and put them BOTH into the same fermenter. Tough to tell the size, cause there isn't much for size reference in the pic, but the overall height is close to 6'! I can just see over the top.

The bottom of the fermenter is not "conical", but does have a nice rounded bottom. I am hoping that that 1 1/2" bottom drain will get at least SOME yeast/trub out. We put a second drain a few gal's up from the bottom drain, which will allow us to gravity drain directly into corny kegs.

Third pic is the top of the fermenter.

fermenter1.jpg   fermenterbase.jpg   fermentertop1.jpg  
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Old 09-19-2008, 07:30 PM   #7
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From left to right, the brew vessels are: BK, MLT, HLT.
(See pic 1 below)


All vessels have sight glasses, which have yet to be calibrated. My plan is to use heavy duty automotive pinstriping tape to mark the gallons. I got 1/16" black tape to be used for each gallon and 1/8" red tape for each 5 gallon mark. Which makes it really simple with no numbers necessary.

Pic 2, interior of boil kettle.
The Boil Kettle has your std. 3" thermometer with interior guard (a la Bobby M - thanks!), and a dip tube with a hop screen placed near the sidewall to allow me to whirlpool the trub into the center.
You will see the return at the top. For you guys who currently have a one tier system, do you think this is ok for BK return?? Sufficient to get enough whirlpool action?

NONE of the copper is soldered at this point. I am hoping that friction fit will be enough, as everything seems pretty tight. Thoughts?



bkmlthlt.jpg   bkinterior.jpg  
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Old 09-19-2008, 07:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepystevenson View Post
You will see the return at the top. For you guys who currently have a one tier system, do you think this is ok for BK return?? Sufficient to get enough whirlpool action??
The return seems pretty high. Will it be submerged in wort? If not, you can get hot side aeration.
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Old 09-19-2008, 08:10 PM   #9
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My return looks very similar to yours. I don't get a strong whirlpool. The march pump just doesn't have enough flow to do that. It's more like a very gentle swirl.

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Old 09-19-2008, 08:24 PM   #10
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I whirlpool from my pickup tube and get a very good whirlpool. I don't think the speed of the spin is as important as allowing it to settle for a full 20-30 minutes. As long as the return is at least a couple inches below the liquid level you will be fine. You could always extend the return tube down farther (nice design btw).

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