Natural gas brew stand - 23 tip burner to 10 tip conversion build. - Page 3

**Bobby_M** · 12-03-2008, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D-Boss

... You have to run it low, makes it a little sooty, but works great!

I think orange flame sootiness is contradictory to "works great" though. That's why you need to plug like 15 of those tips... so you can run the pressure higher so the tips that are left pull a good flame.

**jcryan2** · 12-03-2008, 10:27 PM

I used the following:

Drillspot.com:
Honeywell Q314A6094 Pilot Burner $23.32
White Rodgers 764-742 Gas Pilot Safety Valve $68.45
Honeywell Q340A1066 Thermocouple $6.62

Fremont Industrial Supply:
STC 2 way normally closed solenoid valve, 1/2" npt 120/60 volts AC
STC 1/2: NPT $46.20

Maxitrol regulator:
BURNERPARTS.COM -Buy Parts Online! - 1/2" NPT GAS PRESSURE REGULATOR,

Here's a picture in the Brutus 10 thread:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/909663-post429.html

Oops on the pressure - that was 3.5 inches, not pounds.

D-Boss · 12-04-2008, 01:49 AM

Low pressure NG is .5 psi and high pressure is 2 psi. If the piping that comes off of your meter is small chances are you have high pressure and there is a .5 psi regulator in the house. WTF does "contractory" mean?

D-Boss · 12-04-2008, 01:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby_M

I think orange flame sootiness is contractory to "works great" though. That's why you need to plug like 15 of those tips... so you can run the pressure higher so the tips that are left pull a good flame.

I've been making some improvements to my rig, one of the things left to do is plug some tips. My other projects have been Bobby_M sight glasses and thermometers on HLT and Keggle, and a CF Chiller.

**BlindLemonLars** · 12-04-2008, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobby_M

I occassionaly still get some orange flame from what I'd call "CO pillowing" under the keg skirt. Let me know if you have any problems with that due to the enclosed wind shielding after like 10 minutes of boiling.

I had that very problem, it was a real fine art finding the balance between blocking the wind and not oxygen-starving the burner. I invariably lost that battle, and ended up with a sooty kettle every time.

I'm so happy to have moved on past those jet burners, and I should look into finding a new home for them. My new hurricane is ferociously hot, and burns squeaky clean!

Love the OP's burner stand though...I've got some angle iron, and a cheap wire-welder. It's enough to get a guy thinking.

mykayel · 12-06-2008, 10:37 PM

Well I did my first brew with it today. I didn't have any issues with soot or the "CO Pillowing" as far as I could tell. I think with having the burner far enough down that it gets rid of these issues. Today was also a rather windy day and the wind screen worked fine. Another point about the wind screen, I think that leaving the 1/2" gap at the top allows the flow of the air from the bottom up releaving the "CO Pillowing" effect. My pilot didn't work very well, while heating my mash water, if I had it turned down rather low, the wind would be enought to blow it out, and if I turned it up, it worked fine but it did produce soot. I'll have to find a real pilot or go back to one of my original ideas of using a push button spark type of ignitor (I had bought a generic replacement part at lowes but it didn't end up working for how I wanted to use it). So I just use my little push button butane stick light as I normally would have done with propane.

My original boil volume was right at 13.0 gallons and it took 33 minutes to bring it up to boil from the 165ish that it was from the sparge (air temp at 38F with steady 10mph winds). Not the most impressive but it definately works for me. I never timed what it took with propane, but just subjectively it seemed very similar. It was very easy to adjust down to get a steady boil. I thought about it halfway through the boil, so I'll have to do it next time, but I want to check how much natural gas I acturally used.

**Bobby_M** · 12-06-2008, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D-Boss

Low pressure NG is .5 psi and high pressure is 2 psi. If the piping that comes off of your meter is small chances are you have high pressure and there is a .5 psi regulator in the house. WTF does "contractory" mean?

Contractory is a horribly mispelled version of contradictory. Sounds like a cool word though.

12-04-2008, 01:49 AM	#23 (permalink)
D-Boss Member Recipes Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Eagle Ne Posts: 40	Low pressure NG is .5 psi and high pressure is 2 psi. If the piping that comes off of your meter is small chances are you have high pressure and there is a .5 psi regulator in the house. WTF does "contractory" mean? Last edited by D-Boss : 12-04-2008 at 01:53 AM.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

12-03-2008, 10:27 PM	#22 (permalink)
jcryan2 Junior Member Recipes Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 14 jcryan2's Gallery	I used the following: Drillspot.com: Honeywell Q314A6094 Pilot Burner $23.32 White Rodgers 764-742 Gas Pilot Safety Valve $68.45 Honeywell Q340A1066 Thermocouple $6.62 Fremont Industrial Supply: STC 2 way normally closed solenoid valve, 1/2" npt 120/60 volts AC STC 1/2: NPT $46.20 Maxitrol regulator: BURNERPARTS.COM -Buy Parts Online! - 1/2" NPT GAS PRESSURE REGULATOR, Here's a picture in the Brutus 10 thread: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/909663-post429.html Oops on the pressure - that was 3.5 inches, not pounds.

12-06-2008, 10:37 PM	#26 (permalink)
mykayel Senior Member Recipes Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 171	Well I did my first brew with it today. I didn't have any issues with soot or the "CO Pillowing" as far as I could tell. I think with having the burner far enough down that it gets rid of these issues. Today was also a rather windy day and the wind screen worked fine. Another point about the wind screen, I think that leaving the 1/2" gap at the top allows the flow of the air from the bottom up releaving the "CO Pillowing" effect. My pilot didn't work very well, while heating my mash water, if I had it turned down rather low, the wind would be enought to blow it out, and if I turned it up, it worked fine but it did produce soot. I'll have to find a real pilot or go back to one of my original ideas of using a push button spark type of ignitor (I had bought a generic replacement part at lowes but it didn't end up working for how I wanted to use it). So I just use my little push button butane stick light as I normally would have done with propane. My original boil volume was right at 13.0 gallons and it took 33 minutes to bring it up to boil from the 165ish that it was from the sparge (air temp at 38F with steady 10mph winds). Not the most impressive but it definately works for me. I never timed what it took with propane, but just subjectively it seemed very similar. It was very easy to adjust down to get a steady boil. I thought about it halfway through the boil, so I'll have to do it next time, but I want to check how much natural gas I acturally used.