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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Improved boiling on the stovetop!
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:10 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
Wrap the pot with this first:
http://www.infraredheaters.com/insulati.htm

hold it with a little masking tape...
then spray it all down with some 3M Super 88 adhesive and carefully wrap aluminum flashing around it like this stuff:
http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/27...ng-252320.aspx

You could probably figure out some kind of closure method that would allow removal for cleaning the pot. Snaps maybe, or short machine screws/nuts. Think of the thing as a jacket for your pot.

I'm likely going this route to insulate my keggle based HLT and MLT and I want it to handle a raging direct flame if necessary. The cermamic batting is rated to something like 2300ºF.

I also like this stuff but I haven't received an answer as to it's durability in an exposed installation situation:
http://www.avsind.com/insulation.html
Having blacksmithed and built my own forge, durablanket is the dog's nuts of insulation. Imagine a fire so hot that half inch rebar will heat until glowing bright orange in about 4 minutes, and yet you can hold your hand on the outside of the forge body without burning yourself.

Yeah, it's that good.

You'd probably only need about 2 running feet of durablanket, which is pretty cheap. If you want to go hog-wild and cost isn't an issue, you would make the sleeve a little (maybe 1/8th of an inch) larger than needs be and then slide it off of the pot. Then you take ITC-9000 and coat the inside of the sleeve, and let it dry for a few days. ITC-9000 is an industrial refractory coating, and is 98% efficient in reflecting (not absorbing, it's not an insulator, it's a reflector) all IR. It's about 35 bucks a pint, and you'd use most of the pint in the project, so as I said, if you wanted to be hog wild and cost wasn't an issue it'd work fantastically.
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:46 AM   #32
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I'm trying to full boil on a gas stove and I've hit the same 'simmer-no-boil' point. Did the thermo-tec (or the durablanket) work out for you, Flyguy?

If not I guess I'm looking at electrocuting myself while building a heatstick. Outdoors just isn't an option where I am so it's that or stick with two pot boils.

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Old 06-24-2008, 02:05 AM   #33
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I'm going to try to cover the bottom and top of the 180° aluminum insulation stuff with aluminum roof flashing, and tape that together with with aluminum tape. I dont think I have ever written aluminum so many times in one sentence. It *should* help out, time will tell.

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Old 06-24-2008, 03:59 AM   #34
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I tried out this setup with an electric stove, and what I did was folded up tinfoil to cover the bottom 3 inces or so inside and out on the bottom, I also rolled up tin foil into "sticks" and line the side of the pot with around 4 of them between the sides and wrapped reflectix. The idea is to keep the reflectix from direct contact with the hot sides of the pot, and allow some air to keep it from going over 180F.

Only did one full boil with it, but it seemed to have come through it OK, I may bump up the number of sticks to 6 or so, and also put a upper wrap of tinfoil on the top to make it easy to clean if I have a boil over.

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Old 06-24-2008, 01:21 PM   #35
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hey folks: I have recently 'studied' ultralight weight backpacking stoves. They have done the most w/ the least. Below is an example of a stove using a "cone" to enclose the flame/stove AND pot. This looks like an easy gas or electric stove top solution. I would think a thin piece of aluminum/cooper/ss flashing would work. Make some air holes in the bottom and narrow the cone as it nears the top encasing all of the heat. I believe they decreased the time it took to boil water in half. The Caldera cone in the link is one of the best examples. I shall play and around with this at the next stovetop brewing day. Charlie
http://www.traildesigns.com/products01.html

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Old 06-24-2008, 02:34 PM   #36
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I shall play and around with this at the next stovetop brewing day. Charlie
http://www.traildesigns.com/products01.html

Keep us posted, I'd be interested in your results.
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Old 06-24-2008, 03:56 PM   #37
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The cone idea would also be interesting to try with an outdoor propane/natural gas cooker, but I don't want to side-track this thread. If I try it out I'll start one about it.

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Old 06-24-2008, 04:11 PM   #38
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Hey Balto Charlie, I'm giving the chimmney idea a juryrigged shot right now (I'm taking the day off from life to make a sweet stout).
Just using tinfoil wrapped in a cone around the gas burner and base of the pot with small air channels at the top and a gap at the bottom. So far it's got 5 gallons up to a, lid-on, hard boil which wasn't possible before. I think you've got something there. I'd really like to hear how it works for you using better equipment.

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Old 06-24-2008, 04:23 PM   #39
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I know that in BTP (that's beer tools pro for those who don't know), they have you calibrate the effective BTU/KWH of your burner by putting a measured volume of water in the kettle and timing how long it takes to get a 18ºF temp rise. It would be nice to do it twice with/without the side cone. I think a converted Sanke is somewhat already doing this due to the bottom skirt but I don't doubt an added benefit of the cone. Ideally it would go all the way from the top of the kettle (where it touches the sides) all the way down passed the bottom but not far enough to block the air intake. You def want a place for the combustion gasses to escape the cone though.

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Old 06-25-2008, 06:48 AM   #40
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Ok... Here's the dealy. I just got a new 40qt stock pot in and successfully boiled 6 gallons of 1.050 wort with it on a crappy gas range in a 750sqft apartment. I made up a little wrap thingy of my own and it held up GREAT!

So I got this insulation stuff off Ebay, but apparently it can only hold up to 180°F. When I got it I was bummed cause there was what looked like weak plastic on the inside. I knew this would not hold up to any kind of direct flame so I made a Lowe's trip with the intent to armor up. Cost was 19.99 and there's enough for AT LEAST another pot.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...223072567&rd=1

So I grabbed a 14"x10' roll of aluminum flashing from the roofing section (over by lumber). I also got a roll of aluminum backed tape from the duct section. That was like 13 bucks or something like that. There's an enormous amount of tape and enough flashing to make two pots.

I got back home and made two wraps around the pot with the insulation stuff. I used the aluminum tape on each one individually and worked them together with the seam staggered. This should be a little stronger and hold shape better than just wrapping it up and taping the ends together. I measured and cut out a 14x49" long piece of flashing. I folded over the bottom 4 inches of the flashing making a 10x49" piece doubled on one end. I used scissors to cut the 4" section perpendicularly every ~3" so you can still bend the flashing. I wrapped the 4" sections up around the inside of the pot, taped the inside edge to the insulation. I worked on one little part at a time until I made it all the way around taped. Then I went around the top, making sure that all of the inside insulation was covered with tape. This should give a little added protection for the insulation. I went down the outside edge of the flashing with the tape and called it a day. So its basically two wraps of insulation, the outside completely covered with metal, the inside lower 4" covered with metal, and the inside top 6" covered with aluminum tape. Check it out.




The sleeve fits pretty snug but I found that the heat loosens it up a little so I first tried taping it up. The tape works ok, but it wasn't safe enough to walk away from. I had the tape come off once and the sleeve got some direct flame for 20 seconds. See the scorched section on the bottom there. SO. I just cut a little piece of scrap flashing and make a little prop to physically hold up the sleeve. Its simple and very effective.





I'm not sure how well it worked cause ive never boiled without it. It took 6 gallons of wort from ~160°F to 210°F in 25 minutes on a gas stove. Not too shabby.

There are still improvements to be made!! There is a lot of heat loss off the edges of the pot where the burners are. I'm thinking about getting some angle iron from the depot that will stand up to direct flame and use that to block the flames from shooting out the side. That should improve overall heating and prevent scorching of the pot.

enough rambling for now...

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~~~~~~~~~~~___//_ ____________________________~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~_/ [][]| | /```\/```\/```\/```\/```\ |~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~_/_______| |____NOW TRIPLE HOPPED______|~~~~~~~~~~
~~~___/[_]| 00 /| | \,,,/\,,,/\,,,/\,,,/\,,,/ |~~~~~~~~~~
~~|___|___|___/_| |___________________________|~~~~~~~~~~
~~|=(*)[________]==(*)(*)=| \________/=(*)(*)=|~~~~~~~~~~

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