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Old 06-09-2009, 04:19 PM   #271
illin8
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Pol's right, its all about pressure really...a one foot change in water height (from inlet to outlet) will result in 0.433 psi change. I don't think the pump output gets compensated by the pressure coming at its inlet, so it will have a hard time pushing that water up 10' because it has 4.33 psi pushing down directly on it. It might help it a little, but I'd doubt it...

The best scenario is to keep the pump just under the outlets of the system to get the least amount of head pressure. Fluid will always flow to the lowest point, it doesn't matter if it's 6" or 60" below (unless you're relying on a siphon).

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Old 06-10-2009, 03:07 AM   #272
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Pol, man, I'm glad I found something to disagree with you on again. I started to think we had a bromance going on.

Let's say the pump is good for 10' max head. If you had two tanks, both level with each other at 10' off the ground and mounted the pump on the ground, the pump does not see any head at all. The weight of the water in the inlet hose equalizes to the weight of the water in the outlet hose and it nulls. Now, once you run out of water in the inlet, it's another story. I dont' know, maybe I'm wrong.

We're never talking about more than a couple feet anyway.

If I have to agree I'll say that QD's on hoses rule, hard plumbing drools.
Hard plumbing drools if you like spilling wort everywhere. I did the QD thing and I am looking forward to hard plumbing.

But thanks for the input on the keg polishing. I am doing that too. I have about 15 projects going at once.
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:11 AM   #273
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Pol - if you're around this weekend I am gonna drop by and pick up my stir motor!
Wife will be here, I will be out on a 4 day trip.
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:13 AM   #274
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Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
Pol, man, I'm glad I found something to disagree with you on again. I started to think we had a bromance going on.

Let's say the pump is good for 10' max head. If you had two tanks, both level with each other at 10' off the ground and mounted the pump on the ground, the pump does not see any head at all. The weight of the water in the inlet hose equalizes to the weight of the water in the outlet hose and it nulls. Now, once you run out of water in the inlet, it's another story. I dont' know, maybe I'm wrong.

We're never talking about more than a couple feet anyway.

If I have to agree I'll say that QD's on hoses rule, hard plumbing drools.

Interesting Bobby... I know when my pump WAS mounted at the bottom of my rig, the flow rate was a lot less. That is all I know from actually doing it.
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Old 06-10-2009, 08:46 PM   #275
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You would get a more accurate reading by using A PID controller and installing your temp sensor on the output of the herms coil.

Thats is what my system is using and i'm dead on.

Also it looks like you are using a 120 volt heater. How long does this take you to get to your mash in temp? I have sanke kegs and I'm using 240 volt 3300 watt element and it takes me almost 1.5 hours to get 13 gallons of sparge water to 154 from 50 degrees.

all of my Kegs are insulated as well. I recently just upgraded to a 4500 watt 240 volt element in my HLT im also using a 4500 in my boil kettle hoping it will make my ramp ups quicker.

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Old 06-10-2009, 09:03 PM   #276
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You would get a more accurate reading by using A PID controller and installing your temp sensor on the output of the herms coil.

Thats is what my system is using and i'm dead on.

Also it looks like you are using a 120 volt heater. How long does this take you to get to your mash in temp? I have sanke kegs and I'm using 240 volt 3300 watt element and it takes me almost 1.5 hours to get 13 gallons of sparge water to 154 from 50 degrees.

all of my Kegs are insulated as well. I recently just upgraded to a 4500 watt 240 volt element in my HLT im also using a 4500 in my boil kettle hoping it will make my ramp ups quicker.

Well I use the HLT to heat my strike water too, I placed the temp probe in the HLT because it was a little easier and it allowed me to more effectively use the HLT for things other than JUST the HERMS recirc. The JCA419 isnt as intelligent as a PID, but for a HERMS that is simply recirculating wort that is ALREADY at the correct mash temp, IMHO a PID is overkill.

My system is dead on, but it took about 30 minutes during my first brew to determine the 3F differential between the HLT temp and desired mash temp. Now I can simly set the differential in the JC controller and set my desired temp. I have a digital thermomter to verify my mash temp is correct, and it is always within .5F or so.

I brew 5 gallon brews, I can heat my water from 60F to 170F in 100 minutes. This is 9.5 gallons in the HLT, since the coil takes up exactly .5 gallons of volume in the vessel.

This being said, I have begun heating my strike water the night prior, so that it is ready to go in a matter of minutes the next morning if I am brewing early. If I am NOT brewing early, I just heat it while I am doing my other work around the house.

My kettle has a 5500W element in it and it seems to work really well for boiling. But the 1500W in the HLT works fine for me, and it was added before I ever intended to go ALL electric and have the 240VAC capability on my rig. I cover that in my other HERMS build thread.
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Old 06-11-2009, 06:31 AM   #277
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Yeah with my system I am simply add say 6-7 gallons on a 10 gallon batch for my mash water in the mash tun then I fill my HLT that also houses my coil for herms to the top close to 12 gallons or so what ever is takes to totally cover my herms coil.

then I start my pump and set my temp to what ever I want my mash temp to be and wait.

As the HLT heats up to my desired temp the water in that mash tun is pumped thru the coil and also heats up. Since I have the temp probe on the out put of my herms coil it keeps the temp in my Mash tun at what ever I set it to.

Once I get to my desired temp and shut the pump off and dough in then turn the pump back on and leave it for 60min.

I have only been doing batch sparges because I only have one pump.

My system is a single tier system. I guess I could put the Boil kettle on the floor and use gravity to do a fly sparge but it seems like a bit of a pain.

I too use my water in the HLT for sparging. I just pump some water in so its over the grain bed a little then give it a stir and pump into the kettle I'll do this a few time until I get the desire amount of wort that I need. Im not big on calculating exact amounts to sparge with. Some guys on here do it but to me it makes no difference.

I think next on my rig im going to implement 2 pumps so I can try fly sparging.

I have 2 240 volt march pumps that I may tie into my rig. hook too switches up to my control panel and tie into the power. I got them on ebay for like 25 dollars for the 2 of them. I do not know what they were used for so I may just run some hot PBW or oyclean thru them before use.

What type of tubing are you using on your rig? I thought it looked like 1/2 braided beverage tubing. That is what I have been using but I have been having problems with kinks. I want to buy some silicone tubing one of these days.

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Old 06-11-2009, 12:42 PM   #278
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You are looking at an old thread here.

My system got an elecrtric boil kettle upgrade, control panel, silicone hoses, sight gauges on the HLT and MLT etc. this past winter. I wasw tired of the stiff braided hoses, and I wanted to have sight gauges to accurately measure water when I make transfers from my HLT to my MLT.

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Old 06-26-2009, 04:31 PM   #279
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I'm close to brewing in my single tier and I've not been able to find an answer to this question. It may be easier than I'm thinking about it(slow on the uptick today). So I'm using HERMS to keep temp in a three keg single tier. Once it's time to pump the 1st running into the bk and sparge, so I continue to cycle with the HERMS and for how long? Or do I just add the sparge to the current wort and continue to cycle? Orrr can I just dough in with all the water needed and cycle???? My head hurts, please help

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Old 06-28-2009, 05:23 AM   #280
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The HERMS circulation is for the mash only up until you get your 1st runnings. After that just use the HLT water w/out circulating. This is for batch sparging.

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South County Brewing Co.
Primaries 1 & 2: Apfelwein
Primary 3: EdWort's Haus Pale Ale
Bottle Conditioning: AHS Oktoberfest, Biermuncher's Centennial Blonde

On deck: Nothing (recently moved/working on the laundry list)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laughing_Gnome_Invisible View Post
Love is not a pink heart on a Hallmark card. It is a curse on mankind in which the male of the species must continually struggle to gain his own happiness by means of satiating the batcrap crazy stupid whims of the lady with the snaky hair.
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