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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > If you use a sanke as a fermentor I have a question about racking/collecting yeas
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Old 07-06-2009, 04:12 AM   #1
ramz7887
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Default If you use a sanke as a fermentor I have a question about racking/collecting yeas

Take a look at this idea:

Morebeer's Brew Chat • View topic - Transfer from Fermenter to Kegs and 2L bottle

I think I'm gonna try doing something like this for my primary, to secondary, to serving keg. In order to have a semi-closed system. Do you have any tips on how to harvest yeast though out of a sanke?

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Old 07-06-2009, 01:29 PM   #2
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You could probably swirl the yeast cake and remove it via the racking cane after the beer is removed by lowering the cane into the yeast / trub.


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Old 07-07-2009, 08:18 PM   #3
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I'm working on a SS sanke to fermenter conversion. It is based on a 2" Tri-Clover clamp (they clamp to the top of an average Sanke very well) It will have a 3/8" "Linear Racking Arm" that is vertically adjustable, a built-in thermowell and a blow-off port. which will be a 3/8"MPT nipple that you can attach a hose fitting or valve too. I have material being machined right now and should have a prototype next week.

I'm leery of having a fitting on there for the purpose of pressurizing the keg though, especially without a pressure release valve. You could, however, use the blow-off fitting to move the beer out the racking cane.

For transfers, you'll just raise the racking arm/cane a few inches, start your transfer and then lower it until it just picks up some sediment, then back off. Once you've completed the transfer you could swirl the balance of what's left, drop the cane to the bottom and collect yeast.

I'll post some picts once I get the first couple welded up.

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Old 07-07-2009, 08:45 PM   #4
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I just use the original spear with a standard tap to transfer the beer and remove the yeast . The spear is just dropped in as there is really very little pressure used you don't need the lock ring as the tap holds it in and seals it . Hook up the tap ,transfer the beer take the tap off pull the spear add 2-3 quarts of sterilized water swirl the keg a few times and let it sit 20-30 minutes drop the spear in again as before and start removing just yeast in essence I washed the yeast . Great results so far




edit : as I am lowering the spear in I let it go about 4-6 inches before it seats. This in effect causes the trub to be pushed away from the spear . let it sit an hour or two start the transfer . I use clear tubing and there is no trub just beer . I was going to cut the tube but Wortmonger advised me to do it this way no wasted beer on the bottom

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Old 07-07-2009, 08:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by springer View Post
I just use the original spear with a standard tap to transfer the beer and remove the yeast . The spear is just dropped in as there is really very little pressure used you don't need the lock ring as the tap holds it in and seals it . Hook up the tap ,transfer the beer take the tap off pull the spear add 2-3 quarts of sterilized water swirl the keg a few times and let it sit 20-30 minutes drop the spear in again as before and start removing just yeast in essence I washed the yeast . Great results so far




edit : as I am lowering the spear in I let it go about 4-6 inches before it seats. This in effect causes the trub to be pushed away from the spear . let it sit an hour or two start the transfer . I use clear tubing and there is no trub just beer . I was going to cut the tube but Wortmonger advised me to do it this way no wasted beer on the bottom
I didn't realize the tap would hold the spear in, this is very interesting since my keg (dis)assembly skills are somewhat lacking. I'm sure if I kept practicing I would get better at it, but I've never been willing to try it on a full keg.
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Old 07-07-2009, 09:36 PM   #6
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Actually it works if you leave the tap on the spear at all times the tabs hold the spear in I just put 2 o rings on it and at 4 psi it hasn't come out or leaked . Mine is a 50 liter that kinda screws in

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Old 07-08-2009, 06:21 PM   #7
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that's cool I would like to see pictures. And that you can use the spear without screwing it in, I'm surprised it works with the pressure. I guess since the pressure is only 2-4 psi and a sanke is usually a lot higher psi.

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Old 07-09-2009, 09:04 PM   #8
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None of my sankes are the screw in kind so I did a dry test today to see how it would be. Doesn't seem like it will work good enough unless the little bit of pressure forces the spear up. I'll put some water in a keg this week and see if I can push it out without having co2/water blow by the spear.

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Old 07-09-2009, 09:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bokonon View Post
None of my sankes are the screw in kind so I did a dry test today to see how it would be. Doesn't seem like it will work good enough unless the little bit of pressure forces the spear up. I'll put some water in a keg this week and see if I can push it out without having co2/water blow by the spear.
Sanke spears all go in with a little twist line up the tab and turn counter clockwise about 1/4 turn if you double up the o ring it will be tight if still no good these are great

snap ring
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by springer View Post
Sanke spears all go in with a little twist line up the tab and turn counter clockwise about 1/4 turn if you double up the o ring it will be tight if still no good these are great

snap ring
Never even looked at those o rings before. Next time I'm in the garage I'll take a look at em. Do they come off of the spears? If so I have a few extra I can try, otherwise I'll have to go out and buy some more.

I know some people that use those snap rings in all their kegs and really like them. I always forget about ordering them when I place an order with mmc, I really need to keep a shopping list around so I don't forget next time
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