New keezer wont shut off

So I just finished up my new keezer. brand new 13cf Frigidaire with a love TS2-010 controller.

This controller came off my last keezer I had for over a year. All programming is the same. Got it all wired up and it started cooling nicely. About 2 hrs after I plugged it in, it hit target temp and now it will not shut off.

Hysteria is set to 2deg, and it is 10 deg below that now. Any ideas? Im 99% sure its wired up right. I heard the love controller relay click when it was 1degree below the set point. its very odd. any help would be much appreciated!

Could this be a safety override from the temp alarm? The thermocouple from the original thermostat is still attached as well. I figured this wolud have no bearing since you disconnect the switched hot side of the original thermostat. I just cant figure out how the compressor is getting power unless the controller is malfunctioning.


Thanks,
JP

Ive been playing with the wiring and when I unplug the switched hot wire from the #11 terminal on the controller, the compressor stays on, so I am confident that the controller is working properly. anyone have ideas??

I'm not familiar with the specifics of the controller, or what the #11 terminal represents.

But you're saying you unplugged the hot wire from the controller and the freezer is still on? Is there any chance you mixed up your wires and you're running current through the ground or something?

If the controller is working properly the freezer should shut off. Are you using a std wall outlet connected to the controller to plug the freezer into or did you hard wire the freezer?

You could take a voltmeter to the outlet with the probe in a warm area and check the voltage, then put the probe in a freezer to see if it cuts out properly.

the #11 terminal is the SWITCHED hot terminal. I actually just completely disconnected the controller and the compressor still turns on when plugged in. not sure how this is possible as there is only a neutral connected. could it be somewhere in the lid light wiring harness? Im baffeled at this right now

The controller is hard wired in. I physically cut the hot side(black) of the original thermostat and the yellow switched hot of the thermostat and spliced in my controller

Could you give us a better idea of your wiring?

Do you have a multimeter? If so is there any reduction in voltage when the controller relay turns off (when the fridge should turn off)? If there is some drop it could be "floating" voltage from not enough insulation between wires/connecters/etc.

The one wire still running sounds like there could somehow still be a connection through a ground?

Unless of course you have completely bypassed the controller and have the fridge circuit going straight to the power source!

Originally I wanted to keep the lid light working for convenience but I may just bypass all circuitry and strictly wire the compressor into controller so it is a very simple circuit. Anyone see problems with this?

so I have a multimeter. The voltage at the compressor is 120V whether the controller is engaged or not.

I cut out all unnecessary wiring so it is a simple circuit.

it is wired as follows - wall side hot(black) to terminal 8&10. Wall side neutral(white) straight to compressor with a pig tail off to controller terminal 7. Switched hot (yellow) from terminal 11 to hot side of compressor. and a ground (green) from wall plug to fridge frame then to compressor ground terminal.

i am very perplexed by this. How can I prove that the controller is faulty? Could it be something else?

Any help is much appreciated

Thanks,
JP

But contrary to the idea that the controller is faulty, when I unplug the switched hot side from the controller terminal, the compressor stays on. So where can it draw the power from if the compressors hot wire isnt physically attached to anything??

so I dont have this brand controller but...

Why is the hot from wall going into 8 and 10? Is one power for the controller and the other power for the switch?

Why is neutral pigtailed to terminal 7? Is this just the neutral for the controller power?

Two thoughts if your wiring is indeed correct:
Use your multimeter and determine if the internal relay is actually switching? Unplug everything from the switch terminals leaving power to the controller and use the multimeter volt setting to read the 2 sides of the switch while manipulating either the temp probe or just the temp settings.

Second: if the fridge drawing a higher amperage than the relay in the controller is able to handle? Check the actual amperage, not just the listed one. Do this both when the fridge is first connected to power and when its just running.
If you know how to use a multimeter ignore the following... Measuring amperage is tricky as it actually needs to be made part of the circuit in order to read without shorting the whole thing. Make sure the fuse on your multimeter can handle the predicted amperage. Have it all wired up and then disconnect one connection of the hot wire going to the fridge (at/after controller) and use the multimeter on the amps setting to create the circuit.

Thank You for all the posts. The answer was surprisingly simple and my own fault. When I was attaching insulation to the inside of the collar after I wired the controller but before I tested it (because I had laid the freezer on its side to get it to its final resting place and wanted to wait 24 hrs before plugging it in) I put a screw through the extension cord I used to wire the controller. This shorted the circuit before the controller so the compressor had constant power. Once i figured it out, it was a quick fix. Thank you for all the feedback and :MUG:

JP-