When given the option of welding, I'd always recommend it over weldless. It's just that if you have to go weldless, some designs are better than others in my humble opinion.
I was just working last night on setting up the rev 3 MLT. This one and the last one will both be Coleman Xtreame's. The spigot that comes on this cooler unscrews leaving you with a threaded piece, a "nut", and a white piece that held it all in place. This white piece is what is actually up against the cooler wall and goes inside wall. It goes about half way through the wall and is probably an inch around against the wall. The 1/2 inch nipple fits perfectly through it. Since this is now my second Xtreame cooler I now have one on the inside and outside. If you only had the one you should probably just put it on the inside. Works perfectly.
Would it be of benefit to apply some super glue or silicone caulk to the insulation portion of the cooler prior to inserting the 3/4" PVC reinforcement?
I see this as sort of waterproofing the interior of the cooler such that if the design did leak, there would be no wort seeping into the insulation of the cooler. Thoughts?
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William Street Brewing Company
Primary: Cranberry Cyser (D47), Cranberry Cyser (EC-1118)
Secondary: Framboise Lambic, Blackberry Melomel, Sour Cherry Riesling Pyment
Kegged: Apfelwein (1 year old), Apfelwein (2 year old), Old Ale
Would it be of benefit to apply some super glue or silicone caulk to the insulation portion of the cooler prior to inserting the 3/4" PVC reinforcement?
I see this as sort of waterproofing the interior of the cooler such that if the design did leak, there would be no wort seeping into the insulation of the cooler. Thoughts?
This has probably come up before but what about this variation:
Then you wouldn't have to worry about the threads in the nipple because the liquid would never come in contact with the nipple at all (well except for the interior surface of course). I wonder if this would seal better because any leakage would have to seep through a directly clamped surface, unlike the OP diagram where you are blocking leakage that would flow perp to clamping surface, ie along the outer surface of the nipple "under" the o ring.
Not that I've heard of any problems with the orig design but I was just wondering...
This has probably come up before but what about this variation:
Then you wouldn't have to worry about the threads in the nipple because the liquid would never come in contact with the nipple at all (well except for the interior surface of course). I wonder if this would seal better because any leakage would have to seep through a directly clamped surface, unlike the OP diagram where you are blocking leakage that would flow perp to clamping surface, ie along the outer surface of the nipple "under" the o ring.
Not that I've heard of any problems with the orig design but I was just wondering...
In theory, that extra o-ring would fix the problem but there's not enough flat surface on the end of a coupling to tighten against the oring without squeezing it out of place. If that were possible, there'd be no need for the interior flat washer.
Linear Mode
