Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Winners Re-Re-Re-Drawn - 24 hours to Claim!

Get your HBT Growlers, Shirts and Membership before the Rush!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > The No-Leak MLT bulkhead design
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 05-16-2009, 02:28 PM   #11
conpewter
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
conpewter's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: East Dundee, Illinois
Posts: 5,133
Liked 43 Times on 38 Posts
Likes Given: 8

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisS View Post
conpewter,

how long of a nipple did you use on the conversion where you cut away in the outer shell?
Hmm with that build I actually used the spigot that you'd find on a bottling bucket. I had it sitting around already and the hose I was planning on using for transfer fits on it very nice. I've retired that mash tun for the most part, I bought out a guy getting out of the hobby and got a 10 gal round cooler, it just fits better into my setup.

My next brew will be using both coolers though, I can't fit the grain bill in the 10 gal cooler, this is for a 5 gal batch!
__________________

"People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people." - V

Primary: Nothin
Secondary: Shady Lord RIS, Water to Barleywine, Pumpkin wine, burnt mead
Kegged: Crappy infected mild
Bottles: Apfelwein, 999 Barleywine, Oatmeal Stout, Robust Porter, Robust smoked porter, Simcoe Smash

conpewter is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-14-2009, 03:10 AM   #12
yeastbound
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Waller, TX
Posts: 33
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
First, having the inside (and only) Oring sitting on the nipple flat doesn't require any huge buildup of teflon tape to keep liquid from getting past the Oring through the threads.
I'm going to ask what's probably a really stupid question here, but does this statement suggest that no teflon tape is necessary on the inside threads, or just not a ton of it?

I've been trying to get this exact setup not to leak with no success. I'm just trying to eliminate potential points of failure.
__________________
Primary: For Those About to Bock (Stalled Fermentation)
Secondary: Big George Brown (5G)
Kegged: Big George Brown (5G), Waller County Wheat (10G), Level 1 IPA (10G), Pale Ale (10G)
Upcoming: Something for us to drink, dammit.


http://yeastbound.com
yeastbound is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-14-2009, 03:42 AM   #13
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 22,245
Liked 1056 Times on 704 Posts
Likes Given: 28

Default

If it's setup just right, with the oring touching the flat of the nipple and the cooler wall, it shouldn't leak. If the Oring is over any threads at all, it will leak without teflon tape. The only solution there is to pack the threads.

__________________
BrewHardware.com has a new website. Please check it out and let me know what you think!
New 100% Stainless Steel Heating Elements are IN!
Chugger Pumps, Pump Kits, Camlocks, Sightglasses, Clear USA made Silicone Tubing, RIMS, Electric Install Parts, etc. Did you know we are also now a full service homebrew shop selling malt, hops, yeast (Wyeast), etc?
Bobby_M is online now
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-25-2009, 07:52 PM   #14
JVD_X
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
 
JVD_X's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gainesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,492
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default

Bobby,

This is the same setup I have on my cooler minus the pvc piping. That is an excellent addition and seems to solve the issue of reinforcement for the whole unit. If we explore that area more I bet we could make it even better. What about using a 2"-3" disc of HDPE?

1) Insert it into the wall of the cooler (don't know what the best way would be yet).

2) Use some expanding foam (or something else) to fill in the gaps.

3) Drill out a hole of the appropriate diameter for the piping.

Continue with the rest of the design as laid out.

__________________

- JVD_X

JVD_X is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-27-2009, 05:17 PM   #15
Derek
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kelowna, BC, Canada.
Posts: 20
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JVD_X View Post
Bobby,

This is the same setup I have on my cooler minus the pvc piping. That is an excellent addition and seems to solve the issue of reinforcement for the whole unit. If we explore that area more I bet we could make it even better. What about using a 2"-3" disc of HDPE?

1) Insert it into the wall of the cooler (don't know what the best way would be yet).

2) Use some expanding foam (or something else) to fill in the gaps.

3) Drill out a hole of the appropriate diameter for the piping.

Continue with the rest of the design as laid out.
I like this design, but the inner wall of the coleman 'xtreme' does seem a little weak for all of the load.

I'm considering cutting a piece out of the bottom, then sliding a spacer up between the walls. I was thinking of using wood because it would be easy to shape. The wood shouldn't get any moisture, but if it did, the bottom would be open to dry out.

Plastic might be a better idea, but it might be easier to shape wood (and maybe conform to any residual insulation on the wall, without creating pressure points).
__________________
Derek is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-27-2009, 06:21 PM   #16
frogfree
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 35
Default

If you use a cooler for an MLT, here's a cheap and easy method that doesn't leak.

Run a tube through a drilled rubber stopper.
Plug the stopper in the hole.
Install an inline valve outside of the cooler.

This is Denny's idea. Look at the "Cooler Detail" section of his page. dennybrew

__________________
frogfree is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-27-2009, 08:15 PM   #17
Derek
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kelowna, BC, Canada.
Posts: 20
Default

I'd "like something a little snazzier" than Denny's design.

I do see one problem with the coleman 'xtreme'. The space between the walls is really thick, and even with a 2" nipple, I don't think I could get the o-ring off the threads & onto the smooth part.

If I spaced it out (#2 washers in diagram), I don't think there would be enough thread outside for the ball valve (which needs a spacer for handle clearance). Maybe it would work with a different ball valve...

Canadian source for nipples longer than 2.5":
https://www.pieco.ca/

__________________

Derek is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-27-2009, 09:07 PM   #18
JVD_X
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
 
JVD_X's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gainesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,492
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by frogfree View Post
If you use a cooler for an MLT, here's a cheap and easy method that doesn't leak.

Run a tube through a drilled rubber stopper.
Plug the stopper in the hole.
Install an inline valve outside of the cooler.

This is Denny's idea. Look at the "Cooler Detail" section of his page. dennybrew
After about 10 brews with the coleman cooler extreme, the whole valve area gets flimsy. As Bobby_M has pointed out through his design - something to firm up the walls is needed.
__________________

- JVD_X

JVD_X is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-28-2009, 02:47 AM   #19
Derek
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kelowna, BC, Canada.
Posts: 20
Default

Okay, I cut a slot in the bottom of the xtreme & removed the insulation from around the recessed area. {There's not turning back now!}

I think I could wedge a spacer in there, but I'm wondering if it would be better to just fill that whole section with something that'll harden up? Fibre glass resin? (I'm not sure how much it heats up as it sets)? Epoxy resin? Any other options that are considered food safe?

__________________

Derek is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-28-2009, 04:08 AM   #20
JVD_X
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
 
JVD_X's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Gainesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,492
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default

I was thinking fiberglass resin as well.

__________________

- JVD_X

JVD_X is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
yet another bulkhead design (with pics) paledragon Equipment/Sanitation 4 02-08-2012 04:35 PM
Keg/Tun Bulkhead Fittings MattieSy Equipment/Sanitation 12 12-31-2010 07:45 AM
MoreBeer Bulkhead wh4tig0t Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 1 09-03-2009 10:25 PM
Another leaky bulkhead chrisbarnes5000 Kettles, Mash Tuns, & Hot Liquor Tanks 15 03-21-2009 03:46 AM
Bulkhead brewnman Equipment/Sanitation 7 02-04-2008 04:02 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS