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Old 02-05-2013, 08:17 PM   #91
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No, bad idea. Induction plates have controller boards, they aren't like heating elements. Once you cut the power to the plate, you kill the controller board. When it cuts back on, you'll have to wait for it to complete it's start up cycle, then put the set point temperature back in. You could attempt to replace the controller board entirely, but you'd have to design a PID that can drive a PWM circuit that will in turn drive a MOSFET into some scary current ranges for the home tinkerer (around 100A p-p). Also, you'll find that the magnetic field generated sometimes can do weird things to your thermometer and make accurate readings difficult.

Source: I tried working on this problem for 6 months before giving up.
Well then what is this guy using for his HLT on his HERMS system? Looks like an inducting plate to me?

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Old 02-05-2013, 09:26 PM   #92
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Well then what is this guy using for his HLT on his HERMS system? Looks like an inducting plate to me?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbbJRyhaAa0
Rewatch the video and reread the comments. The plate under the HLT is a standard electric hot plate. It's not induction. The only induction plate in this system is the BK, which doesn't need a PID to control it.

I maintain my original comment that you aren't going to use an induction plate and a PID unless you're a EE and down to design some fancy circuits.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:27 PM   #93
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In this case, cheaper is better. A manual thermostat and power control will work, but an electronic control probably will not. If it you can cycle the power (unplug and plug it back in) without resetting controls then it should be fine for PID controller.

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Old 02-05-2013, 09:34 PM   #94
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I think the PID is hooked up to an ordinary electric hot plate that he uses for his mash recirculation system and the induction plate he uses for the boil isn't hooked up to the PID. Pretty cool system though.

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Old 02-05-2013, 09:35 PM   #95
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Rewatch the video and reread the comments. The plate under the HLT is a standard electric hot plate. It's not induction. The only induction plate in this system is the BK, which doesn't need a PID to control it.

I maintain my original comment that you aren't going to use an induction plate and a PID unless you're a EE and down to design some fancy circuits.
I must have missed that. I'm wasn't saying you're wrong as I've never used an induction plate but my basing was on that video and figuring it was an induction plate under his HLT.

Todd don't do my idea it won't work I guess lol
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:39 PM   #96
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I must have missed that. I'm wasn't saying you're wrong as I've never used an induction plate but my basing was on that video and figuring it was an induction plate under his HLT.

Todd don't do my idea it won't work I guess lol
No worries. That video was the reason I started working on some kind of controller circuit for induction brewing. I failed miserably. I hope someone smarter than me can eventually figure it out.
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:01 PM   #97
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No worries. That video was the reason I started working on some kind of controller circuit for induction brewing. I failed miserably. I hope someone smarter than me can eventually figure it out.
I haven't worked on one of these things in years but it seems simply cutting one of the power leads to the pod should work. Again, it's been years since I worked on one of these things. They turned out to be real pigs, at least the earlier models. I had one dealer that still had some unsold in stock some 10 years later.
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:11 PM   #98
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Just brewed a batch today, 80% efficiency! Pretty much the same malt bill as a previous batch but the grains were milled at .035 instead of .045 and I think it made a big difference. Turned my APA of 1.050 into an extra APA of 1.057. Next time I'll try and split the difference and set my efficiency at 75% instead of 70%.

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Old 02-07-2013, 09:26 PM   #99
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Just brewed a batch today, 80% efficiency! Pretty much the same malt bill as a previous batch but the grains were milled at .035 instead of .045 and I think it made a big difference. Turned my APA of 1.050 into an extra APA of 1.057. Next time I'll try and split the difference and set my efficiency at 75% instead of 70%.
It was mentioned earlier that you just drop your wort chiller into the wort 15 minutes before your boil ended. Have you done this? If so I'm thinking I'll model my upcoming set up on your design.

I've been banished to the garage after a remodel of the kitchen all because of one boil over. Bah! Anyway, I need to keep my space to an extreme minimum so an "all in one" system or as close to would benefit me tremendously. Especially since I'd like to get to BIAB.
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Old 02-08-2013, 12:34 AM   #100
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It was mentioned earlier that you just drop your wort chiller into the wort 15 minutes before your boil ended. Have you done this? If so I'm thinking I'll model my upcoming set up on your design.

I've been banished to the garage after a remodel of the kitchen all because of one boil over. Bah! Anyway, I need to keep my space to an extreme minimum so an "all in one" system or as close to would benefit me tremendously. Especially since I'd like to get to BIAB.
Yes, I use to stick my chiller in the boiling wort about 15 minutes before the end but now I just wait till flame out because the boil stops as soon as you stick all that relatively cooler copper in there and I feel if you just spray your chiller with some starsan and stick it in at FO it should be fine.

I've been banished from the kitchen many years ago so I feel your pain. This system works great in my basement but I also have a water source, large tub and drain so I don't have to trash the upstairs kitchen.
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