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Old 02-26-2009, 01:47 PM   #11
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If you check the chart about a third of the way down, it looks like if you use blue, violet, purple or white you're getting UV. UV is 10nm-400nm. The higher on the wavelength (closer towards IR) less UV. I'd just pull the bulbs out or use red.

Light-emitting diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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Old 02-26-2009, 01:55 PM   #12
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Based on this article
Worldchanging: Bright Green: White Light, Less Heat
which shows that a white LED has wavelengths below 500nm (I was just looking at the chart, and it makes sense if it is white light)

According to this you can skunk beer with 500 nm or less light.
What Gives Beer the Skunk or Stale Flavor? - At least three chemicals - Softpedia
Riboflavin, a yeast chemical, absorbs light energy with wavelengths of 350 to 500 nanometers (nm). This energy makes the iso-alpha acids release free radicals that combine with sulfur chemicals produced by the yeast, resulting the stinky thiol.

I have some "bug light" covers for my fluorescent lights (Ok I still need to actually put them on...) that turn the light yellow, and really what they are doing is mostly blocking any of the blue/violet light (500nm and less...). So you could just get some of these covers (from McMaster, I can get you a part #) and put them over your current fluorescent tubes.

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Old 02-26-2009, 01:58 PM   #13
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I'd be interested in those bug covers, thank you. Perhaps that would work. I appreciate all your help; you guys are awesome!

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Old 02-26-2009, 01:59 PM   #14
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Or just slather some SPF 50 on your carboys after you pitch the yeast Careful picking them up!

Do a 1 Gallon test batch of a highly hopped Light pale Ale (maybe a lb of DME for a 1044 beer and hop to 50-60 IBUs) and leave the lights on. If it skunks you know you're answer and are only out 1 gallon of beer. Which can be choked down no problem even if it's skunked

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Old 02-26-2009, 02:01 PM   #15
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LED's are really really expensive right now. Just stick to normal incandescent lighting. And yes - "white" diodes do release UV as they are a combination of a UV LED and a Blue LED.

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Old 02-26-2009, 02:16 PM   #16
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Based on the chart and text in this wiki article
Fluorescent lamp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Yellow fluorescent lights The spectrum is nearly identical to a normal fluorescent bulb except for a near total lack of light below 500 nanometers. This effect can be achieved through either specialized phosphor use or more commonly by the use of a simple yellow light filter. These lamps are commonly used as lighting for photolithography work in cleanrooms and as "bug repellent" outdoor lighting (the efficacy of which is questionable).

I figured the bug light cover from McMaster would help protect the beer from skunking
48 . . . . .Yellow Bug Lite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1626K45. . . . . 5.45 4.90
McMaster-Carr

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Old 02-26-2009, 02:17 PM   #17
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So am I to understand then, that these UV filters should work?

Mcmaster Carr No. 1626K71

I could cover the interior light, filter the UV and leave it on inside? Does anyone know if these work? I know one of you said you own them but have yet to use them.

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Old 02-26-2009, 02:19 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conpewter View Post
Based on the chart and text in this wiki article
Fluorescent lamp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Yellow fluorescent lights The spectrum is nearly identical to a normal fluorescent bulb except for a near total lack of light below 500 nanometers. This effect can be achieved through either specialized phosphor use or more commonly by the use of a simple yellow light filter. These lamps are commonly used as lighting for photolithography work in cleanrooms and as "bug repellent" outdoor lighting (the efficacy of which is questionable).

I figured the bug light cover from McMaster would help protect the beer from skunking
48 . . . . .Yellow Bug Lite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1626K45. . . . . 5.45 4.90
McMaster-Carr
D'oh. You beat me to it. I think I might try that. If anyone knows for sure that they work, let me know. Gonna give it a shot in the meantime. Seems like it will work in theory, but we know how that goes....
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:46 PM   #19
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Well as soon as my pale ale is done I'll bottle some in clear bottles, put one in the dark, and set the other under my yellow fluorescent for 24 hours and test (means I have to actually install the covers)..

Also I started to research this when building my brew-rig in the basement since I have fluorescent lights in that area. Once I found out that you can't skunk beer until yeast have been introduced I felt much better

This also explains why you can brew out in the bright sunlight, transfer to a clear carboy, sit around and drink some... carry into the dark basement and pitch yeast and not get skunky beer.

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Old 02-26-2009, 02:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conpewter View Post
Well as soon as my pale ale is done I'll bottle some in clear bottles, put one in the dark, and set the other under my yellow fluorescent for 24 hours and test (means I have to actually install the covers)..

Also I started to research this when building my brew-rig in the basement since I have fluorescent lights in that area. Once I found out that you can't skunk beer until yeast have been introduced I felt much better

This also explains why you can brew out in the bright sunlight, transfer to a clear carboy, sit around and drink some... carry into the dark basement and pitch yeast and not get skunky beer.

Yeah, I'm less concerned about it once it's bottled as I am when it's fermenting. We all know that's when it's at the biggest risk for screw ups. I wonder how "yellow" these yellow lights are.
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