Keggle vs SS pot vs almighty Boilermaker

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lol...i'm so clueless....how many ssrs and heatsinks?

I use one on EACH HOT leg.

Each element uses (2)
Each pump uses (1)

If you had 4 elements and two pumps, (10) total

Heatsinks on the SSRs to the elements, not really needed on the ones for the pumps.
 
Everyone does things differently, thus is merely one mans humble opinion...

good luck to ya
 
Good news...I've got access to 240V !!!!
Now, I could go ahead and use 2 elements in the BK...as for the boil...you suggest I go with a rims...I guess that would be the better idea. Would you happen to have a list of the required parts for such a build? For the weldless couplings for the elements, were they ordered from bargain fittings?

Started gathering things today...
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thanks!


where do you surf in montreal? i heard the waves werent too good around there :mug:
 
Gabrew... how's the brew rig coming? I went through the same thought process you did and think I have come to the same conclusion on building the electric HERMS setup. I would love to see pics and maybe a parts list if you have them together. Any direction would be helpful and much appreciated. I'm also trying to figure out what to budget for the project.

I am clueless on all this, but have found a lot of good info on these forums. Luckily I came across your thread.

Is it ridiculous to be wanting to build a setup like this before I have ever tried AG brewing? Probably...
 
I am clueless on all this, but have found a lot of good info on these forums. Luckily I came across your thread.

Is it ridiculous to be wanting to build a setup like this before I have ever tried AG brewing? Probably...

I say NO if your serious with getting into brewing. Why spend, I call it a big money waste if you know you'll get in AG in the first place? Look at the money you'll save with one build vs two switching over? Taking a hit or loss on used equipment add this factor into the the switch, no 100% cash return.
A couple friends jumped first brew of their own into AG after seeing both processes, extract and AG a couple times among friends, me as well LHBS free classes. Then the next two very important decisions is go gas or electric, make this a solid final decision looking way into the future on where you'll be later. The second question is will you stay full manual control with just one PID or jump into some more automated and consistant control of the brewing process like a BCS 460 control system or others that are available?
My wife would shoot and bury me if I switched again, I was lucky as a retired wireman partner and friend moved away, before he did we both did extracts for years on his equipment which was given to me free. Selling it after a year and 8-10 extracts later I had my seed money to start the AG system plus a keg collection already. Sold this AG system as the second build will be different. I must add getting your hands on kegs as well Corny's if not bottling the supply is drying up the prices going up big time, make a quick decision and buy what you can before kegs and Corny's become way overpriced. Long novel sorry but for a reason. Take what you think it will cost and double it, tell the wife 1/4 the actual build cost so you can later live to enjoy your AG homebrews, LOL! JMO's here.
 
Hey ldo,

The rig is comming along...very very slowly :(. All i've got done is cutting the top off the kegs and getting some lids. As for now, I'm looking for a sketching program such that I can put together a 'fictional' system to make sure I don't miss out on anything once I place my orders (shipping to Canada is way expensive).

I'm still trying to figure out if I should go with 1 5500W element in each HLT and BK or two smaller elements...

I've been brewing all grain on a professional level for over a year now, but nothing seems as satisfying as having 100% control over the recipes and techniques. As BrewBeemer said, if your somewhat serious about this hobby, its rather cheap.

I'll be putting together a parts list once I get my stuff going. I'll either post it here or start a new thread!

Good luck!
 
That sucks about shipping... its better to have it all planned out anyway I guess. I am definitely going to build one. I've been brewing partial extract for a few years now and love it. I know I'll stick with it. Let us know if you start a new thread. I'm going to start compiling a parts list too. I'll share it once I get a good start to see if we are one the same page. As for the elements... I do like the idea of the two 4500w. It sounds faster and more efficient to maintain temperatures. If the wiring isn't that much harder, I think that is the way I will go.
 
Why so high in shipping, your not at Nome are ya? Sounds like it or the dog sled runs only once a month? I can get parts from Oz to Calif. rather quick and cheap, what's up with this shipping? Customs added tax added?
Can you get items shipped by a USA member near the border saving on your shiping? Up north you must have a million sq/mile exterior wort chiller.
 
hahahhah

yeah...the problem is mostly customs. In general, when I ask for a quote (from any popular online HBS) the shipping costs generally double...if not more :(
 
That sucks being your a neighbor to us in the USA with large dollar trade amounts between countries. JMO vs shipping around the world. What's wrong with this picture, just a border? We're both being screwed vs imported over seas items. Again JMO.
 
Gabrew... I've been working on a parts list. I have to attach it as a series of pictures, but I guess it will work. Here is what I have come up with so far. I am still unsure about the number of liquid shutoff valves and quick disconnects I will need... and what I need to construct the lid liquid returns. I'm sure I am missing some other stuff. This is my best guess off of a RIMS build part list I found and Lonnie's Brutus Ten plans.

Overall, I am going with a no-weld version (brew kettle, HLT, and Mash Tun, and stand). 2 burners in each the HLT and kettle. And I was planning on using an existing SS immersion chiller for the heat exchanger in the HLT. I figured this could double as chiller if I fill the HLT with ice water.

Thoughts?

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#1. I would maybe invest in a larger box... 12 x 12 gets really small, really quick.

#2. You dont NEED the SS compression fittings for the BCS probes if you dont WANT them. The probe comes with a compression fitting already, if you want SS, you have the right ones spec'd

#3. You may want to include fuses for your pumps, BCS and maybe elements. Your breaker will trip at 50A, which is about 10x what you need to fry most of those components before it trips.

#4. How are you getting the wires into the box to the SSRs? You should probably include some liquid tight cord grips from a place like ElecDirect. Otherwise having a NEMA 4 box is really a moot point if you dont have water tight connections.

#5. Id look into using 3/4" plumbing on 3/4" SS Camlocks from ProFlowDynamics. You will have to get an adapter to fit them to the pumps and valves, but this would reduce your resistance and increase flow on those March 809's.

#6. If you are going to use the SS coil in the HLT mounted to weldless bulkheads, you will need some 1/2" SS 90 degree elbows to get from the coil to the female end of the weldless fitting.

#7. A range OR dryer cord will work for you as long as it is 4 wires and rated to 50A.

#8. How are you powering the BCS? It comes with a wall wort, so you need an AC plug to plug it into. I get around this by having an outlet actually wired up INSIDE my control box in a smaller box so that I can literally plug it in. You cannot just touch the wires to your terminal block. BOOM.

#9. Wireless capability... dont bother unless you have the utmost rocking high speed connection available. There is SO much data transfer that you will have real continuity problems if you are not connected via a CAT6 cable or the like.

#10. IF you decide to place a fan on the control box, I would recommend 100CFM or greater of you really want to move air... you will also need to cut some intake ports, otherwise there will be no air movement. Even with intake ports you will be cutting some of the fans eff. so I would get a nice large fan 105 CFM or so.

#11. You are going to need to get some M3 (if I recall) screws to mount the SSRs to the heat-sinks.

#12. Tube of heat grease from Radio Shack

#13. I, personally, would place (2) SSRs on each element. This way when the BCS commands it off, there is no current to it. Otherwise your rig, just plugged in, nothing running, will have current running to all of the elements. Just my .02.

#14. Where are the SSRs for the pumps? Are those the 25A ones? Typo?

#15. You need some SS 1" couplings OR 1" SS nuts to mount your elements in your kettles.

#15. You need the misc. pieces to pot the electrical connections on the elements.

#16 Get some 22ga wire to run for the BCS grounds and such that run to your SSRs.

#17. You have 2 terminal blocks spec'd. but you will have 4 wires coming into your box, how will those be configured? Personally, Id go to Automation Direct and pick up a 3IN 6OUT distribution block and then have an additional terminal block or ground bar for the grounds. You will need a place to split (2) hots, (1) neutral and (1) ground

#18. Also, as I said in my PM... Id go with a RIMS. If you are rockin 9000W in the kettles anyhow, Id place that in a RIMS. Use that RIMS to heat your strike water right in the MLT, use it at 4500W for the MASH and then use it at 9000W for on demand sparge water heating. It is a more eff. use of energy overall. It will provide you with plenty of hot sparge water I assure you.

These are the things I see off the top of my head... arent you hating that you asked for my input now? :D

Really there are a lot of things you dont think about until you are mid build... or on your second or third build. It is a process.

When building something for the first time, I take the "proposed cost" and increase it by about 30%.
 
Wow. This will take a while to digest. I really appreciate the input. Maybe I want a RIMS now :) Too bad there isn't a single post out there with the "100% with out a doubt" best rig with step by step instructions on how to build it.

Back to the drawing board.
 
FWIW there is no "best" rig... we all have different things we want to accomplish, and there are different ways to get there.

I am 100% committed to electric brewing, and doing so with as little waste as possible, that is where my designs come from.
 
^^ Great input!!!

However i'm staying with the HERMS...any reason why one should choose the camlocks instead of some quick disconnects??

Thanks
 
^^ Great input!!!

However i'm staying with the HERMS...any reason why one should choose the camlocks instead of some quick disconnects??

Thanks

willynilly said it would help with the flow to the pumpps:

"#5. Id look into using 3/4" plumbing on 3/4" SS Camlocks from ProFlowDynamics. You will have to get an adapter to fit them to the pumps and valves, but this would reduce your resistance and increase flow on those March 809's."
 
^^if it is shipped as a 'gift', no customs...

I have to order a bunch of weldless fittings...was planning on ordering from bargainfittings.com...I wonder if he'd be up to it?
 
yeah that could perhaps work, I'll try it out!

As for the weather, its been pretty nice (mid 20's C)...however a couple of weeks ago it snowed and three days later we were hitting the 30's....very very odd!

where is this island you live on?
 
yeah that could perhaps work, I'll try it out!

As for the weather, its been pretty nice (mid 20's C)...however a couple of weeks ago it snowed and three days later we were hitting the 30's....very very odd!

where is this island you live on?

Ha ha, I drove Pat aka "Lehr" nuts for months on the island I live on.
We have sand, palm trees, sea breezes. Just my little bit of paradise
in the sun. Guess where, tag your it?
 
I've been having second thoughts on the BCS...

I'll be using two pumps for:
-recirculating the HLT
-transfers from one vessel to another
-circulating mash through HERMS
-cooling boiling wort through HERMS
etc...

Therefore, wouldn't it be better to use only two probes at each exit of the pumps? I'll probably be adding standard themometers on each keg to reduce the messy wiring...

So if this is the best choice, going with PIDs would probably be more reasonable as I would not be looking to monitor more that two temperature fluctuations...

Thoughts???
 
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