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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Natural gas brew stand - 23 tip burner to 10 tip conversion build.
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:41 PM   #21
Bobby_M
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... You have to run it low, makes it a little sooty, but works great!
I think orange flame sootiness is contradictory to "works great" though. That's why you need to plug like 15 of those tips... so you can run the pressure higher so the tips that are left pull a good flame.
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Old 12-03-2008, 10:27 PM   #22
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I used the following:

Drillspot.com:
Honeywell Q314A6094 Pilot Burner $23.32
White Rodgers 764-742 Gas Pilot Safety Valve $68.45
Honeywell Q340A1066 Thermocouple $6.62

Fremont Industrial Supply:
STC 2 way normally closed solenoid valve, 1/2" npt 120/60 volts AC
STC 1/2: NPT $46.20

Maxitrol regulator:
BURNERPARTS.COM -Buy Parts Online! - 1/2" NPT GAS PRESSURE REGULATOR,

Here's a picture in the Brutus 10 thread:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/909663-post429.html

Oops on the pressure - that was 3.5 inches, not pounds.

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Old 12-04-2008, 01:49 AM   #23
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Low pressure NG is .5 psi and high pressure is 2 psi. If the piping that comes off of your meter is small chances are you have high pressure and there is a .5 psi regulator in the house. WTF does "contractory" mean?

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Old 12-04-2008, 01:59 AM   #24
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I think orange flame sootiness is contractory to "works great" though. That's why you need to plug like 15 of those tips... so you can run the pressure higher so the tips that are left pull a good flame.
I've been making some improvements to my rig, one of the things left to do is plug some tips. My other projects have been Bobby_M sight glasses and thermometers on HLT and Keggle, and a CF Chiller.
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:09 AM   #25
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I occassionaly still get some orange flame from what I'd call "CO pillowing" under the keg skirt. Let me know if you have any problems with that due to the enclosed wind shielding after like 10 minutes of boiling.
I had that very problem, it was a real fine art finding the balance between blocking the wind and not oxygen-starving the burner. I invariably lost that battle, and ended up with a sooty kettle every time.

I'm so happy to have moved on past those jet burners, and I should look into finding a new home for them. My new hurricane is ferociously hot, and burns squeaky clean!

Love the OP's burner stand though...I've got some angle iron, and a cheap wire-welder. It's enough to get a guy thinking.
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Old 12-06-2008, 10:37 PM   #26
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Well I did my first brew with it today. I didn't have any issues with soot or the "CO Pillowing" as far as I could tell. I think with having the burner far enough down that it gets rid of these issues. Today was also a rather windy day and the wind screen worked fine. Another point about the wind screen, I think that leaving the 1/2" gap at the top allows the flow of the air from the bottom up releaving the "CO Pillowing" effect. My pilot didn't work very well, while heating my mash water, if I had it turned down rather low, the wind would be enought to blow it out, and if I turned it up, it worked fine but it did produce soot. I'll have to find a real pilot or go back to one of my original ideas of using a push button spark type of ignitor (I had bought a generic replacement part at lowes but it didn't end up working for how I wanted to use it). So I just use my little push button butane stick light as I normally would have done with propane.

My original boil volume was right at 13.0 gallons and it took 33 minutes to bring it up to boil from the 165ish that it was from the sparge (air temp at 38F with steady 10mph winds). Not the most impressive but it definately works for me. I never timed what it took with propane, but just subjectively it seemed very similar. It was very easy to adjust down to get a steady boil. I thought about it halfway through the boil, so I'll have to do it next time, but I want to check how much natural gas I acturally used.

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Old 12-06-2008, 11:58 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Boss View Post
Low pressure NG is .5 psi and high pressure is 2 psi. If the piping that comes off of your meter is small chances are you have high pressure and there is a .5 psi regulator in the house. WTF does "contractory" mean?
Contractory is a horribly mispelled version of contradictory. Sounds like a cool word though.
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Old 02-10-2009, 12:57 AM   #28
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I am having some issues with my Natural Gas setup. And hope one of you can help. I can't even boil a gallon of water. Highest temp I have been able to reach is 190 deg.

I have 2 32 tip burners and 1 23 tip burner. I have narrowed my testing to have only the 23 tip burner on. The flames from all the burners even when run individually is very week. The 23 tip has the strongest flame.

There is 3/4 pipe running till the last drop the the stand. Then it is 1/2 all the way. Except for the two 32 tip burners have 3/4 pipe for the last 6 inches.

I am probably going to replace the 32 tips with 23 tips as I seem to get better flame out of them.

But I need help trying to figure out why I cannot bring 1 gallon of water to a boil with a 23 tip burner. I know this works, I just need to get it to work for me.

Here is a link to pictures of the stand and gas components.

The New Brewery :: Image0002

Thank you anyone for your help.

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Old 02-10-2009, 02:09 AM   #29
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There's a chance you got burners rated for propane which would have smaller orifices in the tips. The flames look really weak but I'm surprised how clean and blue they are for being so low. I can't turn mine down that low. Have you tested the burners directly off the gas line with no solenoid valves upstream?

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Old 02-10-2009, 02:26 AM   #30
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I have not tried connecting them directly to the gas line. But I will, sounds like a good idea.

Here are the burners that I ordered. I don't think they have them from this store in propane.

23 Tip Round Nozzle Jet Burner (natural gas) - CHINESE WOK RANGES - RANGES - EQUIPMENT and
http://www.cpapc.com/32-Tip-Round-No...-P470C244.aspx

But if the direct gas hook up does not work then I may call them to see if I did get the wrong item.

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