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Old 10-14-2008, 05:32 PM   #11
Medo
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Ahoy hoy,
It is my understanding that the output port must be pointed up for the best performance. you can pull the 4 screws on the in/out head, and turn it to meet your needs. Hope this photo helps
I bid you all a great day.

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Old 10-14-2008, 07:47 PM   #12
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I saw your PM and thought I'd find the thread instead of replying. Input on the bottom, output facing up works for me but.....

The trick to priming is supplying air-free liquid to the inlet and the easiest possible path to purge air out of the outlet. It sounds easier than it is in practice because you'll typically try to get started with both hoses hooked to things. (side note, you don't really need a valve on the inlet side if you have valves on the output of all your vessels.)

Let's say the pump is bone dry and so are your hoses. The input hose comes from your HLT and the output goes to your MLT. Open the pump output ball valve all the way, open the HLT valve all the way. If there's enough head pressure in your HLT, water should flow down and into the pump head driving air up into the outlet hose. Wait a minute or so for the air to work out. Turn the pump on. There's likely to be some trapped air in the head for a minute or two but it should catch and eventually drive out any air bubbles.

My other tip is to pre-prime the pump with your garden hose. I made up a disconnect to hose thread system so I can attach the hose to the input of the pump easily. With the valve open, I push high pressure hose water through until the output is solid water. Close the valve, disconnect the hose, hook up your vessels and away you go.

Maintaining prime is key. Watch to make sure you don't pull air in by shutting the pump output valve just before air gets to the pump housing.

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Old 10-14-2008, 08:01 PM   #13
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awesome, thanks bobby..

did you get those QD's from Mcmaster?

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Old 10-14-2008, 08:18 PM   #14
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Yup, they're called coolant disconnects.

#

Where I got the Thermometers and quick disconnects? The thermometers were scored on Ebay for about $22 each. If you pay more than that, you might as well start looking at digital remote probes. The quick disconnects are from McMaster Carr. Search for items 6739K59 and 6739K68.

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Old 10-14-2008, 09:03 PM   #15
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awesome.. thanks, just bought 3 male and 2 right angle fems

thanks for your help

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Old 10-14-2008, 11:21 PM   #16
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Good lord this is not hard. If the pump is below the vessel and the outlet and inlet are open then liquid should flow through the pump (pump off). When that happens just turn on the pump and whoooooh........ out it comes. If this does not happen then you have valves closed, blocked lines etc. Remember that if the inlet fittings or hose leak air the pump will cavitate and stop pumping liquid.

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Old 10-15-2008, 04:41 PM   #17
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i have problems with my pumps all the time, everything is mounted right but i find my self having to squeeze the lines from the pumps just to keep the flow going (even after it gets primed). also if it weren't for my quick disconnects, these pumps would be almost impossible to operate.

it is very annoying to say at least.

i just dont see how some people who have their lines made of copper, keep their flow going.

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