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01-05-2008, 11:28 AM
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#11
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Location: Old Bridge, NJ
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I want to hit Lowes today... I want to do the copper manifold. Should I go with the simple loop design (with space around the outside of the manifold) or try and make it slightly more complicated (with other parallel channels or even perpendicular channels). What sized copper should I use? 1/2 3/4? Thanks.
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-Joe
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01-05-2008, 02:31 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Atlanta/ Phoenix
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I'm converting a Colman 48 Q, 1/2" fits snug in the hole already drilled in the cooler. I got a 2" brass pipe nipple and found it a little short, so intend to swap for 2 1/2" so the ball valve can fully close with out contacting cooler wall. Still need SS washers and rubber washer. The rubber that came with the cooler on inside seems to fit the pipe nipple and hole just fine.
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The Older I get the Faster I use to be.
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01-06-2008, 01:29 AM
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#13
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jenison, MI
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by janzik
I want to hit Lowes today... I want to do the copper manifold. Should I go with the simple loop design (with space around the outside of the manifold) or try and make it slightly more complicated (with other parallel channels or even perpendicular channels). What sized copper should I use? 1/2 3/4? Thanks.
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Before making this please READ THIS..
After reading that and going by what he says I went with the loop.
The other one posted in here does not follow what he says.
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TWO FISTED BREWING CO.
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Originally Posted by mr_cad
Its nice when you and your friends have comparable equipment.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker-san
some people will tap anything that has a hole.
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Buy Two Fisted Brewing gear
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01-06-2008, 01:54 AM
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#14
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Location: Ashland, WI
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If you use this design and only slit the center three like I did, you still have 3 full length runs that will give you better rinsing of the grain bed (see last pic) & you are still maintaining palmers recomended distance from the walls. Plus you dont have to worry about knocking it loose.

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Rich
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01-06-2008, 01:59 AM
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#15
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jenison, MI
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by SuperiorBrew
If you use this design and only slit the center three like I did, you still have 3 full length runs that will give you better rinsing of the grain bed (see last pic) & you are still maintaining palmers recomended distance from the walls. Plus you dont have to worry about knocking it loose.

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One of the other pics you posted showed slots in the outer tubes. That is what i was talking about.
__________________
TWO FISTED BREWING CO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_cad
Its nice when you and your friends have comparable equipment.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker-san
some people will tap anything that has a hole.
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Buy Two Fisted Brewing gear
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01-06-2008, 03:27 AM
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#16
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Location: Ashland, WI
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by FSR402
One of the other pics you posted showed slots in the outer tubes. That is what i was talking about.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by SuperiorBrew
This is the manifold just laying on the lid for the pic. I did change out the tow outer pieces with solid PVC after reading Palmers book
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You must have missed this part 
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Rich
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01-06-2008, 01:13 PM
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#17
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jenison, MI
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by SuperiorBrew
You must have missed this part 
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Yes I did miss that part.. 
__________________
TWO FISTED BREWING CO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_cad
Its nice when you and your friends have comparable equipment.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker-san
some people will tap anything that has a hole.
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Buy Two Fisted Brewing gear
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01-06-2008, 02:52 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Old Bridge, NJ
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by SuperiorBrew
If you use this design and only slit the center three like I did, you still have 3 full length runs that will give you better rinsing of the grain bed (see last pic) & you are still maintaining palmers recomended distance from the walls. Plus you dont have to worry about knocking it loose.

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Does having that 3rd leg effect the flow? Would more get sucked in through the middle since it is a direct route out? (Especially since the "outer" 2 legs overpass the spigot, rather than connect close to it?
Mind you, I think regardless of which is used (2 legged loop, 3 legs with an overpass like yours or 3 legs that came together before the spigot) the differences would be negligible.
What size copper pipe for the manifold itself is recommended?
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-Joe
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01-06-2008, 03:03 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ashland, WI
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by janzik
Does having that 3rd leg effect the flow? Would more get sucked in through the middle since it is a direct route out? (Especially since the "outer" 2 legs overpass the spigot, rather than connect close to it?
Mind you, I think regardless of which is used (2 legged loop, 3 legs with an overpass like yours or 3 legs that came together before the spigot) the differences would be negligible.
What size copper pipe for the manifold itself is recommended?
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Personally I dont think so, once you get the flow started it will sucking from all the tubes. I ran pumpkin, wheat and other more difficult mashes thru it and never even had a slow sparge, no rice hulls either.
I am sure 1/2" would be fine.
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Rich
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