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Old 02-10-2009, 02:12 PM   #31
floyduww
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Seems Bobby_m was right about the solenoid. Mine are rated for 4-224 PSI not 0 and up. After a bit more reading I have come to the conclusion of getting new solenoids. So I have new solenoids coming STC 2W160 - 1/2. My old ones will work for water (not wort) transfer. As long as they can stand 174 deg water. Hopefully I have it right this time.

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Old 02-10-2009, 09:26 PM   #32
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That was it. I tried the burners without solenoids and now have a fantastic flame. So much so that I will have to move the burners down a bit and or remove some jets.

The New Brewery :: p1010433

Thanks again Bobby_M

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Old 02-11-2009, 01:50 AM   #33
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Does anyone have pics of how they tee'd off for the NG? I have a NG hot water heater in my garage with a gas line comming out of the wall to it. Before the hose leading to the hot water heater there is a ball valve. Could I just close the valve, put a tee in with another ball valve leading to my burner? I would prefer to use NG vs propane, especially witht he prices of that stuff around where I am. Main concern: blowing up the hose

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Old 02-11-2009, 03:39 AM   #34
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My NG pipe to the furnace had a "crap trap" that I removed and replaced with a gas ball valve. The street elbow in the second picture has been replaced with a gas quick-disconnect since this was taken.

I used teflon tape rated for NG.

Check for leaks with soapy water.

I found a ball valve that allows you to take out the screw for the handle, take off and turn the handle 180 deg, and replace in a locked position. Gives a bit of piece of mind that it will not be turned on accidentally.


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Old 02-11-2009, 04:33 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runyank View Post
Does anyone have pics of how they tee'd off for the NG? I have a NG hot water heater in my garage with a gas line comming out of the wall to it. Before the hose leading to the hot water heater there is a ball valve. Could I just close the valve, put a tee in with another ball valve leading to my burner? I would prefer to use NG vs propane, especially witht he prices of that stuff around where I am. Main concern: blowing up the hose
Yes you can do exactly as you describe. If there is another place closer to where you will be brewing, I would "T" as close as possible so that you have the shortest path. You can close the valve that is on your gas meter that supplies your whole house, that's what I did.

And I do exactly as above, I put a cap in place when its not in use just as a piece of mind in case the valve were to leak.
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Old 02-11-2009, 01:19 PM   #36
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For the above connection you should use a "T" instead of an elbow, and put another "drip leg" in. The plumber that helped me run my gas lines for my brewery and dryer told me that anytime you have a vertical run like that you should have a "Drip Leg' or "crap trap"

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Old 02-11-2009, 05:51 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mykayel View Post
Yes you can do exactly as you describe. If there is another place closer to where you will be brewing, I would "T" as close as possible so that you have the shortest path. You can close the valve that is on your gas meter that supplies your whole house, that's what I did.

And I do exactly as above, I put a cap in place when its not in use just as a piece of mind in case the valve were to leak.
Now... what kind of burner should I get? Will a boyou classic work with NG without any modifications?
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Old 02-11-2009, 05:54 PM   #38
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I have the same burner as above, never used that I can sell.

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Old 02-11-2009, 05:59 PM   #39
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I have the same burner as above, never used that I can sell.
Which burner do you have? The one the OP has? If so, do you have a stand? PM me if you would like.
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Old 02-11-2009, 06:16 PM   #40
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I do not have a stand, but it is that burner that the OP has.

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