how long of a nipple did you use on the conversion where you cut away in the outer shell?
Hmm with that build I actually used the spigot that you'd find on a bottling bucket. I had it sitting around already and the hose I was planning on using for transfer fits on it very nice. I've retired that mash tun for the most part, I bought out a guy getting out of the hobby and got a 10 gal round cooler, it just fits better into my setup.
My next brew will be using both coolers though, I can't fit the grain bill in the 10 gal cooler, this is for a 5 gal batch!
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First, having the inside (and only) Oring sitting on the nipple flat doesn't require any huge buildup of teflon tape to keep liquid from getting past the Oring through the threads.
I'm going to ask what's probably a really stupid question here, but does this statement suggest that no teflon tape is necessary on the inside threads, or just not a ton of it?
I've been trying to get this exact setup not to leak with no success. I'm just trying to eliminate potential points of failure.
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If it's setup just right, with the oring touching the flat of the nipple and the cooler wall, it shouldn't leak. If the Oring is over any threads at all, it will leak without teflon tape. The only solution there is to pack the threads.
This is the same setup I have on my cooler minus the pvc piping. That is an excellent addition and seems to solve the issue of reinforcement for the whole unit. If we explore that area more I bet we could make it even better. What about using a 2"-3" disc of HDPE?
1) Insert it into the wall of the cooler (don't know what the best way would be yet).
2) Use some expanding foam (or something else) to fill in the gaps.
3) Drill out a hole of the appropriate diameter for the piping.
This is the same setup I have on my cooler minus the pvc piping. That is an excellent addition and seems to solve the issue of reinforcement for the whole unit. If we explore that area more I bet we could make it even better. What about using a 2"-3" disc of HDPE?
1) Insert it into the wall of the cooler (don't know what the best way would be yet).
2) Use some expanding foam (or something else) to fill in the gaps.
3) Drill out a hole of the appropriate diameter for the piping.
Continue with the rest of the design as laid out.
I like this design, but the inner wall of the coleman 'xtreme' does seem a little weak for all of the load.
I'm considering cutting a piece out of the bottom, then sliding a spacer up between the walls. I was thinking of using wood because it would be easy to shape. The wood shouldn't get any moisture, but if it did, the bottom would be open to dry out.
Plastic might be a better idea, but it might be easier to shape wood (and maybe conform to any residual insulation on the wall, without creating pressure points).
I'd "like something a little snazzier" than Denny's design.
I do see one problem with the coleman 'xtreme'. The space between the walls is really thick, and even with a 2" nipple, I don't think I could get the o-ring off the threads & onto the smooth part.
If I spaced it out (#2 washers in diagram), I don't think there would be enough thread outside for the ball valve (which needs a spacer for handle clearance). Maybe it would work with a different ball valve...
If you use a cooler for an MLT, here's a cheap and easy method that doesn't leak.
Run a tube through a drilled rubber stopper.
Plug the stopper in the hole.
Install an inline valve outside of the cooler.
This is Denny's idea. Look at the "Cooler Detail" section of his page. dennybrew
After about 10 brews with the coleman cooler extreme, the whole valve area gets flimsy. As Bobby_M has pointed out through his design - something to firm up the walls is needed.
Okay, I cut a slot in the bottom of the xtreme & removed the insulation from around the recessed area. {There's not turning back now!}
I think I could wedge a spacer in there, but I'm wondering if it would be better to just fill that whole section with something that'll harden up? Fibre glass resin? (I'm not sure how much it heats up as it sets)? Epoxy resin? Any other options that are considered food safe?
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