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Old 03-20-2012, 03:52 PM   #41
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I was thing of building one of these and was thinking, after reading this forum, does it matter if the pipe is rated for the right heat? One would be post-rinsing these anyway and doing a simple sanitizer after PBW or oxyclean.

Also I found this very cheap 1000gph pump for 25 bucks. Wy buy a more expensive pump of this? I understand durability but might just try this today unless someone can point out a good reason not to try it. Unless I get lazy and just buy the more beer one.

On further review I see the above mentioned pump is a 12 v dc so it. Would likely be a pain....
Thanks, ryan
How did you make the connection from the pump to your PVC pipe going into the keg/Carboy
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:23 PM   #42
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How did you connect from the pump to your pvc that runs up into your keg/Carboy? Pics showing this would be great. Your pump is cheap but I don't know how I can attach to my PVC pipe and have it still be secure enough to stick inside & was a keg.
The Harbor Freight pump I have came with about 15 different screw on attachments for the discharge. Just take the attachment you are going to use into Home Depot and make sure it fits the PVC attachment you're going to use. I'm on travel so can't post any pics this week.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:17 AM   #43
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How long are you guys running oxiclean solution through the pump to clean the kegs?

Thinking of building something similar but with copper and brass parts. I usually sanitize my kegs by filling with water and oxiclean and leaving overnight. Cleans everything fine (and sanitizes to boot).

Never have figured out what the min contact time for oxiclean is but I do know when I filled my kegs last I ran into a pinhole leak and had to grab a dirty keg to transfer beer from the leaky one. Filled with oxiclean and hot water for an hour. Didn't make it shiny but nothing got infected. (Due to circumstances beyond my control I had to risk it).

Going to use my march pump. Wondering also how best to make the holder so the keg doesn't fall over when I am out of the room. (Murphys law is strictly enforced around here it seems!) Might have to leave it running for hours to properly wash a dirty keg. Trying to reduce water wastage here.

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Old 05-31-2012, 04:30 AM   #44
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Forget the March Pump. One of the small ones from Harbor Freight works well and the simple fact that these are a little messy means in the middle of the garage on on the driveway. I actually have 2 but one with just connected to a garden hose. I run PBW for about 15 minutes then I move over and rinse with tap water on the lawn. I also use the tap water one on brew days for a pre rinse before cleaning my MLT and Brew Kettle after brewing. I also built one out a old dishwasher but it takes up too much room. I use them to clean everything (Kegs, Conicals, MLT, Carboys, you name it)

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Old 05-31-2012, 01:58 PM   #45
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I have built one of these out of a HF dirty water pump a few years ago, forget which model. However, I have used it for the last 2 years without a hiccup. There have been times where I leave it on for a few hours at a time, if I'm doing something else and forget about it. The water gets pretty darn hot ~ 130* or so I'd say. I use it for cleaning carboys, kegs, and my faucets.

It usually cleans my kegs in 10 minutes or so, but sometimes the carboys take longer to clean if they have a nice krausen ring. Sometimes I'll need to change the oxyclean solution. The great thing about it is I can clean 3 carboys, and a few kegs in an hour or two if need be, while doing something else.

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Old 06-19-2012, 02:22 AM   #46
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I was just thinking about this kind of thing earlier today. My idea was to try a short rigid pipe with a semi flexible hose on the end that would allow a similar (soft) spray head to whip about for added agitation.

In my estimation, heat isn't necessary to get a good clean. It is more about chemical sanitation and mechanical scrubbing.

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Old 06-24-2012, 09:02 PM   #47
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Do you really need a rotating ball or nozzle of any kind at the tip?

Why not just an open pipe blasting water at the top? I would think the water would spread at the top and run down the walls of carboys, cornies, and sankes enough to get the job done.

Any thoughts?

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Old 06-24-2012, 09:24 PM   #48
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Do you really need a rotating ball or nozzle of any kind at the tip?

Why not just an open pipe blasting water at the top? I would think the water would spread at the top and run down the walls of carboys, cornies, and sankes enough to get the job done.

Any thoughts?
I'm not sure if I would draw the line at "need." It is a strong word. Is it more effective and efficient? Yes.
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Old 06-27-2012, 11:16 AM   #49
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I'm looking to take on this project this week and know very little about pumps. Harbor freight seems to by far have the best prices.

My question is... which pump do I get? Keep in mind I would like to use it to drive ice water through my immersion chiller also.

HF has both a 620 GPH and a 1350 GPH. There is only a 15$ difference so I don't mind going stronger. 1350 won't be too much for the chiller, right? If so will 620 be enough for the cleaner?

What do I do?!?!

Here are links to the 2:
35$ 620 gph http://www.harborfreight.com/620-gph...ump-68393.html
50$ 1350 gph http://www.harborfreight.com/16-hors...ump-68422.html

Thanks,
Corey

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Old 06-28-2012, 06:24 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by smittygouv30 View Post
I'm looking to take on this project this week and know very little about pumps. Harbor freight seems to by far have the best prices.

My question is... which pump do I get? Keep in mind I would like to use it to drive ice water through my immersion chiller also.

HF has both a 620 GPH and a 1350 GPH. There is only a 15$ difference so I don't mind going stronger. 1350 won't be too much for the chiller, right? If so will 620 be enough for the cleaner?

What do I do?!?!

Here are links to the 2:
35$ 620 gph http://www.harborfreight.com/620-gph...ump-68393.html
50$ 1350 gph http://www.harborfreight.com/16-hors...ump-68422.html

Thanks,
Corey
It depends on what you're trying to achieve. If you're just trying to cascade water down a carboy, then any cheap pump will do. If you're trying to achieve a strong impingement force, then you'll want to look at the PSI rating (15-30) of the pump. Flow rate (GPM or GPH) through an unrestricted hose is much less important in this scenario, which is how most of the sump pumps are quoted. If your flow rate is too high, you're going to have issues because the water/cleaning solution isn't going to flow out of the opening fast enough to recirculate, or the back pressure created by the water not draining fast enough will considerably slow down the water flow through the pump. Maybe someone else can comment on that because I don't use a sump pump in my setup. I use the pump listed here in my build.
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