A jumper will work but is not recommended. If you can, use a terminal block, next I would suggest splicing and soldering the joints. My last choice would be a jumper. These connections just aren't designed for multiple wires. It will work fine (the electricity doesn't now the difference), it just looks nicer and is safer the other way (i.e., less chance for arcing, short circuit, crossing wires, shocking yourself, etc.).
I used a jumper when wiring my Ranco, because it was just easier...
This is a great thread! Here is the diagram for a dual stage LOVE TSS2-2100
For standard heating and cooling application such as in a fermentation chamber with cooling and heating capacity, you want to select MODE ON OFF1 with r0=ind., c1=dir., and c2=inv. such that when the temp drops below your first set point the cooling will kick on, and when it rises above your second set point the heater will kick on.
Here is the spec sheet for this controller, and the cheapest supplier I have found.
Thanks You! My controller should be here next week, going to hook up a fermentation chamber. I second that on the supplier, it is were I got mine from.
A jumper will work but is not recommended. If you can, use a terminal block, next I would suggest splicing and soldering the joints. My last choice would be a jumper. These connections just aren't designed for multiple wires. It will work fine (the electricity doesn't now the difference), it just looks nicer and is safer the other way (i.e., less chance for arcing, short circuit, crossing wires, shocking yourself, etc.).
I used a jumper when wiring my Ranco, because it was just easier...
I have used the modular terminal blocks from Mcmaster-Carr and like those very much. You buy a mounting rail and then whatever terminals you need. These are nice because they are easily expandable if you find you would like to add more connections. That may be a bit over-kill though for this app.... If you look under the electrical sub-section, they have a terminal block section.
Also, I think that if you want to use one probe (which I do), you can just splice the probe wire and send it to both terminals 1 and 2.
Thanks. Newark and Grainger have them as well. Just wanted to know if some one had a deal. Seems kind of pricey. I feel a flame coming on, but what about using boxes and wire nuts? $80 for terminal blocks compared to $20 for boxes and wire nuts. What do you guys think?
If I didn't have some terminal blocks lying around, I would use a box. I would house the connections in the box, solder the connections, and shrink wrap them. Or just use wire nuts. They will work just as well. These aren't industrial conditions we're talking about.
If I didn't have some terminal blocks lying around, I would use a box. I would house the connections in the box, solder the connections, and shrink wrap them. Or just use wire nuts. They will work just as well. These aren't industrial conditions we're talking about.
Thanks, Thats what I was thinking as well. Thanks again for all the help and diagrams!
BTW if you're going to all that trouble just to avoid using a jumper wire, I wouldn't bother. I had no problem using one in mine. The products we manufacture at my work also use them all the time (and our products are UL approved).
Linear Mode
