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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > The No-Leak MLT bulkhead design
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:26 PM   #81
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I know silicone caulk won't adhere to the wall of the cooler, but it should serve as a custom gasket, right? In that it will conform to the contours/cracks/crevices available prior to curing. I was thinking of putting some around the nipple on either side of the inner cooler wall, then adding silicone washer on both sides, then ss washers behind those, locknut behind inner assembly, PVC behind exterior, then locknut and ball valve on outside. Should work well, right?

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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 02-09-2012, 03:41 PM   #82
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Bought two pack of small baby bottle nipples. Cut just after widest point. Placed this against inner cooler wall, followed by ss washer, locknut. PVC union between cooler walls, ss washer, ball valve. No leak so far with 3 gallons of water and some beer bottles for extra displacement. Also: triple wrapped threads, even though the locknut is probably bottomed out and the new "gasket/washer" is very tight on the nipple. From earlier leaks using o-ring, I feel the water was NOT travelling the threads, rather coming in from the sides. This new washer seems to easily solve that, and being food grade silicone that is normally boiled to sanitize, I know it can withstand the temps.

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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:33 PM   #83
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I was hoping somebody here could offer some advice. After fiddling with this design for a few hours I am pretty frustrated. The point of weakness for me in building this design appears to be between the locknut and the ball valve. Water travels down through the spigot, hits the closed ball valve and looks for somewhere to go. This is the only spot that does not have a oring on it. So it just seeps between the cracks and out over the lock nut. After a lot of testing I am fairly convinced the actual seal between the cooler walls is sound.

Has anybody else run into this?

My current configuration is as follows.

ball valve ------ lock nut -------oring -------cooler wall-------oring------igloo washer-----stainless washer-----barb

I am using this kit from Ritebrew.

Other than constantly reapplying teflon tape what can i do?

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Old 05-19-2012, 11:39 PM   #84
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So you think water is leaking out of the back of the ball valve? If so, I'm not sure what else would fix that, other than teflon tape. Give the nipple 6-7 good layers of teflon tape before you screw anything onto it. That's always fixed whatever problems I've had.

I'm no plumber, though, so maybe someone else will have a better idea,

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Old 05-21-2012, 06:13 AM   #85
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All you need is teflon tape on the threads under the locknut.

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Old 06-02-2012, 01:02 AM   #86
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Just finished mine up. Great plans. I just modified it slightly due to some part availability and ended up with a fantastic seal using some grommets and O-rings. Thanks for the post.

Edit: Did my second all grain batch today. Efficiencies are right in the ballpark, so the braided SS hose is doing a bang-up job. I always hit it and beat it up a little stirring the mash and it is holding up just fine with no internal wire or other support.
Love the new system. Can't thank you enough for posting such a great conversion. Awesome.

JB

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Old 02-17-2013, 09:13 PM   #87
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thanks so much. works great!

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Old 03-21-2013, 04:01 PM   #88
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Thanks Bobby M, Im going to need this, building a mash tun soon.

Cheers

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Old 06-27-2013, 06:39 PM   #89
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Hoping for some advice on widening the existing spigot hole in the cooler wall. I'm building this from a coleman xtreme 72qt cooler (so I can make 10 gallon batches of bigger beers and still have a reasonable water:grain ratio).

The cooler wall is exactly 1 inch thick. The existing hole with the spigot removed is 24.5 mm in diameter by my digital caliper. I'm going to need to widen the outside plastic wall to 1 1/8" (28.6 mm) to accommodate the nipple and PVC sleeve.

Since there's already a hole there, I don't know how I would center a spade bit or hole saw. Would I use a step bit for this? Or do you think I could get away with incrementally grinding away the outer wall plastic with a dremel tool until it is wide enough? How about the insulation - just do it rough and dirty with an Xacto knife?

Thanks for any tips!

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Old 06-28-2013, 01:37 AM   #90
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Very coarse round file rasp, or An aggressive dremmel bit would work as well...I don't think a knife would cut it..

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