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02-10-2009, 02:52 PM
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#1
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Making a recirculating keg MLT...
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Hi guys. I'm working on getting my single tier rig figured out and want to incorperate a recirculating keg MLT. From your experience for those of you that use RKMLT's, what configuration works best? IE: bulkhead/temp probe position and return bulkhead position and configuration? The MLT will be direct fired so I'm assuming a false bottom is preferred over a Bazooka. Thanks a lot guys!
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YTD Gallons Brewed: 105
If God didn't want us to eat animals..... we wouldn't have made them out of meat.
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02-10-2009, 02:56 PM
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#2
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Location: Highland, MI
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There are many examples of different designs but the brutus 10 has to be the most copied design I have seen. Just mimic what Lonnie did and you should be all set.
Linc
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Tap#1 = Beer
Tap#2 = Beer
THey change to often to keep up with the Sig.
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02-10-2009, 03:17 PM
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#3
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Location: Mentor, OH
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Mine is a bit more crude than the Brutus 10. I've got a two-tier, but in my MT I use a Sabco false bottom, with a siphon pulling it from above the false bottom (similar to the Brew Magic MT). I do pump it out, and have found it to have occasional vacuum problems though.
My bulkheads are:
wort out: just above the false bottom
temp probe: about 4 inches above that
wort & HTL in: just above top "crease" in keg
I kept the temp probe lower because I occasionally brew batches of less than 10 gal.
For the top bulkhead, I have a copper sparge circle I use when sparging, and an elbow & plastic hose I use during wort recirc.
Hope this helps.
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02-10-2009, 04:15 PM
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#4
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Vendor and Brewer
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Location: Piscataway, NJ
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If you're going to direct fire, you really should get a full false bottom or make sure that the flame is limited to the section that will NOT have grain sitting against it. It's really easy to scorch.
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BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
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02-10-2009, 05:13 PM
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#5
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Bobby....I was thinking that, although how would you install a full false bottom in a keggle which has an opening smaller than the false bottom. I'd imagine having to cut through the lip left after removing the keg's top to do so.
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YTD Gallons Brewed: 105
If God didn't want us to eat animals..... we wouldn't have made them out of meat.
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02-10-2009, 05:24 PM
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#6
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Vendor and Brewer
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Two choices; cut the FB down the middle and use a piano hinge or slot the keg. I chose the latter:
I suppose you don't really need one that is 15" in diameter but you'd want one larger than 10". You don't need a monster flame on this thing.
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BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
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02-10-2009, 05:41 PM
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#7
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Your dip tube doesn't go through the FB?
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YTD Gallons Brewed: 105
If God didn't want us to eat animals..... we wouldn't have made them out of meat.
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02-10-2009, 06:25 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: North Western PA
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Here's mine. Similar to Bobby's, with the slits cut for the false bottom. Mine drains from the bottom - no dip tube through the false bottom. False bottom is attached with little stainless legs which were tapped for a stainless bolt.
Last edited by sleepystevenson; 02-10-2009 at 06:28 PM.
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