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Old 06-01-2012, 04:44 AM   #1
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Default Natural Gas Brutus/1550 Build Questions

So we are buying a new house, and now the uncertainty begins. I now have a HERMS setup for electric/propane with an E-HLT using 110v and a propane BK. So a lot of the houses I have been looking at/ have a contract in have Natural Gas in the Garage. There are less that have 210v to the garage, which I know can be had for a nominal fee (about 2k in my area). Soo I have been leaning towards Natural Gas. Soo my question is for those that have a HERMS setup with a brutus gas setup. I am not going to have a direct fired MLT as now I have a rubber coated bottom drain keggle that I want to control the temp through the HERMS coil in the HLT controlled by the PID(Auber) and gas solenoid valves. So how do y'all setup the BK? I was thinking that I would have a pilot vlave, and a solenoid valve controlled by a switch for a constant on or off and a ball valve to control gas flow. Is only 1 PID needed? I would like to display the temps on my control panel of the Mash/HLT/BK. Oh and I plan on doing a weldless 1550 design minus the tippy dump, unless I can figure out a way to do that.

Thanks,
-G

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Old 06-01-2012, 11:54 AM   #2
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Well on the BK I just light the burner as no temperature control is needed with an analog thermometer on the front. If you wanted to see the temp on your panel then you could just install a thermowell on the BK and use the sensor from the MLT when you are done with it. As far as no flame on the MLT, I have always heated the strike water directly and then shut of the solenoid valve and let the other solenoid valve on the HLT keep the temp. This way you can heat you water up fast as otherwise I would think it would take forever.

So 2 solenoid valves on the HLT and MLT, 2 temp controllers, and 3 burners all with ball valves and only two with pilot as the BK is lit manually.

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Old 06-01-2012, 04:54 PM   #3
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You can use digital temperature indicators where temperature control is not required. A very low cost alternative for lighting your BK burner is an electronic igniter (the type used for barbeques). Push-button convenience for under $30.
A needle valve is preferred over ball valves due to increased control over your flame. We install needle valves on burners that have gas valves also to dial in the perfect flame.

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Old 06-02-2012, 06:14 AM   #4
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I do like the added security that if the flame does go out, it will turn the valve off so I don't have gas flowing and possibly cause a very bad situation. The HERMS coil is pretty efficient at keeping the heat constant in the MLT. I did insulate the crap out of it, and the rubber coating does help a bit. I just needed a more powerful solution than my current 1500w heating element that takes forever to heat up any significant amount of water. Do y'all know of a decent temp display that can be panel mounted? I do have Analogue temp gauges in all 3 vessels as a reference. I will be installing needle valves after the honeywell solenoids to control the flame.

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-G

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Old 06-02-2012, 04:08 PM   #5
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Love/Dwyers makes several different temperature indicators

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Old 06-06-2012, 05:46 PM   #6
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So after some thought and some digging here is my planned setup. I want to be able to later down the line to be able to switch to electric if I can (house dependent) without it being too painful, and also be able to run on NG or Propane if I buy the proper regulator.

NG setup
2x BG-14 Burners @ $32.49 each Link
2x Natural Gas Valve Orifice @ $7.00 each Link
2x Honeywell VR8200A2132 Standing Pilot Valve @ $60 each Link
2x Honeywell Q390A1046 24" Thermocouple @ $3.50 each Link
2x Honeywell Q314A4586 Pilot Burner @ $17.75 each Link
1x Honeywell AT175A1008 24v 75VA @ $27.95 each Link

Controllers/Panel
2x Auber SYL-2362 @ $42.55 each Link
2x Auber Platinum RTD. PT100 (6 ft. cable) @ $15.65 each Link
1x Auber ASL-51 @ $34.50 each Link

The only switches I plan on having are for my 2 pumps, control panel power, EPO, a on/off for the BK, and a MOA for the HLT.

My thought on these RTD's is that I could easily slide them into thermowells that I have in all 3 vessels to display temp and control the HLT for my HERMS setup.

I think most people go with the screw in type, does anybody have experience with these?

Any input/help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
-G

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Old 06-08-2012, 09:37 PM   #7
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Also how are people lighting their pilot lights?

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Old 06-08-2012, 09:40 PM   #8
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Here is one way that works well.

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Old 06-09-2012, 12:20 AM   #9
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I'm still sticking my face down to burner level and lighting my pilot light torch and then backing it down to a reasonable flame level. It's time for a better igniter.

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Old 06-10-2012, 08:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landshark67 View Post
I'm still sticking my face down to burner level and lighting my pilot light torch and then backing it down to a reasonable flame level. It's time for a better igniter.
That is exactly why I want to get a remote igniter.
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