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Old 03-11-2011, 05:30 PM   #11
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I put a mark with a Sharpie on the shaft right in front of a flat spot, then another mark on the drill chuck inline with one of the jaws in the chuck. Just line up the marks and tighten down the chuck. This way you will always have the jaws on the three flat spots of the mills shaft.

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Old 03-11-2011, 05:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Bitterbrush View Post
I put a mark with a Sharpie on the shaft right in front of a flat spot, then another mark on the drill chuck inline with one of the jaws in the chuck. Just line up the marks and tighten down the chuck. This way you will always have the jaws on the three flat spots of the mills shaft.
Ditto!
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:51 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by kds1398 View Post
I didn't leave the drill attached only because I was concerned that the weight pulling on the shaft all the time might deform it.
IMO, it's not good to have the weight of the drill motor hanging from the shaft. The biggest concern I would have is that it would cause premature and excessive wear on the roller bushings. Support the drill motor however you can.
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:52 PM   #14
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I have an old Craftsmen version of that drill. I've had times when I tightened large bits on that chuck and cursed up a storm trying to loosen it when done. For $40 I'd try to set and forget if you can.
+1 That's the ticket!
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:04 PM   #15
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Keith,

I would suggest removing the drive roller, and putting it in your bench vice, and filing the three flats out flat again, and possibly widening them slightly. Try to make them all the same width. Then when you chuck up the drill, make sure that the fingers of the chuck are on the flats. It never should slip if the fingers are on the flats, and the chuck is tight.

~~fred francis
Monster Brewing Hardware
I filed the flats down a bit, marked the center of the fingers in the chuck, & cranked it on really tight after lining the flats up with the fingers in the chuck. I went around several times & tightened the chuck as much as possible. I won't be able to see if this is the fix yet because I'm not brewing anything for another 3 weeks. With the drill I'm using, it appears the fingers don't have much of a flat spot like my other drill. I plan to re-tighten every time I mill going forward & leave the drill attached all the time. I also found a book the perfect size to rest the drill on for support during storage so I don't warp the drive shaft from having the drill hanging off it all the time. Thanks to everyone that replied for the assistance. I'll let you know how it works out next time I mill.
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:44 PM   #16
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I finally got to use the mill again this weekend. It mowed through 15.5 pounds of grain with ease. Loving the MM-3.

Filing the flats down a bit to widen them, marking the fingers of the chuck, and going out of my way to go around the drill several times & really crank down to tighten the chuck seems to have been resolved the issue. No slippage at all this time. After milling the grain, the marks I made on the chuck for the fingers were still aligned with the flats on the drive shaft.

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Old 10-09-2012, 05:51 PM   #17
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I hate to necro an older thread, but I can't seem to find what i'm looking for, and this thread is on the same subject. I'm having issues getting my drill chuck tight enough around the end of the handle on my grain mill. I mounted it on the top of a cabinet I built myself, and the way my drill attaches, it's darn near impossible for me to get my hand around the end of the keyless chuck in order to really get it tight. Also, the end of the drive shaft on my mill doesn't have flats ground into it, it just has a small cut out where the handle was attached with a set screw. I'll include a picture.

My question is, does anyone make or carry an attachment that would use a set screw to clamp onto the end of the drive shaft, and adapt it to a hex drill bit that my poor Ryobi HD special drill can get some torque on?



The cabinet itself.

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Old 10-14-2012, 02:51 AM   #18
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there used to be an attachment that was used as a drill bit extension.
the end was about 1/2-3/4" in diameter with a cupped set screw in it.
you could set screw a drill bit in it to reach an area where normally the shorter drill would be unable to reach like in a hollow wall to drill thru a stud.

why couldn't the drill end be set screwed onto the roller drive of the mill with the cupped set screw biting into the flat and then cut the shaft to a usable length and attach your drill to it . if the drill ever slipped it would damage the extension and not the mill roller shaft.

just an idea


GD51

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Old 10-14-2012, 03:26 AM   #19
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That would be perfect if I could find one. So far I haven't had any luck at Home Depot, Lowe's, or Harbor Freight. I'm going to start checking smaller hardware stores because I really don't want to destroy the drive shaft on this mill, no to mention the metal shavings in close proximity to my grains.

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Old 10-14-2012, 03:50 AM   #20
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Try grinding 3 flats on the shaft, using a small grinding bit available from home depot. Those flats will let the drill chuck get a better hold of the drive shaft and present slipping.

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