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Old 02-01-2012, 03:53 AM   #1
Riles8148
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Default Keggle

I am planning on buying a keg to make a keggle....anyone aware of some solid how to information?

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Old 02-01-2012, 03:57 AM   #2
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from what i've seen, take a standard keg, cut a large, round hole in the top, fill it with wort.

someone did post on here the importance of de-burring the lip.


can you be more specific on the parts you're looking to have clarified?

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Old 02-01-2012, 04:48 AM   #3
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I first got into the homebrew business by making keggles. What do you want to know? You'll be hard pressed to find a better reference on the subject than myself

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Old 02-01-2012, 01:01 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by SpikeBrewing
I first got into the homebrew business by making keggles. What do you want to know? You'll be hard pressed to find a better reference on the subject than myself
What's the best location for a ball valve and thermometer in relation to the keg handles?
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Old 02-01-2012, 01:47 PM   #5
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Also, would an 11 inch hole be to small for some reason, it's the lid size I currently have. Doing BIAB. Brewingwithbobby has some good vids on YouTube.

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Old 02-01-2012, 02:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dominant159 View Post
What's the best location for a ball valve and thermometer in relation to the keg handles?

Also, would an 11 inch hole be to small for some reason, it's the lid size I currently have. Doing BIAB. Brewingwithbobby has some good vids on YouTube.
If you plan on only doing 10gal batches then I would place the couplers vertically in between the handles. BUT make sure that they aren't right above the little openings around the bottom ring. Heat will build up and escape out of those holes and you don't want your couplers right above them. If you plan on doing smaller batches having the couplers both at the bottom might be better suited.

Off hand I can't remember how big I made the top holes but the key is to make it AS LARGE AS POSSIBLE. I don't care how smooth and well you deburr the top it will still be sharp and you will cut the **** out of your hands. Give your self as much room as you can to work with. I always recommended putting a piece of rubber house around the top hole so you don't cut yourself.
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:08 PM   #7
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The keggles that the LHBS I shop at has some kind of black trim material along the cut opening. Looks like it helps it to make a better seal as well as protects the edges (or protects you from the cut edge). Any idea as to what they used? I want to make sure whatever I use is safe at least to boiling wort temps, or at least 250F.

I cut my keggle to be opening to just over 12" the first time. It's as large an opening as I could get with the tool I used. I have another tool coming (air cutoff tool) that i plan to use to get the opening larger. I figure that I should be able to get within .5"-1" from the edge this way.

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Old 02-01-2012, 04:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golddiggie
The keggles that the LHBS I shop at has some kind of black trim material along the cut opening. Looks like it helps it to make a better seal as well as protects the edges (or protects you from the cut edge). Any idea as to what they used? I want to make sure whatever I use is safe at least to boiling wort temps, or at least 250F.

I cut my keggle to be opening to just over 12" the first time. It's as large an opening as I could get with the tool I used. I have another tool coming (air cutoff tool) that i plan to use to get the opening larger. I figure that I should be able to get within .5"-1" from the edge this way.
I used a product similar to the black stuff you are talking about to cover metal roof edging on a dog kennel. I used flexible RV trim cover, like the stuff you see around the edges of doors, slideouts, etc. Metal clips (u-shaped) placed right next to eachother coated in plastic so that it holds on whatever you put it on. ...pretty smart really... Got it from the local RV supply shop by the foot.

I cut an 11.5" hole in mine and duburred with a regular grinding wheel and sandpaper. Can run my arm all the way around without cutting myself. Just dont grind the edge into a knife point, but perpindicular to the top and bottom edge. Clean up with a couple grades of sandpaper, and done. Not sure why others have had problems with this. By taking a little extra time to grind and sand should alleviate any problems... My 2 cents.

Ryan M.
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:31 PM   #9
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I cleaned up the edge on the opening on mine already. I just want to make it a bit better/bigger than it currently is. It's not 100% round (only slighly 'off') with this time. With the second cutting, it should be much better. I will use the flap disc I used the first time to deburr and make the edge human safe. With the right disc, it's easy to do.

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Old 02-01-2012, 04:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golddiggie
I cleaned up the edge on the opening on mine already. I just want to make it a bit better/bigger than it currently is. It's not 100% round (only slighly 'off') with this time. With the second cutting, it should be much better. I will use the flap disc I used the first time to deburr and make the edge human safe. With the right disc, it's easy to do.
Exactly. Just was not sure how one could debur and clean up the edge and it still be sharp enough to cut someone. Just wasnt making sense to me...
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