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Old 08-21-2007, 01:44 AM   #1
ChrisS
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Default manifold for cooler

I am looking at getting the stuff I need for AG brewing and after looking at the DIY MLT project on here I have a question about manifolds.

If I decided to go the route described in How to brew with copper pipe with slits in it, can this pipe be sodered (sp?) together and if so is there a special soder I need. Does it even need to be sodered at all? I have only done limited pipe work using lead soder.



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Old 08-21-2007, 02:07 AM   #2
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Some people have partially soldered their manifolds. Mine is just dry fit together so I can pull it apart to clean easier. I can only speak from my experience but I've had no problems with it. You would use the same solder for this that you would use on water supply pipes, something that is save for potable water.



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Old 08-21-2007, 12:22 PM   #3
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I used cpvc for my manifold. Easier to work with than copper and cheaper. I found slits to be a pain to make, so I drilled a bunch of small holes...no need to glue them together or worry about sweating copper together.


Here is the finished product:

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Old 08-21-2007, 01:23 PM   #4
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I went with the copper tube and I sodered the one end pieces and left the main (long tubes) just a slip fit so I can take it apart and clean it. I also left the end by the drain slip fit so I can rotate it up and get the system in and out easier.
I can drain 5 gallons of water in 30 sec.

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Old 08-21-2007, 09:21 PM   #5
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I had my friction fit DIY hopstopper come apart once, what a f$%^ing mess! So when I did my mash tun manifold, I match drilled the slip joints with a small (3/32?) hole and safety wire each joint together. It will absolutely not come apart when I don't want it to, yet is easy to disassemble and clean.

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Old 08-21-2007, 09:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raceskier
I had my friction fit DIY hopstopper come apart once, what a f$%^ing mess! So when I did my mash tun manifold, I match drilled the slip joints with a small (3/32?) hole and safety wire each joint together. It will absolutely not come apart when I don't want it to, yet is easy to disassemble and clean.
That's a great idea, I should do that on my manifold... I've been using teflon tape but I like the idea of a pin or wire better.
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1f1fan
I used cpvc for my manifold. Easier to work with than copper and cheaper. I found slits to be a pain to make, so I drilled a bunch of small holes...no need to glue them together or worry about sweating copper together.


Here is the finished product:

I second. Pvc is way cheaper and very easy to make.
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:31 PM   #8
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Default what is the difference between cpvc and pvc?

what does the "c" stand for? What diameter pipe is that you are using 1f1fan?

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Old 08-22-2007, 12:30 AM   #9
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The C in CPVC stands for Chlorinated.

I haven't been able to find a definative site, but the info here; http://www.polymerplastics.com/corrosion_cpvc.shtml suggests that CPVC is good for sustained heat to 215F and short exposure to 230F. Compare that to the melting point of copper, which is 1984F.

This is a good site to view the resistance properties of materials against a particular solvent; http://www.coleparmer.com/techinfo/chemcomp.asp

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Old 08-22-2007, 01:05 PM   #10
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Chris....that is 1/2" CPVC.



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