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**GilaMinumBeer** · 01-25-2010, 01:56 PM

I was gifted a piar of old model Norgren regulators. The two are ganged together by a brass nipple which has, over the years, siezed up tighter that a guy getting a proctal exam.

I have tried heat with a propane torch, WD-40, heat then WD-40, cleaning with vinegar, and all manner of wrenches with it mounted in a vise.

The union has now been rounded over from all the wrenching and the only thing that can get a bite on it is a vise-lock wrench but, even that spins eventually. The danged nipple won't budge.

Any suggestion on how to separate this thing?

jspence1 · 01-25-2010, 02:07 PM

you are turning it the right way, some have left hand threads. Just thought I'd ask

**GilaMinumBeer** · 01-25-2010, 02:21 PM

Yeah. I thought of that too. Won't budge either way.

Retarded_Penguin_Brewing · 01-25-2010, 02:53 PM

some stuff we use out here on the strykers to free up rusted bolts is called liquid wrench and works pretty well. spray it down and let it soak in a bit, then clamp down with your vise grips as tight as you can and put a cheater pipe on em and crank the f*** out of it.

**GilaMinumBeer** · 01-25-2010, 03:27 PM

Ha. I forgot about that stuff. My father swore by it.

Worth a try I suppose. Plus, I have to swing by autoparts store on the way home for headlamps anyways.

david_42 · 01-25-2010, 04:30 PM

A screw extractor might help or drill it out. If it's copper, take a pipe reamer and grind it.

**GilaMinumBeer** · 01-25-2010, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by david_42

A screw extractor might help or drill it out. If it's copper, take a pipe reamer and grind it.

Brass. Maybe brass coated copper. I have thought about, worst case, cutting the nipple between them and flattening it (if I can) to get a better grip. Or maybe just to get a pipe wrench on it.

Trouble is, the reg bodies are brass/copper too which means they are soft and easily mangled neyond use. Learned that from an experience in trying to remove a mangled tank stem.

jspence1 · 01-25-2010, 04:52 PM

When I rebuilt my reg some ass hat had put loctite in the threads I had to run a tap through it when I finally got it apart. I was lucky that it was the end that attaches to the co2 tank with the flats for a wrench. I did have to give it a few good wacks with a dead blow hammer to get it to move

**GilaMinumBeer** · 01-25-2010, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jspence1

When I rebuilt my reg some ass hat had put loctite in the threads I had to run a tap through it when I finally got it apart. I was lucky that it was the end that attaches to the co2 tank with the flats for a wrench. I did have to give it a few good wacks with a dead blow hammer to get it to move

Yeah. I am thinking that ios what happened here too. which is why I tried the heat.

I know some vendors that use thread lockl when they "gang" their regulator assemblies. Even have a secondary regulator that has a thread locked plug in teh pass through port. I guess it makes sense to avoid potential leaks but, dang.

Ichthy · 01-25-2010, 05:15 PM

PB Blaster. Let 'er soak for an hour and reapply. It works really well. (at least for rust)