Keezer collar placement

tomwirsing · 06-11-2009, 02:24 PM

Why does everyone seem to attach their keezer collar to the lid?

I imagine there's a good reason, but I haven't figured it out. It would seem that it could be attached to the base. This would make lifting the lid much easier as you wouldn't have to raise the weight of the collar and if taps are mounted, the hoses wouldn't get in the way.

The only downside I see is that things would have to be lifted a bit higher to get tehm in and out.

If there is a reason for attaching it to the lid, could it be made in two pieces, so that most of the keezer goes up with the lid, butthe portion where taps are located remains down with the base?

**Bobby_M** · 06-11-2009, 02:38 PM

You've got it all wrong. 95% of the builds attach the collar to the base. In fact, besides myself, I think only a couple other people attached to the lid. I personally like having my faucets out of the way when I'm changing out kegs. YMMV. There's a very real chance you'll hit a faucet handle and either break it off or open it and pour beer while you have a 50 pound keg in your hands.

TheMan · 06-11-2009, 02:44 PM

You could always place the faucets on a side that you will not be loading kegs from. I've seen many people do this to avoid the exact situation bobby described.

**masonsjax** · 06-11-2009, 03:16 PM

I put my collar (10") on the lid, well actually, I built a new lid altogether, but same difference. It's a smaller keezer, ~5 cuft i think, so the weight isn't too bad. The spring loaded hinges have no problem holding it up without help. Like Bobby, I didn't want to risk damaging the faucets/shanks. Additionally, it's easier to lift kegs in without having to clear a tall collar, and personally, I like the look better.

**david_42** · 06-11-2009, 03:31 PM

My keezer's collar attaches to the base. I put the taps on the side to avoid whacking the handles. The extra lines go over to the conditioning cabinet, which is kept at 50-55F.

**IrregularPulse** · 06-11-2009, 03:35 PM

I think the main reason as described is to eliminate the change at smacking a shank when loading/unloading. Mine is attached to the lid but I have a tap box and plan on rebuilding to lighten and simplify.

OMJ · 06-11-2009, 05:24 PM

I plan on attaching mine to the lid when I have the time to make it ffor the reasons already stated and its nice to have the beer lines move out of the way when you open the lid a lot less clutter in there to avoid when lifting a keg in.

**ShortSnoutBrewing** · 06-11-2009, 05:38 PM

In regards to the hoses getting in the way with the collar attached to the lid, easily solved with some cable P clamps. Attach to the underside of the lid towards the back and the tubing stays out of the way.

**masonsjax** · 06-11-2009, 05:51 PM

Yup, that's what I did. The cable clips work very well. My keezer is still under construction, although, since it's functioning, work on it has slowed. The lid is finished though, and I snapped some pics of it in it's current state last night. I plan to start a new thread about my build, which I'll link to here if I remember.

**bad coffee** · 06-13-2009, 01:26 AM

I attached to the lid. Up and away go everything when I need to get into my keez.

I'm 6'2" and have no problem lifting a keg in and out of the keezer. But I am a klutz, which means sooner or later I'd be shearing off a line somewhere, and dispensing 5 gals of beer on the floor.

B