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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > If I burn down the house, SWMBO wont let me brew...
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:28 PM   #11
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If you can find a junk PC, you could use the power supply and it may even have both fans you need.
You could just use bi-metal t-stats, should save you some $. I'm not sure whether or not you may burn the anticipator out of the thermostats or not. Thats a pretty minimal load, and they wont always be on together, I think Id go for it.
You may need to maintain batteries with a digital.
Most thermostats are not voltage sensitive.

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Old 01-17-2008, 11:47 PM   #12
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I thought about bi-metal thermostats, but I was woried about temperature range in case I decide to lager in this. I think there are digitial thermostats that run off of batteries, and just act as a switch, but knowing me, I would forget to check them for a weekend-week-month.... Hence why I am trying to wire everything in.

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Old 01-18-2008, 12:26 AM   #13
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Just checking some of the beginning links. Not so sure about replacing ice tubs in a fermentation box. Sounds like a pita.
I have thought it might be handy in summer and would also up my quality if I could maintain a 68 degree temperature. Unfortunately a freezer wont fit into the stairway leading to my basement.
I had the idea of using a bar fridges with a freezer in the top to pipe cold air from the freezer to the fermentation chamber using fans controlled by a thermostat.

Not sure if this might work?
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Old 01-18-2008, 12:36 AM   #14
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you would have to find a way to do a return air supply to the freezer otherwise you would get a vaccum on one side and pressure on the other....., i think there is a thread about that around here somewhere.... I thought f somthing like that, but that limited where I could put this thing. Instead I am going to beef up the insulation and hopefully cut down on the ice changes to once or twice a week or so.

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Old 01-18-2008, 01:06 AM   #15
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just make sure you size your power source large enough. The rest looks fine.

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Old 01-18-2008, 04:15 AM   #16
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awsome, thats what I eeded to hear, thanks.

When I actuallly start building this thing, I will be sure to post that.

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Old 01-18-2008, 11:25 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathweed
yes, PC power supplies are 12V, I did think about that briefly because I do have one just lying around. The problem with one of those are the thermostats run of a 24V heating/cooling system. If someone knows of a 12V thermostat, that would make alot of things easier....

As for the thermostats handling the amperage, I dont know, but I am glad you mentioned it. THe online specs didnt mention that, but when I get a thermostat, I will take that into consideration. The transformer i was looking at only ran at 1 amp, and the fans would be 2 280mA loads in paralell, so..... I don't know...
Well, your selected thermostat "Works with most millivolt to 24 volt heating and cooling system." [sic] So I shouldn't worry overmuch about the voltage if you're considering using 12v parts. (Tangent: Aren't computer power supplies 5VDC?)

Amperage, I got no info, and that's really important. But the manufacturer's website might be of some assistance. Here's the site for the model you chose from Home Despot:

http://www.ritetemp-thermostats.com/8029B.html

Have fun!

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Old 01-18-2008, 12:51 PM   #18
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thanks Bob, I will be trying to locate one of the thermostats this weekend and play with it a bit. Does anyone know what the amperage is on a heating/cooling 24V circut? that may answer our questions in a roundabout way...

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Old 01-18-2008, 12:54 PM   #19
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ok wait, quick google search showed some other simmalar thermostats showed amp ratings between .18 and .75, this means I would be good with a 1 amp circut, or would I need something a little more since I will have 2 in paralell?

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Old 01-18-2008, 01:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathweed
ok wait, quick google search showed some other simmalar thermostats showed amp ratings between .18 and .75, this means I would be good with a 1 amp circut, or would I need something a little more since I will have 2 in paralell?
If your draw is 560mA, You would need a minimum of .56A rating, in most situations, you'd not want to accept the minimum. You should shoot for one in the .75 range.
It doesn't matter what your transformer(or PC supply) can produce as what it actually produces is determined by load. You may be cheaper out to just get a couple of relays and the cheaper thermostats.
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