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dukes7779 · 03-07-2012, 01:48 PM

I've seen a lot of people on here say that electric is a lot cheaper than propane. However, when I keep my house is definitely a lot cheaper to heat with propane than electric heat. What gives?

Cpt_Kirks · 03-07-2012, 01:56 PM

Your house is not full of water with heating elements exposed in it.

**wilserbrewer** · 03-07-2012, 02:08 PM

With an electric kettle using an immersed heating element, most of the energy is utilized to heat the wort. With gas, most of the energy is heating the neighborhood, for this reason electric is more efficient and cheaper.

**Homercidal** · 03-07-2012, 04:53 PM

And it's quieter. This may not be a big deal to some people, but frankly I'm tired of listening to the sound of a small jet engine during half of the brewday.

And it makes automation and control a bit cheaper and easier.

ScottSingleton · 03-07-2012, 04:58 PM

For me while it may be cheaper to use electric elements for me it's a matter of availability. I can't get a 220V feed out to the garage without a major remodel. I've looked at 120V elements and it seems they top out around 2k watts which I feel isn't substantial enough to quickly heat up 10 gallon batches.

Of course I could be missing something here -- but I think if you're doing larger batches you're committing to 220V and unfortunately I just can't get that wire up into the garage.

**starman** · 03-07-2012, 05:40 PM

You have to look at pros and cons of each in context. My homes electrical service is probably 60A conductors supplying a maxed out 100A panel. Dropping a couple grand + on a service upgrade isn't feasible. Luckily my patio has a natural gas hookup so I'm still able to avoid the pain of propane tanks.

Cpt_Kirks · 03-07-2012, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottSingleton

For me while it may be cheaper to use electric elements for me it's a matter of availability. I can't get a 220V feed out to the garage without a major remodel. I've looked at 120V elements and it seems they top out around 2k watts which I feel isn't substantial enough to quickly heat up 10 gallon batches.

Of course I could be missing something here -- but I think if you're doing larger batches you're committing to 220V and unfortunately I just can't get that wire up into the garage.

I use two 120V 2000W elements, each plugged into separate 20A circuits in the garage. It takes about 20 minutes to heat my strike or sparge water, and about 25 minutes to bring 13 gallons of 150*F wort to a rolling boil.

5500W would be a little faster, but I'm not ready to climb that hill yet.

ScottSingleton · 03-07-2012, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks

I use two 120V 2000W elements, each plugged into separate 20A circuits in the garage. It takes about 20 minutes to heat my strike or sparge water, and about 25 minutes to bring 13 gallons of 150*F wort to a rolling boil.

5500W would be a little faster, but I'm not ready to climb that hill yet.

Are your two elements in the same kettle? or are you talking about one in your boil kettle and one in your HLT?

just based on what I read when I started planning I had discounted 120V as an option for an all electric RIMS system just due to the load. I went with a direct-fire assisted RIMS where fire was used to establish temps and the RIMS elements hold the temp.

**wilserbrewer** · 03-07-2012, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottSingleton

Are your two elements in the same kettle? or are you talking about one in your boil kettle and one in your HLT?

just based on what I read when I started planning I had discounted 120V as an option for an all electric RIMS system just due to the load. I went with a direct-fire assisted RIMS where fire was used to establish temps and the RIMS elements hold the temp.

Same as Cpt kirks, I use two 120v 2000w elements in the same kettle....don't discount 120v brewing, with two 20 amp 120v circuits, 10 gallon batches are easily in reach.

Cpt_Kirks · 03-08-2012, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottSingleton

Are your two elements in the same kettle? or are you talking about one in your boil kettle and one in your HLT?

just based on what I read when I started planning I had discounted 120V as an option for an all electric RIMS system just due to the load. I went with a direct-fire assisted RIMS where fire was used to establish temps and the RIMS elements hold the temp.

I have two elements mounted in my HLT, and use two heatsticks for the boil.

However, I have my BK tore down and am in the process of mounting elements in it. The heatsticks will be backups.