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Old 01-05-2013, 08:33 PM   #1
BigRedHopHead
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Default Losing my Gap. MM2 2.0

so just went through my first grind on my new Monster Mill MM2 2.0. When I got the mill I decided to set an .040 gap instead of the .045 from the factory. Used feeler gauge to set it correctly at .040. tightened the set screws, then the roller knobs on both sides.
Got through about 12lbs of grain with no problem. then with about 4lbs to go I noticed the roller knob on the drill side started to turn and loosen, and the grain remaining grain was poorly crushed. Reset the gap following the same procedure, making sure both sides were correct. Dumped back in the poorly crushed grain and crushed again. This time the roller adjustment knob on the opposite side came loose. The crush, after going through twice looked fine, but I could see the gap wider on the opposite end. Finished up and reset both gaps again.
Now, my question is how tight do you have to go on the set screws and roller adjustment knobs? The manual says hand tighten which I did both times. Yet the gap wouldn't hold. Did not notice any binding, and I used a big Ol' 1/2 drill to power the mill. Any thoughts? Thanks,

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Old 01-05-2013, 08:59 PM   #2
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The MM2s are notorious for coming loose. If you contact them they will ship you hex head bolts for free. I have my thumb screws pretty tight, but you don't dare want to over tighten them. They'll break.

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Old 01-05-2013, 09:18 PM   #3
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Paging Mr. Golddiggie...Mr. Golddiggie please call the friont desk.

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Old 01-05-2013, 09:30 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by wilserbrewer View Post
Paging Mr. Golddiggie...Mr. Golddiggie please call the friont desk.
Damned kids... GET OFF MY LAWN!!!

I forget the screw size that Fred uses for retaining the gap setting... I would just take one to HD, Lowe's, or your local hardware shop and get a set of hex head screws to replace them. Probably be <$2 for the two you'll need. Use a wrench to get them tight (go to snug) and then try it again. Mill half the next batch through it and check the gap.

I found that no matter how hard I tried, the finger-screws would not hold the gap. I reached out to Fred and he provided replacements. I could have had an issue with the non-drive side piece of the mill, which he also sent me a replacement for (with return ship label) at the same time. I've not had the gap change at all since going with the hex head screws/bolts.

I also have mine set to a tight .039" gap... I'm thinking about going down to either .037" or .038" for the next batch. Just to see what I get from it.
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Old 01-05-2013, 09:43 PM   #5
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Thanks so much! I was worried about taking the pliers to the thumb screws. Will haul it over to HD and get a set of hex screws to fit and crank em down. Appreciate it!

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Old 01-05-2013, 09:49 PM   #6
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Thanks so much! I was worried about taking the pliers to the thumb screws. Will haul it over to HD and get a set of hex screws to fit and crank em down. Appreciate it!
A little bit of LocTite wouldn't be a bad idea either. Get the kind that you can back the screw out with (not the perm one) so that you can move it later. I'd also tend to go with stainless screws, but just make sure you use at least good steel screws. You don't want them snapping off inside the hole after all.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:18 PM   #7
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From my days of being a shade tree mechanic, you could likely snug up the thumb screws w/ a pair of pliers, but the hex head bolts are nice more "professional". As with any steel bolt threading into aluminum, take it easy w/ the wrench...these things aren't lug nuts, and you could strip the aluminum if you go at it like Mr. T., pity the fool.

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Old 01-05-2013, 10:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilserbrewer View Post
From my days of being a shade tree mechanic, you could likely snug up the thumb screws w/ a pair of pliers, but the hex head bolts are nice more "professional". As with any steel bolt threading into aluminum, take it easy w/ the wrench...these things aren't lug nuts, and you could strip the aluminum if you go at it like Mr. T., pity the fool.
I tried with pliers on mine... Didn't do any good. Hex head was a 100% fix (with a drop of thread-locker)...

As I had mentioned, I would only go to snug. When it feels tight, stop (as with most things in life )... Don't go a quarter turn past snug, or anything like that or you risk buggering the mill. I don't think Monster would do a free warranty repair if you sent the part back to them like that. Or with a snapped of bolt inside the hole. They warranty the item from defect during normal use conditions (as is reasonable). Not from people being stupid.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:43 AM   #9
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Great advice guys. Thanks!

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