Keggle vs SS pot vs almighty Boilermaker

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heheh,

I think that would make sense, do you think that this would resultin a rather efficienct system? For the copper coil, any suggestions as to the length and diameter?

cheers!

I have built that exact system, it would be very efficient. I prefer 25' of 1/2" OD tubing, copper or SS. SS is nice because you cannot SEE inside the tubing, you dont know what condition the copper is in (patina??)

Is it green? Is it shiney? You know what I mean?

Anyway, I consistently achieved 80%+ eff.
 
That sounds pretty good! I'm planning on using a three keggle single tier rig with weldless fittings, jaybird's false bottom and some other goodies. For cooling, should I go with HPE or could I cool using the herms (filling up the HLT with cold water and ice and recirculating the hot wort?).

As for the weldless fittings, due to the weight of the coil, is there a possibility that the weight may result in leaks?

thanks!
 
That sounds pretty good! I'm planning on using a three keggle single tier rig with weldless fittings, jaybird's false bottom and some other goodies. For cooling, should I go with HPE or could I cool using the herms (filling up the HLT with cold water and ice and recirculating the hot wort?).

As for the weldless fittings, due to the weight of the coil, is there a possibility that the weight may result in leaks?

thanks!

HDPE is okay if you want to do the no chill thing

You can also use the coil in the HLT, filled with ice water, for cooling. This is sometimes referred to closed circuit cooling. You will need a lot of ice for a 10 gallon batch.

I have a 50' coil on weldless fittings, no leaks
 
I was thinking more about the extra weight onto the silicon rings, perhaps causing a gap resulting in an unsteady seal...
 
I was thinking more about the extra weight onto the silicon rings, perhaps causing a gap resulting in an unsteady seal...

Right, I have a 50' coil that uses weldless fittings, no leaks.

P1030954.jpg
 
alright, sounds good! I'll sleep on all I've learned tonight (school tomorrow) and will definately be back with more questions!

thank you very much for you time and help!!!!
 
Good news...I've got access to 240V !!!!
Now, I could go ahead and use 2 elements in the BK...as for the boil...you suggest I go with a rims...I guess that would be the better idea. Would you happen to have a list of the required parts for such a build? For the weldless couplings for the elements, were they ordered from bargain fittings?

Started gathering things today...
DSC09602.jpg


thanks!
 
If you are using 240VAC Id use 1-2 elements in the BK. You should be in the 5500 - 9000W range if you care about heating times.

RIMS is good, HERMS is too... I have used both and like them both. I DO LOVE the RIMS because I can run it at 9000W and heat the strike water super fast in the MLT.

I actually have 1" SS couplings from McMaster Carr as the "nuts" that hold the elements in. You can get the hex nuts at bargainfittings.com too.

I like the couplings because I can mount the elements lower in the kettle. See, you have to be able to turn the "nut" ideally, if you start turning the element to tighten it, you twist up the seal on the outside and it leaks. So, the "nut" cannot be mounted as low, because if the HEX design, the tips of the hex will interfere with the bottom of the kettle. Couplings dont have this issue.

Personal preference.
 
so you're suggesting: herms for mash recirculation plus 1-2 elements in the BK?

I am suggesting a HERMS with 4000W or better in the HLT

Then 5500-9000W in the BK

You could do a RIMS, but then youd have the RIMS, HLT and BK to heat. In the case of the HERMS you would heat the HLT and BK only
 
hmmm, sounds pretty good, thumbs up for the herms! :D

Would this require some mind-bending electronic configuration or it is possible for the average bloke?
 
hmmm, sounds pretty good, thumbs up for the herms! :D

You will enjoy it. Use a pump to circulate the water in the HLT, and a pump to recirc. the mash through the coil. 25' of 1/2" OD coil will work well for you. Also, place it as low as you can in the kettle, this will reduce the water volume needed to submerge the coil. I prefer SS coils, only because I cannot see what shape the copper is on the inside.

Ummmmm, I loved my HERMS, loved the RIMS, you will love it too.

I am pretty average, I figured it out.
 
so no need for a 50'? Would you recommend some tri-clamps for easy removal or is it not necessary for a HLT only?
 
so no need for a 50'? Would you recommend some tri-clamps for easy removal or is it not necessary for a HLT only?

In an HLT, Id just hard mount it, you wont have a need to remove it.

50' IME is overkill, at about 25' at our recirc rates you will have wort exiting at your target temp. The extra 25' would be a waste IMO and would require more water to submerge it.
 
hmmm...smart man you are! Sounds pretty darn good for now, just can't wait to get it all together!!!!

Anything I should be aware of in terms of elements...

(I should be paying you for all this info :mug:)
 
hmmm...smart man you are! Sounds pretty darn good for now, just can't wait to get it all together!!!!

Anything I should be aware of in terms of elements...

(I should be paying you for all this info :mug:)


Um, I prefer Camco, I have had excellent luck with them. I like the shiney "chrome" looking ones. I use Camco 2583 4500W elements almost exclusively.

If you install (2) in the HLT and the BK, you can wire them so you can either use ONE or TWO at a given time. TWO to heat the vessel FAST, ONE to maintain the temp. once you get there. Again, just my own preference, it adds a little complexity to the wiring.

My last rig (9000W) would heat 10 gallons from 50F to 170F in under 20 minutes, then... 4500W would maintain the temps./boil easy!
 
that sounds just about perfect...at least for my first AG brewing needs :p

so two pumps would suffice...pump 1 to recirculate the HTL while pump 2 recirculates the mash, then pump 1 to sparge while pump 2 transfers to the kettle, then either pumps to cool via the HPE...right?
 
that sounds just about perfect...at least for my first AG brewing needs :p

so two pumps would suffice...pump 1 to recirculate the HTL while pump 2 recirculates the mash, then pump 1 to sparge while pump 2 transfers to the kettle, then either pumps to cool via the HPE...right?

PERFECT, yup...

I may be a little over the top, but that is how I like to build :)
 
hehe, I'm used to brewing on a 60Hl fully automated professional system...so this will be somewhere in between :)

in terms of HPE...is there really a diff between the half-priced shirron vs the blichmann (I've also found some no-name on ebay, but unsure about the fittings)
 
hehe, I'm used to brewing on a 60Hl fully automated professional system...so this will be somewhere in between :)

in terms of HPE...is there really a diff between the half-priced shirron vs the blichmann (I've also found some no-name on ebay, but unsure about the fittings)

It depends... it boils down to (no pun) surface area. I think the Blichman has much more than the Shirron chiller. The ones on the net will work, but again, you have to be mindful of the total surface area.

Basically L x W x NUMBER OF PLATES

The more surface area you get per dollar, the better :D
 
sounds pretty good to me!!!

in terms of QD...found large difference bewteen brass and SS...worth it?
 
sounds pretty good to me!!!

in terms of QD...found large difference bewteen brass and SS...worth it?

Wrong dude to ask... half the crap I build isnt "worth" it ;)

I have used the brass QDs and they are awesome, there is no difference in the performance between the two. Just depends on how over the top you are:D
 
hmmm....ill see, if i go with the SS coil, then I won't have the choice to go SS all the way :D...this hobby is so contageous :D
 
hmmm....ill see, if i go with the SS coil, then I would have the choice to go all the way :D...this hobby is so contageous :D

Of course, Id say... do it, go SS... it isnt necessary, but hell... neither is brewing :rockin:
 
and there is no problem of fitting two, plus a 25' coil plus T probe...etc?

Not at all, look at mine. You can squeeze a lot in there, my coil is actually in the BK, a chilling coil, and it is 50'... still room
 
hmmm this is great

in terms of controlling temp and all, might as well go with the BCS460 or is this getting too abitious
 
hmmm this is great

in terms of controlling temp and all, might as well go with the BCS460 or is this getting too abitious

Actually, I think the BCS simplifies the wiring A LOT... it is much smaller than a PID, let alone multiple PIDs. It is also capable of automating the process, where as a PID is really not. Use it for the elements, pumps... anything
 
hmmm, this is sounding better and better...no where's the big$$ laydown...its not the free keggles, not the rig itslf, nor is it the copper or the elements....
 
in terms of cash, is it cheaper with the BCS or PIDs?

Well....

(2) PIDs will run $90+

The BCS will run $185, BUT is it essentially 4 PIDs in one unit, smaller, has 6 outputs for elements and pumps...

The BCS costs more, but offers a lot more too, including data logging :)
 
hmmm, so say i go with the BCS, what else am i looking into in terms of electronics:
-probes (3)
-router
-....
 
hmmm, so say i go with the BCS, what else am i looking into in terms of electronics:
-probes (3)
-router
-....

You will only NEED one temp probe, but you could get three. They are $16 each.

You do NOT need a router, that is for wireless control only.

SSRs and Heatsinks

Distribution block

Misc wire

Couple inline fuses
 
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