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Old 06-25-2012, 02:24 PM   #61
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For those ordering Buna, what Dura are you ordering 70or 90?

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Old 08-04-2012, 04:35 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by milldoggy View Post
Anyone have any idea what the part number for this oring might be? It is the oversized one for leaky kegs.
http://www.williamsbrewing.com/KEG-LID-SEALING-O-RING-P58C78.aspx
Does any one have an answer for this? I have a keg that leaks around the lid. I can't get it toseal.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:18 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan1979

Does any one have an answer for this? I have a keg that leaks around the lid. I can't get it toseal.
The first post has all the part numbers.
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:21 AM   #64
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Does any one have an answer for this? I have a keg that leaks around the lid. I can't get it toseal.
A leaky lid is usually due to a bent lid or keg rim. A flat surface and a hammer can straighten a lid. Keg rims are tricky but a hammer, a flat punch, and some patience can fix most leaks.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:58 AM   #65
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A leaky lid is usually due to a bent lid or keg rim. A flat surface and a hammer can straighten a lid. Keg rims are tricky but a hammer, a flat punch, and some patience can fix most leaks.
Dead-on! But if you still have a little trouble sealing, use a little extra keg lube on the large lid O-ring (and use the silicone one. It is a bit more pliable than the neoprene ring -I keep both in stock, personally) -but as fifelee wrote, the most important thing you could do would be to straighten out any bends or dents. Get it as clean and like the original shape as you can. It doesn't take much to make a seal fail. One last thing you might try: sometimes the lids' "spring" lock gets a bit worn, and I have had to bend the latch a little more toward the inside to make a stronger amount of pressure against the keg (to hold the lid tighter) but be careful -if you don't do it evenly, you could easily end up with a bigger problem than you started with.
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:39 PM   #66
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Let's not forget about the worn keg lid feet. Much easier to replace than bending the handle.

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Old 08-05-2012, 01:18 PM   #67
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A leaky lid is usually due to a bent lid or keg rim. A flat surface and a hammer can straighten a lid. Keg rims are tricky but a hammer, a flat punch, and some patience can fix most leaks.
Well said.

I wrote some information about this a bunch of years ago. It might help someone with lid sealing problems.

Getting Your Keg Lid To Seal

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Old 08-05-2012, 11:12 PM   #68
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Well said.

I wrote some information about this a bunch of years ago. It might help someone with lid sealing problems.

Getting Your Keg Lid To Seal

P-J
Great info P-J. Testing the lid without a oring is a good idea. I've had many lids that I couldn't even get to fit right with no oring. Seems the oval shape of the lid and keg rim often don't match. Don't know if they are manufactured different or if the keg rim deformations over time. Either way beating on the rim a bit allow the lid to fit freely.
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Old 08-05-2012, 11:55 PM   #69
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Some kegs have one lid that fits them. If I switch lids because I'm cleaning a few at a time they won't seal. Then I have to try each lid on each keg until they all seal. Same with dip tubes. Now I clean one at a time start to finish.

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Old 08-09-2012, 04:35 PM   #70
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A word of warning about poppet o-rings listed above (McMaster 9396K13): they DO NOT work as replacement o-rings in Firestone / Challenger VI poppets. I tried it, and they leaked profusely, so now I have to buy new poppets. And they certainly don't fit the poppets in Cornelius made kegs. Seems that those o-rings only fit "universal poppets" that you can buy as a replacement part.

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