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Old 04-27-2010, 01:11 AM   #101
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... and all of that soot is from before I drilled the holes right through the top of the stand. Since I've done that, I don't get any soot and the burners are burning pretty cleanly. They're tossing a ton of heat but like I was saying before, those are 32 tips and I'm not scorching anything... even on really long boils. I did a two+ hour boil this past weekend.


... it's a little frustrating because I've seen a bunch of people on these forums tell other people and then tell me that you can't dial those burners down. Ehhh.... there's a picture of it.

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Old 04-27-2010, 12:24 PM   #102
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Thanks for the pics Cape. Nice looking flames.
So when you refer to your Honeywell valves, would those be pressure regulators? I've been researching these burners, and from what I've seen and read, it would seem they do, in fact, require regulators to operate properly.

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Old 04-27-2010, 12:45 PM   #103
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I have two honeywell valves that, my understanding is, they regulate volume not really pressure. Natural gas is pumped into your house at only a couple PSI so it's not really a pressure issue... unless you are using nat. gas from a tank or something... but I have mine plumbed directly into my house's nat. gas supply.

I have one valve for each burner without any other regulators.


And just to beat folks to the punch that might ask, "if the valves are just controlling volume/flow, why have them? Why not just use a ball valve?"

Because I have my burners on pilots and also control them through PID temp controllers. I set a temp on a PID and they, through the use of the Honeywell valves, click the burners on and off in order to maintain a constant temp.

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Old 04-27-2010, 01:43 PM   #104
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Couldn't you use a ball valve anyway?

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Old 04-27-2010, 01:56 PM   #105
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For what purpose? The valves I'm using are, in practice, electronically controlled ball valves. I wanted my valves to electronically turn on and shut off gas flow off to the burners while keeping the pilot lit. How would you do that with a regular ball valve? Or why would you use a regular ball valve in addition to that?

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Old 04-27-2010, 02:25 PM   #106
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I think most valves have pressure regulation built in. I did a quick search and, while YMMV, all the Honeywell valves I've looked at regulate to 3.5" WC.

Just about every appliance has some kind of pressure regulation. I believe that typical household pressure runs around 7" WC. Seems that GFA furnaces typically run at a manifold pressure of 3.5" WC (hence the setting on the Honeywell valves). A quick check of my furnace confirms this, while my water heater calls for a manifold pressure of 4" WC. I think a typical gas range will run in the area of 4"-5" WC.

It would take some digging, but somewhere on here there is a thread where this subject came up. Someone, who sounded a lot more knowledgeable than I, said the reason people weren't getting good results with these burners was due to running them at line pressure. This would certainly explain why you have a nice and adjustable flame, while others struggle to get acceptable results.

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Old 04-27-2010, 03:00 PM   #107
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I think you're right. It is a lot different than propane at something like 30 psi and I'm sure you're right that these valves knock down the PSI slightly.

My confusion though is... the valves I have aren't some crazy-fancy or expensive valves... I don't understand why there are a slew of people that are adamant that you can't dial these burners down. You can and it doesn't take much (it seems to me) to do so.

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Old 04-27-2010, 03:01 PM   #108
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PS. Jeeeesus my garage is a dump. I didn't think it was that bad but daaaaaaaaamn, those pics make it look like Sanford and Son

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Old 04-27-2010, 04:11 PM   #109
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For what purpose? The valves I'm using are, in practice, electronically controlled ball valves. I wanted my valves to electronically turn on and shut off gas flow off to the burners while keeping the pilot lit. How would you do that with a regular ball valve? Or why would you use a regular ball valve in addition to that?
I apologize for not understanding your setup. The way I meant to word my question was could someone use a ball valve to regulate the amount of NG volume/flow? It may not be as accurate as a needle valve. I have ASCO valves to open and close the flow completely but not to regulate the flow.
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Old 04-27-2010, 04:31 PM   #110
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No problem... I just didn't know what you meant.

And unfortunately, I'm not 100% sure either way. Like we were just bouncing around, I think the valves I have DO act as regulators and knock down the PSI a bit (like Chris was just saying).

You obviously won't get that capability from a ball valve or the ASCO valves you're talking about (it sounds like... if they are just opening and closing).

All of that said, BobbyM shows a pretty decent blue flame earlier in the this htread with just a ball valve (that I could see).

... but it seems he had to plug a bunch of jets to get the burner managable.

when I get home tonight I'll see if I can find the part # on my valves... that would probably help a lot.

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