My coffee can STC-1000 build

I decided it was time to upgrade my Homebrew system, so I opted to make a fermentation chamber. Here is my stc-1000 build. Thanks to Revvy for posting the diagram https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/stc-1000-wiring-333680/. There are 3 outlets. Always on, heat, and cold. I wanted to make it as cheaply as I could. STC-1000 $16.40, Power cable was from old computer $0.00, surge strip $3.97, wire connectors $2.28, 14awg wire 3 pkgs @ $4.96 ea (but they were 17' each so I have a LOT left for future projects), coffee can $0.00. Outlets $0.99 ea. Total with all wire included = $42.93 with tax. Chest freezer was $50.00. Total fermentation chamber build was $92.93.

This is gloriously ghetto! You need to get a corona mill and join the fun over in the Ugly Junk thread!

Props on making it work.

Frankly, that's quite frightening.

A few closeup photos of the interior and exterior would verify, or invalidate, my fears.

As requested. Any issues I need to fix? I really have zero experience in this type of thing.

It's a little "shaky" ,but it'll work I guess.
You might want to at least mount your outlets from the inside, that way it will put the side terminals a little further away from your fingers, like when you pick up the unit and the sides flex in.

Go through some of the posts on the issue, and see the enclosures others have used, that would be a little safer.

Plastic, rigid junction boxes and electrical outlet boxes are available at your home improvement stores for not much moolah, and there are even pics posted there to show you what the boxes are used for.

If you have it up and running like you like, just transfer it over.


Edit: What you have there can be easily crushed, and accidents do happen!

Yeah, I do intend to transfer it over to something more rigid eventually.

I agree with Stealthcruiser's comments.

The exposed terminals are an accident waiting to happen. Mount from inside, with nuts (not plastic screw retainer) and attach cover plates.

The sides of the canister will flex when inserting plugs, which may lead to opening the lid and holding the receptacle from behind, which will expose the user to shock potential from the terminals and wiring (see below).

The 17' 14AWG wire you mentioned sounds alot like this primary wire. If it is, it's only rated for 60volts and should not be used in this application.

The incoming power cord must have some kind of strain relief but can't tell if there is one.

Be sure to plug this thing into a functional GFCI protected receptacle.

I got the 14 AWG by suggestion from another thread. As I mentioned, I am new to this sort of thing so I greatly appreciate the constructive criticism. The coffee can is a very temporary thing just to get it together to see if the freezer / controller worked and for the novelty of making something unique. What kind of wire should I use? By strain relief I assume you mean to hold it in place? If so, no. I intentionally drilled a small hole for that cord so it fits snugly, but if pulled hard, of course, it would pull through. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

If ya' look around at some of the boxes I mentioned in your home improvement store, you will find some with a "strain relief" as part of the enclosure.
The strain relief will be where the wire comes into the enclosure, and will pass through a clamp that you can tighten down on the wire, where the can't be pulled out.
There is also a strain relief that can be added to an enclosure that has a "knockout" plug in the enclosure.
As the name implies, you knock it out, to run the wire through.
Install the strain relief, ( slip it in the "knockout" hole), and put the nut on the inside to hold it in place.
Pass the wire through this, and tighten the clamp.

Ok. I definitely plan to put it in a proper enclosure soon. When I do, what kind of wire should I use instead of the 14 awg I currently have in place?

I think, that your 14 ga. wire will work fine, though the more electrically oriented types might pipe up and concur or dispel.

Stealthcruiser said:

I think, that your 14 ga. wire will work fine, though the more electrically oriented types might pipe up and concur or dispel.

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As I mentioned in an earlier post, if the wire is the "primary wire" I linked to, it's not appropriate to use it for 120vac.

Raouliii , it is the exact wire you linked. My wife picked out up for me at Home Depot. Is there a certain kind I should look for.

jrowland74 said:

Raouliii , it is the exact wire you linked. My wife picked out up for me at Home Depot. Is there a certain kind I should look for.

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Home Depot carries stranded 14awg THHN wire by the foot like this. White and green as well. Rated at 600volts instead of 60volts.

jrowland74 said:

Yeah, I do intend to transfer it over to something more rigid eventually.

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In the meantime, wrap a few turns of electrical tape around the body of each of those outlets to cover the screws. That way if you grab the unit and the plastic flexes you won't risk touching a live terminal.

Ok I'll do that. So far the canister doesn't flex. It's the folgers tub with a recessed handle. It's pretty rigid, but I'll take the steps to ensure safety. Thanks for all the help!