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Old 05-14-2012, 12:26 PM   #1
milesvdustin
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Default Got a free keg!

So I got a free sanke keg from a coworker. I intend on cutting the top off and making a boil kettle out of it. I was looking for experienced suggestions on what type of valve setup to use. I want to be able to whirlpool and eventually make it an electric kettle. Thinking a valve on bottom and top with 90 degree fittings and dip tubes from bargain fittings to make it happen.

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Old 05-14-2012, 12:40 PM   #2
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I just finished my keggle builds earlier this year. I put two 1/2" couplings in. One at the bottom for draining and one at the top for recirculating. I also added a sight glass and thermometer while the welder had it all. I got most everything from Bobby M, it was all great! I use the cam lock disconnects. I haven't had any problem with them, although I think the standard connects that are like the ones on an air compressor would be easier to take on and off. Like I said, I'm not complaining about them, they might just take .5 seconds longer.
Anyways, what are you using it for? Boil kettle, mash tun? I'm assuming boil kettle. I have a false bottom on mine, it seems to be kind of handy. It generally stops most of my pellet hop sediment. I got it from Midwest. Is actually shaped for a sanke keg, so it fits nicely, and fairly priced.
If you have some basic soldering skills (REALLY basic), I'd save some money and make your dip tube yourself. It took me like 6 minutes to make all of mine and they work great. Here are some pics of my stuff I did. I haven't routed the recirculating/whirlpool pipe yet, but it will basically direct the output along the wall of the kettle. I've just been too busy loving my system to want to do more work!


image-1149037614.jpg



image-1435374312.jpg



image-2342367199.jpg

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Old 05-14-2012, 01:07 PM   #3
milesvdustin
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Yes, a boil kettle. I was thinking a whirlpool setup as opposed to a false bottom. I was going to do the weldless fittings instead of the soldered couplings I think. Soldered couplings will cost more with the tool in the long run I think.

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Old 05-14-2012, 04:34 PM   #4
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if the bottom is concave, we've had good luck with just a side pickup tube after whirlpooling. Hardly any hops/trub come thru as it all settles into the center via gravity/whirlpool. And we're just using the "stir" whirlpool method!

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Old 05-14-2012, 05:56 PM   #5
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Yeah, since the bottom will be concave, you'll need the pickup tube to be at the side if you aren't doing a false bottom. As you can see, my pickup tube is directly in the center, so whirlpooling doesn't help me that much, I terms of leaving sediment behind. I'm not entirely proficient in the fittings offered, but I think the weldless couplings are just 1/2" couplings, and you still need to add the pickup tube. Correct me if I'm wrong.
So your coupling would be weldless in the side of your sanke, then the pickup tube will screw into the inside of it. So you could get a 1/2 threaded copper piece, then connect a bent piece of 1/2" copper tube that reaches the bottom of the sanke from there.

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Old 05-14-2012, 05:58 PM   #6
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Actually, I just realized I posted an old photo. Here is the inside of the sanke with the pickup tube I made. The stainless one that was there before didn't seal with the compression fitting, and I didn't want to spend an extra $20 to get the adapter. Here is the HLT, with no false bottom, you could do this with the pickup tube that is just closer to the wall of the kettle

image-673272141.jpg

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Old 05-15-2012, 12:44 PM   #7
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I like the copper compression fitting idea. I have a bunch of 3/8" ID soft copper laying around I can make dip tubes from. I am going to do the weldless kits and instead of a coupler on the inside, use a 90 degree elbow then the dip tube from there. I can make them so I can whirlpool with a pump pretty easily, and probably much cheaper than buying the stainless fittings online.

Any tips on hammering a dent out of the bottom ring? It has a dent on it and the keg is slightly tippy so to speak. I was thinking big hammer?

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