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Old 02-17-2013, 04:19 PM   #11
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A quick refresher on the workings of induction (asynchronous) motors:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_motor#Starting

Here's the significant passage, which may apply here:
"In certain smaller single-phase motors, starting is done by mean of a shaded pole with a copper wire turn around part of the pole..."

It is hard to tell from that picture, but it looks like there is fat copper wire in the hole next to that "silver box-shaped thing." That could be the starter wire and should be checked for continuity.

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Old 02-17-2013, 04:42 PM   #12
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I don't see this separate wire anywhere (but it's pretty hard to see much of anything in there). But regardless, I don't think it would change my resistance so much. If this starting wire was in series and it was broken, the resistance would be infinite. If the wire was parallel and broken, it wouldn't have an effect on the resistance.

Any ideas of how to get the motor out of the housing? From what I can tell, the housing has little notches punched into it, holding the coil assembly in place. But, there's something else holding it in, or else I would be able to rotate the assembly and pull it out.

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Old 02-17-2013, 04:45 PM   #13
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It's hard to tell, but I THINK that black thing is where the power connects to the coils.

I wish I could pull the whole thing out.

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Old 02-17-2013, 05:12 PM   #14
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The starter wire is usually only one fat winding by itself, and is not connected to the power supply. Induction from the main coil creates a current in the starting wire which creates a secondary (lagged) field that rotates the anchor in that direction. That's how it starts. That one winding gets very hot, a lot of induction current passed through. That silver box thingy may have something to do with it all. Modern technology at play, and without a schematic it is ever so hard to guess.

It may be possible to remove the stator (coil), but it may be even more difficult to secure it later. Looks like the front plate is pressed in.

Any update on the coil resistance yet? Do you have an (old) analog meter you could use instead?

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Old 02-17-2013, 05:28 PM   #15
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I only have a digital meter, and the resistance just goes nuts. And, I can't see well enough into it to see exactly what's going on in there.

Maybe I'll take it to a motor repair place tomorrow.

And GO RAVENS by the way.

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Old 02-17-2013, 06:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImMrAwsome View Post
No. It's an induction "Squirrel-Cage" motor. It has no brushes.
Alright, it's probably an issue with one of the windings, or the bearings. Not much to go wrong with an induction motor. I'd check the resistance on the start winding or see if its shorted to the motor frame.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImMrAwsome View Post
Maybe I'll take it to a motor repair place tomorrow.
Yeah, that maybe the best thing, just keep the diagnosis and repair cost vs replacement in mind. I never thought these motors could burn out before the pump mechanism failed. They look very rugged.

Those Chugger pumps look like a decent alternative. I'd go for the stainless head, looks a lot sturdier. I'm always afraid those plastic housings will crack by sideways forces, NPT fittings, and so on.

I have the feeling the starter winding is at fault, hence it won't start spinning. I measured across the plug both ways, and there is no difference in resistance, pointing to no extra electronics (Semi conductors or capacitors) in the coil circuitry. But that starter winding may be more complicated. The silver box thingy. Did you Google for a schematic or troubleshooting on those kind of motors. They are so simple, really. Is there still some warranty on it?

There is an interesting thread on testing applications of cheap ($22-$38) 12V DC solar pumps:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/chea...mp-375904-new/

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And GO RAVENS by the way.
Not much into sports in general, but that was one weird and exciting game. First I so badly wanted the Niners to catch up to make it more interesting , then when they did, we were really sweating.
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Barrel Aging: Old Treacle Mine
On tap: Belgian Wit {1st place @ Free State Homebrew Guild Wheat Beer Comp.} | Black Butte Porter Clone | Pocahontas Pumpkin Ale
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