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Old 02-22-2010, 10:18 PM   #361
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I am not sure exactly what that means... I think you are saying the relay will work, but I may not have exact temp reading after continued use. If that is the case I may just take out the relay and put in the 1500w element if I need to. I will test it and report back after using it for a while. Thanks for the heads up.

Scott...

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Old 02-23-2010, 12:29 AM   #362
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Where did you guys get your SS tubing to drop the thermocouple down into the MLT? Is it just crimped at the end or soldered? I am assuming you would want the water in the tube, but I wasn't sure.

Thanks, Scott...

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Old 02-23-2010, 01:22 AM   #363
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I am not sure exactly what that means... I think you are saying the relay will work, but I may not have exact temp reading after continued use. If that is the case I may just take out the relay and put in the 1500w element if I need to. I will test it and report back after using it for a while. Thanks for the heads up.

Scott...
If you start with a brand new brand stat controlling the element taking the load instead of the relay the pitting process has already started and that stats contacts are pitted. I found this out with failed stat contacts with hot tubs until I replaced another high dollar stat but had it control a relay instead. The stats contacts stayed clean not pitted with temps held within 0.10*F for many years. Hot tubs are a money making product they don't care if it fails after a years use. Your call.
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Old 02-23-2010, 05:18 AM   #364
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Where did you guys get your SS tubing to drop the thermocouple down into the MLT? Is it just crimped at the end or soldered? I am assuming you would want the water in the tube, but I wasn't sure.

Thanks, Scott...
SS corney keg dip tube. Just crimp, fold and crimp the end. You do NOT want water in the tube.
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Old 02-23-2010, 12:14 PM   #365
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http://www.stirplates.com/tWellStraight.htm
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Old 02-23-2010, 12:20 PM   #366
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Outstanding. Thank you!

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Old 02-24-2010, 11:39 PM   #367
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Pol - I'll fess up - I lost the part #'s that I laboriously wrote down as I read all 37 pages the first time. Got the stirrer, propeller and shaft coupler numbers OK - but I'm having a hard time with the Loc-Line. Did you just use 10095K12 (the 1/2 by 13" line with a 1/2" nozzle) or did you combine other parts? I seem to recall a conversation about how hard it is to put a Gray gizmo on the line - but it's all a blur. Got Part #'s? Also - why did you use the PVC cap to hold the heater element instead of the locknut from Bargain fittings?

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Old 02-25-2010, 12:23 AM   #368
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I just ordered mine, so I thought I would post my list. I made a mistake on the additional loc-line, so I edited the screen shot. This may not be exactly what you need to order, but for the most part it is complete. Disregard the hex nut at the bottom. That is the wrong one. The one you need is at bargainfittings.com

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Old 02-25-2010, 12:42 AM   #369
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Excellent! Thanks smuth10. I just found the description (again) of how he mounted the element on page 10. I'll do it the same way, but have to include a tabbed copper washer to get a ground (neutral) contact for my 240 volt element. Since the Bargain Fittings locknut includes a silicone o-ring for an inside seal - would it be OK to leave out the original element seal on the outside?

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Old 02-25-2010, 05:06 AM   #370
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could you maybe post a pic of thermowell deal of putting the thermocouple in the hlt?

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