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Old 03-11-2011, 02:47 PM   #1
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Default Monster Mill mm-3 drive shaft wear

I emailed Fred about this & am waiting for a reply. I was wondering if anyone experienced a similar issue.

After both times I ran the mill using a 1/2" drill to drive it there were bits of metal shavings on the drive shaft. It appears the drill is slipping enough that it is causing an issue and wearing the shaft down enough that the area normally inside the chuck is ~1/2mm smaller in diameter. The three flats are barely there on the shaft. I am cranking the chuck on the drill as tight as i can and it is still slipping.

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Old 03-11-2011, 03:01 PM   #2
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I have the MM3-2 and I had some slippage at first but that was due to the fact I was not centered on the flat. I think you could take a dremel and grind down the flat so they are a bit more prominent.

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Old 03-11-2011, 03:04 PM   #3
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I'm gonna guess that you are using a drill with a keyless chuck. The best way to tighten this type of chuck is to set the clutch just below the highest setting then pull the trigger while holding the nose of the chuck. You want to use the highest setting that will still allow the clutch to chatter. The effect is somewhat like an impact wrench and it will tighten the chuck much more firmly than what you can do by hand only. The problem you are experiencing is due to the chuck slipping on the drive shaft. If you happen to be using a keyed chuck, you can use a nail set or chisel and a hammer to tap the toothed outer ring on the chuck (in the right direction, of course) to tighten it more firmly.

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Old 03-11-2011, 03:15 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Catt22 View Post
I'm gonna guess that you are using a drill with a keyless chuck. The best way to tighten this type of chuck is to set the clutch just below the highest setting then pull the trigger while holding the nose of the chuck. You want to use the highest setting that will still allow the clutch to chatter. The effect is somewhat like an impact wrench and it will tighten the chuck much more firmly than what you can do by hand only. The problem you are experiencing is due to the chuck slipping on the drive shaft. If you happen to be using a keyed chuck, you can use a nail set or chisel and a hammer to tap the toothed outer ring on the chuck (in the right direction, of course) to tighten it more firmly.
Keyed chuck. This drill: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills/1-2-half-inch-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-93632.html
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:27 PM   #5
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Good choice on that drill. I just helped my buddy rig up his mill with the same drill. You may already know this, but it works best to use all three holes in the chuck when tightening. Grab the chuck key with some vice grips to apply more torque if necessary. I like to use the tapping method with a nail set to really get it snugged down firmly.
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:30 PM   #6
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Good choice on that drill. I just helped my buddy rig up his mill with the same drill. You may already know this, but it works best to use all three holes in the chuck when tightening. Grab the chuck key with some vice grips to apply more torque if necessary. I like to use the tapping method with a nail set to really get is snugged down firmly.
I didn't know to use all three holes when tightening. Do you think I should just leave the drill attached to the mill after trying to get it tightened up more? What is the tapping method?
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:50 PM   #7
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I have that same drill, I will post a picture later. I have mine mounted on a cabinet and bolted in place with U-Bolts.

I have the drill resting on 2x4 blocks, it took some time to get everything level but its working and I've crushed about 3000# of grain with it already

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Old 03-11-2011, 04:00 PM   #8
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I didn't know to use all three holes when tightening. Do you think I should just leave the drill attached to the mill after trying to get it tightened up more? What is the tapping method?
Yes, use all three holes and go around more than once for max grip. The tapping method is simply using a small hammer and a chisel or nail set to turn the toothed ring on the chuck. Tap it in the same direction as the key would turn it. You may have to repeat the tightening more than once, but eventually it should stay tight. Yes, I would leave the drill permanently attached to the mill if that would be convenient. This would reduce or eliminate having to go through the tightening process every time you use the mill. Use eye protection if you try the hammer and chisel method on the chuck.
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:12 PM   #9
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Yes, use all three holes and go around more than once for max grip. The tapping method is simply using a small hammer and a chisel or nail set to turn the toothed ring on the chuck. Tap it in the same direction as the key would turn it. You may have to repeat the tightening more than once, but eventually it should stay tight. Yes, I would leave the drill permanently attached to the mill if that would be convenient. This would reduce or eliminate having to go through the tightening process every time you use the mill. Use eye protection if you try the hammer and chisel method on the chuck.
I didn't leave the drill attached only because I was concerned that the weight pulling on the shaft all the time might deform it.
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:14 PM   #10
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I have an old Craftsmen version of that drill. I've had times when I tightened large bits on that chuck and cursed up a storm trying to loosen it when done. For $40 I'd try to set and forget if you can.

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