-TH-

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The instructions that came with my TS-13010 Love temp controller weren't real clear in terms of wiring and I had to do some searching here and elsewhere. What I found helped but I thought I would make up a diagram that was real clear and post it:


And for the PRE-2008 models (thanks to Rick500):


Here's the diagram for the LOVE TSS2-2100 (thanks to Boerderij_Kabouter):


And the LOVE TSS2-2100 again but with only one temp probe (thanks to Boerderij_Kabouter):

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TH

Builds, etc: E-Brewery | Fermentation Chamber | Concrete-Roller Mill | Stirplate | Bottle Cabinet | Pneumatic Bottle Capper
Resources: www.EZWaterCalculator.com

Jewrican

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perfect! Bookmarked. I will need this in a week or so!

Beer Please

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I Love my Love temp controller!

Dilligaf

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I've got a quick question about wiring the love controller.

The thermostat in my mini fridge is toast so I would like to wire up a love controller. Instead of wiring it using the extension cord method I would like to use the existing thermostat wires and mount the love controller in the door.

My question is how should I wire the controller? The wires I have to work with in the fridge are:

Black (hot)

Yellow (Neutral)

Green (ground)

I've tried to figure it out using THs wiring diagram but I'm not to electrically gifted. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Jamie

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" I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day." - Frank Sinatra -

-TH-

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Maybe this will clear things for you...

#7 neutral - [STRIKE]could be the neutral line of the old thermostat [/STRIKE], or anywhere else you can get neutral from. [EDIT: Your old thermostat probably doesn't have a neutral line going to it. Probably just hot in, switch hot out, and ground.]

#8 needs a wire that is always hot.

#9 nothing

#10 needs a wire that is always hot. can get by running a short wire from #8.

#11 this is the line that becomes hot when the controller determines the fridge should run (aka "switched hot"). Therefore you could use the wire that the old thermostat used to provide power to the compressor.

Hope that helps!

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TH

Builds, etc: E-Brewery | Fermentation Chamber | Concrete-Roller Mill | Stirplate | Bottle Cabinet | Pneumatic Bottle Capper
Resources: www.EZWaterCalculator.com

Tonedef131

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Thanks for this, I am getting ready to wire mine up in the next day or two. Why can't they just put this in the box with the controller, it is so much easier to follow.

Dilligaf

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Thanks for the response. Thats what I thought but was scared I might fu*& something up.

No chance of that now...Thanks Again.

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" I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day." - Frank Sinatra -

jawbox

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I wouldn't recommend using a jumper. I believe those terminals are for one wire only. You might be better to splice and run a pigtail to terminal 10.

Hope you can see the picture ok.

Boerderij_Kabouter

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This is a great thread! Here is the diagram for a dual stage LOVE TSS2-2100



For standard heating and cooling application such as in a fermentation chamber with cooling and heating capacity, you want to select MODE ON OFF1 with r0=ind., c1=dir., and c2=inv. such that when the temp drops below your first set point the cooling will kick on, and when it rises above your second set point the heater will kick on.

Here is the spec sheet for this controller, and the cheapest supplier I have found.

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2P-Twent-E Simple Brew DITCHES 1 DITCHES 2 Fermentolagertaporator side-by-side ferm Twelve Hopostles Labels

Tonedef131

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I used a jumper and it has been working fantastically.