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View Poll Results: Attach collar to the lid or to the top of the chest freezer?
Attach to the lid 49 39.20%
Attach to the top of the chest freezer 76 60.80%
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Old 08-29-2008, 04:14 PM   #1
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Default Keezer collar build - Attach to lid or attach to body?

I finally got my chest freezer, and I'm planning to build the collar this next week. I've watched Bobby_M's video several times and I really like the idea of having the collar attached to the lid... but I'm really not as adept with woodworking and DIY projects as he clearly is. I don't own a miter saw, so I will probably have the wood pieces cut at Home Depot. Part of me also doesn't want to drill into the lid, remove the seal, or figure out how to securely attach the collar to the lid.

If I were to put the collar on the lid, could I just attach the hinges using the top holes of where the hinges were originally? In other words, I'll drill two more holes into the collar, attach the top of the hinges, and attach the bottom part of the hinges to the top holes of where the hinges used to be. If I was going to attach the collar to the base, I'm assuming I would have to drill 4 new holes into the collar.

I'm still confused on how to securely attach the collar to the lid though... Opinions welcomed.

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Old 08-29-2008, 04:25 PM   #2
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Sure sucks to have to lift the kegs over the collar, but it's sure nice to have the intended weight on the lid and hinges.

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Old 08-29-2008, 06:06 PM   #3
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Attach to the lid. It is far easier to load and unload the keezer.

check out my build: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/keezer-build-76879/

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Old 08-29-2008, 06:12 PM   #4
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Those hinges are stronger than you think. They can hold alot. The lids on those freezers are nothing anyway. The strong hinges are to ensure a good seal not necessarily to support the weight of the original lid.

I attached to the lid so I had better access to inside of the freezer and lifting kegs over the edge. Moisture CAN be a problem, but there are many posts discussing how to deal with it from compact dehumidifiers to Damp-Rid, but you will more than likely want to wipe it out every so often anyway. Like when you change kegs.

For these reasons, I like the collar on the lid so it gets out of the way. I'd hate to lift a keg over the edge and hit one of the shanks and damage it.

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Old 08-29-2008, 06:56 PM   #5
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How is moisture a problem in these situations? Does it damage the collar, or any of the equipment, or the lid? I do have to manually defrost my freezer every once in a while, but I was unaware of any additional equipment I would have to buy to keep it from not having moisture in there.

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Old 08-29-2008, 06:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tankard View Post
How is moisture a problem in these situations? Does it damage the collar, or any of the equipment, or the lid? I do have to manually defrost my freezer every once in a while, but I was unaware of any additional equipment I would have to buy to keep it from not having moisture in there.
Pick up one of these and you will be fine
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Old 08-29-2008, 07:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigKahuna View Post
Sure sucks to have to lift the kegs over the collar, but it's sure nice to have the intended weight on the lid and hinges.
What do you mean by "intended weight" ?
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Old 08-29-2008, 07:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billtzk View Post
What do you mean by "intended weight" ?
he means the weight that the manufacturer intended to have supported by the hinges, i.e. just the weight of the lid.
My hinges are supporting the weight of the lid, plus 15 feet of 2x6s, 4 shanks, 4 perlick taps, a gas manifold and ~15 feet of beer line. not exactly what Kenmoore had in mind. However, they hold up just fine. Once I life the lid assembly past ~60 degrees, the hinges hold all the weight no problem.
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Old 08-29-2008, 07:21 PM   #9
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Quick question, somewhat related to the topic. When you drill holes through the collar for the gas lines, temperature controller probe, etc, how do you weather seal these without gluing the tubes in there permanently? Do you make the holes JUST small enough so that the tubes go through?

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Old 08-29-2008, 07:23 PM   #10
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i drilled as tight a hole as possible and then put a thick bead of caulk around the tube/probe/etc. on the inside and outside. It seals well, but if you ever needed to remove it, it wouldn't be an issue.

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